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Old 04-18-2012, 08:43 PM   #11
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Just because I'm curious now what happens if the pellicle falls?
Don't know the exacts but have herd and read somewhere that it's better for the bugs in what they do... Also people don't like to mix it in inn fear of getting little pellicles in the bottles that's why you rack from underneath!! :cheers:
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:02 PM   #12
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Don't know the exacts but have herd and read somewhere that it's better for the bugs in what they do... Also people don't like to mix it in inn fear of getting little pellicles in the bottles that's why you rack from underneath!! :cheers:
Ahh that makes sense!
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Old 04-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #13
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But if yours is like mine right now and still in its infancy, theres no problem moving it now... I will be moving mine this weekend to its spot for a 6 month duration

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Old 04-18-2012, 09:41 PM   #14
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@microbusbrewery, next time I see you remind me to give you a bottle...lol....
What up Ed?!?! I'd be glad to take a bottle off your hands

To the OP, I don't think you have to worry too much about the pellicle falling. I've read that if it falls it will usually form again. Even if it doesn't come back, the bugs are still in there doing their work.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:10 PM   #15
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The pellicle falling is one of those rule of thumbs that was started by Jamil and has spread without people knowing what it means.

The pellicle is formed with a mixture of Brett and other bacteria in an effort to protect against oxygen. If you don't have oxygen in the headspace then a pellicle will not form, and that has nothing to do with the activity of Brett. A wild beer is "ready" when it tastes good. It may be "ready" before the activity has completely stopped (the gravity has stabilized over a couple months, but the Brett and bacteria never really stop, they just no longer consume sugar as their carbon source) and in which case you will need to either bottle in thick bottles or use filtering/cold crashing + campden tablets + re yeasting before bottling (or just keg it).

And yes too much heat favors the bacteria over Brett and results in a overly sour less complex beer. But 62-68 is a great range.

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Old 04-18-2012, 11:27 PM   #16
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The pellicle falling is one of those rule of thumbs that was started by Jamil and has spread without people knowing what it means.

The pellicle is formed with a mixture of Brett and other bacteria in an effort to protect against oxygen. If you don't have oxygen in the headspace then a pellicle will not form, and that has nothing to do with the activity of Brett. A wild beer is "ready" when it tastes good. It may be "ready" before the activity has completely stopped (the gravity has stabilized over a couple months, but the Brett and bacteria never really stop, they just no longer consume sugar as their carbon source) and in which case you will need to either bottle in thick bottles or use filtering/cold crashing + campden tablets + re yeasting before bottling (or just keg it).

And yes too much heat favors the bacteria over Brett and results in a overly sour less complex beer. But 62-68 is a great range.
Thank you! So when oaking with a dowel, is that to encourage the formation or growth of a pellicle? I know oxygen gets in there with doing the dowel...
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:31 AM   #17
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The oak dowel method is to mimic the micro oxygenation that happens in a barrel. Basically you do want some slow release of oxygen into the beer, but controlling that rate is difficult. You do not want a big dose of it because that will encourage the growth of acetobacter, which will turn your beer to vinegar. And that is what the pellicle is trying to prevent, but with too much oxygen the acetobacter will out grow the Brett.

I have tried the oak dowel method and it is more trouble than it is worth. But it's homebrewing so try whatever you want.

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Old 04-19-2012, 01:47 AM   #18
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The oak dowel method is to mimic the micro oxygenation that happens in a barrel. Basically you do want some slow release of oxygen into the beer, but controlling that rate is difficult. You do not want a big dose of it because that will encourage the growth of acetobacter, which will turn your beer to vinegar. And that is what the pellicle is trying to prevent, but with too much oxygen the acetobacter will out grow the Brett.

I have tried the oak dowel method and it is more trouble than it is worth. But it's homebrewing so try whatever you want.
Awesome, thanks again!! :cheers:
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Almighty
The oak dowel method is to mimic the micro oxygenation that happens in a barrel. Basically you do want some slow release of oxygen into the beer, but controlling that rate is difficult. You do not want a big dose of it because that will encourage the growth of acetobacter, which will turn your beer to vinegar. And that is what the pellicle is trying to prevent, but with too much oxygen the acetobacter will out grow the Brett.

I have tried the oak dowel method and it is more trouble than it is worth. But it's homebrewing so try whatever you want.
So an airlock on a carboy isn't the best then. Should it be removed periodically?
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:02 AM   #20
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I actually think it is better for sour beers to have mild swings in temperature. This is more important when aging in barrels because it helps with oak extraction.

I remember speaking with Eric Salazar of New Belgium and he was discussing the influence of the location of each foeder and how it makes a big impact on the beer. And I remember something to the extent that the foeders closer to the doors where his favorite and much more complex.

I would also age it in your closet. And the mild shaking should not influence the beer too much. Just try to be careful to introduce too much oxygen.
+1 seasonal changes stir the pot
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