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Old 04-20-2011, 01:16 PM   #1
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Default EZ Water Calculator ?

I used the EZ Calc 2.0 for the first time on my last brew because my water was off quite a bit and seems to be affecting my efficiency. I was wondering if someone would mind going over my #'s and let me know if this is correct. The beer I made was awful and tasted like paint thinner. I think I may have just gotten a bug, but I want to make sure it wasn't the water additions before I make another beer.

I added the mash and sparge additions for a total of: 5g Gypsum, 18g Calcium Chloride, 13g Epsom salt. I split up the grams for 10gallons and 7gallons.

watercalc.jpg  
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Old 04-20-2011, 01:33 PM   #2
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I think you went way overboard with the salts. My water is similar to yours, and for beers that light, unless their hop bombs, I would just leave it. Or just get the calcium up to 50ppm or so. Also 8 ozs of saurermalz is a lot imo, that will really add a lot of tartness. I believe you should have dropped your ph with mostly lactic acid.

Take this with a grain of salt as i'm somewhat new with water salts and ph. I do know that my stock water makes very good light colored beers and it's even softer than yours.

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Old 04-20-2011, 01:52 PM   #3
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I am assuming I am using the spreadsheet incorrectly then since I know others use it with good results. Any other pointers to what I am doing wrong would be appreciated. I am planning on brewing this same beer on Friday and don't want to #$@! it up again.

wildwest450 - I may take your advice and just leave the tap water alone except for a chlorine removal.

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:02 PM   #4
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Did you add the salts to the boil kettle, too? If you did, that's a LOT of salts!

Edit- I see you did. That's a ton of CaCl2, and MgS04. I'd leave out the MgS04, and just try getting a nice balanced profile. Actually, looking at your water, I"m jealous! You have nice water to start with. I wouldn't mess with it except maybe a tiny bit of CaCl2 if you need it.

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuth10 View Post
wildwest450 - I may take your advice and just leave the tap water alone except for a chlorine removal.
What type of beer is it?

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:22 PM   #6
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Ok, take this with a grain of salt because I'm fairly new at adjusting water myself. I believe EZ water calculator assumes room temperature for the mash pH estimate. So, the way I've been using the calculator was to shoot for an estimated mash PH of "5.4-5.5" as recommended to me by ajdelange.

Your calculator is showing an estimated mash pH of 5.28 which when at mash temperature would fall even lower. I believe that when the mash pH falls outside of the ideal range (5.2-5.4?), the enzymes take longer to perform conversion. It could be that you mashed for the standard 60 minutes when your actual pH levels would have required longer to perform conversion thus potentially explaining the hit on efficiency.

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Old 04-20-2011, 02:54 PM   #7
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wildwest450 - It is an Oberon clone. 10 gal batch. 21lbs of grain, SRM 3.8

My efficiency was low prior to adding the water additions. After the additions you see in the pic I hit 104% into the boiler according to BS. Not sure how that is possible, but...

Anyway, if I take out all of my additions in EZ 2.0 it said my mash PH will be 5.6 & the calcium, Magnesium and sulfate are all really low. I am pretty confused. Should I not be using this thing at all??? I know it is just a reference and the problem is me not knowing enough about water profiles. I guess I just need to learn more about what additions will do what to the flavors. I am starting to think it was definitely the additions that messed up my beer and not bacteria.

My intent is to use 100% RO water, so I would really like to get this figured out.

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Old 04-20-2011, 03:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smuth10 View Post

My intent is to use 100% RO water, so I would really like to get this figured out.
In that case it's pretty simple. Forget about spreadsheets (for now) and follow the guidelines in the Primer in the Stickies section here. This will get you a good beer first time out. On subsequent brews vary the amounts of gypsum and calcium chloride you add. Doing this is how you learn what ions have which effects. Plug what you do into the spreadsheet(s) as you go to see what they tell you. You will then know what ion profiles do well by a particular beer. At this point you can compare to the published profiles if you like.
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:18 PM   #9
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My water in flint is very close to yours. I can mash pale beers with no mash adjustment at all. I tweak the CL/SO4 ratio in the boil. Un check the box in between the mash salt additions and the sparge additions for calculating. Also, you probably don't need any saurmalz or lactic to hit mash range with that water for beer that light.

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Old 04-20-2011, 04:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a_potter View Post
Also, you probably don't need any saurmalz or lactic to hit mash range with that water for beer that light.
Actually, you probably do. I would vastly prefer that you make sauermalz (or lactic acid) additions based on mash pH readings (made with a meter). In most cases you will find 2 - 3% sauermalz will be required for mash pH ~ 5.4 in a beer with little dark malt content especially if the base malt is a pilsner malt. This is why I recommend it if you don't use a pH meter.
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