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Old 01-12-2010, 06:47 PM   #21
ryane
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Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
The only way it would be devoid of CO2 is if you pull a vacuum on the carboy. Residual co2 calcs are based on the partial pressure of ambient air.
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This isnt entirely true, Ive brewed many many sours and I think other people will tell you this as well, the problem a lot of times on older (1yr+) sours when priming is to actually carbonate to adequate levels, I understand the CO2 levels are dependent on the partial pressure of the gas in the atmosphere, that henry's law at its simplest, but dissolved co2 is also a function of pH, lower pH = less dissolved CO2, however due to the kpa of co2 species it should be constant below 5.5 and all should be in the form of H2CO3 (forgive me for rambling thinking while i type) so theoretically what you said should be true, however you have to remember that henry's law constants arent exactly constants and things like density pH etc can swing them one way or the other

To be honest I hadnt given much thought to the science basis for it, but maybe I should now....I always had to really think about aqueous CO2 concentrations because of how the gas acts like a weak acid depending on pH

A couple interesting things I found while looking for an answer

http://www.iul-instruments.de/pdf/vitalsensors_2.pdf

http://www.anton-paar.com/001/en/Web...ad/702?clng=en
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:42 PM   #22
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no it forms in response to O2 in the headspace, either keep an airlock on there or like I do, you can put a wood dowel in the rubber stopper to allow small amts of O2 to get to the beer - this isnt particularily necessary though, you dont need a pellicle to sour a beer
Hey Ryane, dumb question...the wood dowel, should it be long enough to be submerged into the beer?
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:41 PM   #23
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Hey Ryane, dumb question...the wood dowel, should it be long enough to be submerged into the beer?
Hmm thats actually something Ive seen and done both ways, to be honest I havent really noticed a difference either way, except what might be a bit more evaporation submerging the dowel, maybe someone else can weigh in with their own opinion on that subject as its something Ive been thinking about myself.

I cant see it making much difference because really the only point of the dowel is to let o2 in, and isnt really for the purpose of adding oak flavor, cubes do that very well if you want that, dry vs wet would probably just be a difference in o2 let into the carboy and even if that does make a difference it may be difficult to tease out because of the variability in wild beers from one batch to another because of the quantity/ratio of the various bugs in each batch
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Old 03-25-2010, 12:13 AM   #24
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This is a great and timely topic, I was just going to ask some similar questions. Thanks for getting the ball rolling AXP!

Not trying to hijack the thread, just contribute to the overall knowledge. It would be great if you knowledgable in this topic created a sticky for "where do I start"

I've never tried to brew a "wild brew", I'm still working on my all-grain technique and getting my mash effeciency dialed in.

This came up for me because I bought one of the 5 gallon oak barrels from this thread and wanted to know what to do with my barrel when I'm done aging beer in it.

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