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Oter · 07-31-2012, 02:36 PM

I see, thank you!

**ajdelange** · 07-31-2012, 05:19 PM

It's based on water with low ion content whether you are lucky enough to get it out of the tap because you live in the Pacific north west or NYC (I guess you can't really call someone who is forced to live in NYC lucky but the water is good) on unlucky enough to live where the water is unusable and must be replaced or diluted to the point where is is virtually replaced with RO or otherwise deionized water. There are in between situations where 1:1 or 2:1 dilution can get you to low ion content as defined in the sticky.

TheCheatOSX · 08-03-2012, 01:41 PM

I still can't find this on the Member's Only site. Only 2011 ones are listed. Am I missing something?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mabrungard

The audio from the Water Panel is available on the Members Only portion of the AHA site. Another reason to be an AHA member!

**ajdelange** · 08-03-2012, 02:00 PM

No, you are not missing anything. It has not, AFAIK, been posted nor do I believe it will be. The company that made the recordings makes money by selling these and I expect they will be offered for sale at some point but I don't know when or where.

bullinachinashop · 08-04-2012, 01:42 AM

ajdelange ,
I have had success with the information on the thread and have won many metals, I believe, because of the changes I'm now making.
That being said, I will be brewing a Robust Porter tomorrow and have been told by people smarter than me that the water profile here is great for brewing that style of beer.
I was hoping you might take a look at the profile and see what you think.
I filter my water to remove the chlorine and our water has no chloramines.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Bull
ca 33.3
mg 9
so4 28
na 13
cl 22
hco3 99

The recipe is
11# 2 row
.75#C60
1.25# roast/toast. This will be added to sparge only.
4 oz acidulated.

**ajdelange** · 08-04-2012, 03:25 AM

I expect that will work out fine for you. There is always some risk with a dark beer that the dark malts may contribute more acid that you expect them to and that the pH will drop too low if you include the acid malt. OTOH there is always the risk the pH will be too high without the acid malt. For this reason I'd hold back on the acid malt, check the pH about 15 minutes after dough in (and more frequently than that if you can.) and add the acid malt if it is needed. Next time you brew this beer you will know whether you need it or not.

bullinachinashop · 08-04-2012, 11:46 AM

Without the acid malt, the mash ph calculated out to just under 5.6 which is higher than I want. With the acid, the ph drops into the low 5.4 range.
Adding the dark malts only for the sparge won't have any affect on the ph during the mash, so I left them out of the calculations.
The only thing I was thinking would be to add about 2 grams of gypsum and 4 grams of calcium chloride to bring my ratio more into balance.
Thanks for taking a look.
Bull

**ajdelange** · 08-04-2012, 12:09 PM

I would predict a mash pH of 5.55 but my prediction is based on experience and the calculators are based on models based on experience and in some cases experiment. The problem is that neither my predictions nor the calculators are necessarily accurate in a given situation. As I said, there is risk that without the acid malt you might go too high and without it you might go too low. The only way to resolve the uncertainty is to measure the mash pH with a meter.

When I make stout I don't use acid malt and the pH comes in right around 5.5 - 5.55. That's a wee bit higher than I like too but I don't use acid malt simply because AFAIK the reknowned brewers of that style don't and if you account for the fact that the pH at mash temp is likely to be 5.3 - 5.35 I'm comfortable with that. The bottom line is that the beer comes out fine. But that's what I get - you might get something a little different.

Chloride/sulfate ratios are not really useful. If you want sharp hops, dry hops, use sulfate. If you want to round and sweeten the beer and improve its mouthfeel use chloride. Use these to the extent you want those effects. The ratio will fall where it will fall.

bullinachinashop · 08-04-2012, 01:12 PM

Thanks AJ

**Willum** · 08-09-2012, 03:27 AM

For a few brews I have been diluting my water with 50% distilled water. I have been playing around with ez water, and it seems like diluting my water might not be necessary.

This is my water report:

pH
7.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 157
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.26
Cations / Anions, me/ L2.2 / 2.3

Sodium, Na 21
Potassium, K 1
Calcium, Ca 16
Magnesium, Mg 5
Total Hardness, CaCO3 61
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.2 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 3
Chloride, Cl 42
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 56

Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 46

Total Phosphorus, P 1.06
Total Iron, Fe 0.03

As a test, I created a grist in EZ water of 16lbs of pils, 5 gallons of mash water, and 5 gallons of sparge water (1.25 qt/lb thickness). I used the soft water suggestion in this thread.

10 gallons water: 1tsp total CaCi2 and 8oz (3%) acid malt.

All tap

Calcium Magnesium Sodium Chloride Sulfate Chloride / Sulfate
(Ca ppm) (Mg ppm) (Na ppm) (Cl ppm) (SO4 ppm) Ratio
23 5 21 55 9 6.08

50% distilled 50% tap

Calcium Magnesium Sodium Chloride Sulfate Chloride / Sulfate
(Ca ppm) (Mg ppm) (Na ppm) (Cl ppm) (SO4 ppm) Ratio
15 3 11 34 5 7.50

Can anyone smarter then me, tell me if I am wasting my money diluting my water?