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01-25-2013, 09:32 PM
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#551
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[Quote] Acidifying the mash water to intended mash pH effectively reduces its alkalinity to 0. The graph at http://wetnewf.org/pdfs/alkalinity-reduction-with.html (which I originally posted here) shows the percentage alkalinity reduction as a function of target pH and original pH. Just remember that every equivalent of alkalinity removed is replaced my an equivalent of the anion of the acid.
This is what Sierra Nevada is supposedly doing, setting all brewing water to 5.5?
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01-25-2013, 10:05 PM
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#552
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Senior Member
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Location: McLean/Ogden, Virginia/Quebec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NanoMan
Thanks again, AJ. FYI, the link to Alkalinity part I appears to be broken.
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Thanks for the heads up on that. The thing has only been on line a couple of days and I've got lots to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NanoMan
There is a spreadsheet referenced (see a post on 11-12-12). Can you (or anyone) advise what spreadsheet that is? Thanks!
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Probably Bru'n Water or EZ. Fits either.
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01-25-2013, 10:08 PM
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#553
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NanoMan
This is what Sierra Nevada is supposedly doing, setting all brewing water to 5.5?
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Quote from the linked page: "It has been reported that Sierra Nevada, consistent with the idea given here, treats all it's water to pH 5.5 with phosphoric acid. Chico water has average alkalinity of 76 ppm as calcium carbonate and pH which can be as low as 6.5 or as high as 7.9."
It was this rumor that got me thinking about the consequences of doing this. I think it's pretty smart.
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01-25-2013, 10:19 PM
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#554
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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sorry if im off topic but would it be wise to add calcium cloride to poland spring water for a BGSA? It is soft and low in minerals
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01-25-2013, 10:20 PM
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#555
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I really appreciate all of this information and interaction. And to think I actually started down this road because I was trying to achive clarity!! I'm using my pH meter twice as much as my refractometer! i'm using the EZ for my spreadsheet and will continue to report out on my data. The biggest variable seems to be in estimating total water. Very hard to predict how much gets left behind in the tun. You don't know until it's drained. I'm getting better at predicting when to stop adding more sparge water.
Cheers!
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01-25-2013, 10:40 PM
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#556
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Alternate Universe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NanoMan
I really appreciate all of this information and interaction. And to think I actually started down this road because I was trying to achive clarity!! I'm using my pH meter twice as much as my refractometer! i'm using the EZ for my spreadsheet and will continue to report out on my data. The biggest variable seems to be in estimating total water. Very hard to predict how much gets left behind in the tun. You don't know until it's drained. I'm getting better at predicting when to stop adding more sparge water.
Cheers!
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You could just sparge until you hit your boil volume. There is nothing magical about the amount left in the tun.
I have a friend at a brewery that runs wort into the drain that most of us would brew with because all their stuff is high gravity. He would like to let home brewers come in to collect it but it would interfere with their schedule.
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01-25-2013, 11:13 PM
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#557
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[QUOTE=Hermit;4826982]You could just sparge until you hit your boil volume. There is nothing magical about the amount left in the tun.
Wouldn't that make it difficult to approximate the various salt aspects, e.g., SO4-- for IPA, etc.? They would be diluted.
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01-25-2013, 11:35 PM
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#558
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[quote=NanoMan;4827089]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hermit
You could just sparge until you hit your boil volume. There is nothing magical about the amount left in the tun.
Wouldn't that make it difficult to approximate the various salt aspects, e.g., SO4-- for IPA, etc.? They would be diluted.
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The ratios, ppm's. stay the same regardless of volume. I guess if you just want x milligrams in the kettle you could just add it to the kettle.
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01-30-2013, 10:30 PM
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#560
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL
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So I am going to be making my first batch this weekend using RO water and I just wanted to get some clarification what I should add. I will be making an BarleyWine, using 2-row,aromatic, crystal 30 and 80, and some rye. Its for a 5 gallon batch and according to beersmith, I am using 6.66 gallons of strike water and 3.42 gallons of sparge water. Does anyone have any good recommendations on what minerals to add. When it comes to the water adjusting, I am still completely lost.
__________________
Drunken Tortoise Brewery
Primary - Indian Brittish Ale, Belgian Pale, American BarleyWine, Partigyle from BarleyWine.
Secondary - Hibiscus Mead.
Kegged- Slightly Smoked APA,
Dry Irish stout.
Bottled - Rum Oaked Porter.
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