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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Lambic & Wild Brewing > Oak furniture legs - oak dowels- air locks
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:36 AM   #11
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So if I'm understanding correctly for the flanders red I should use a better bottle ? I do have a few of them and just air lock it and because they are somewhat oxygen permeable this will allow enough O2 in to grow the acetobacter over the 18 months ? Also in this scenario should I use glass as a primary using adrennes strain than secondary in the better bottle with roselare for the remaining 17 months ? And as for the lambic I will be using wyeast lambic blend and that's a primary for a year or so and no oak and in glass with a airlock ?
Yup, but a secondary on the Flanders is your call. You can go with Roselare from day one in the better bottle or primary with Ardennes or WLP001/1056 and then go to the secondary with Roselare.

Lambic, glass. Do a half pitch of 001/1056 for a week and then pitch the Lambic blend on top of that.
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:14 PM   #12
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One last question regarding oak and the Flanders red. I like the idea of using a better bottle as it seems to be the best compromise between my options. Now that brings oak back into the equation if I use a BB and a regular airlock how does that oak flavor get in ? Should I use spirals . A busted up dowel. Cubes ? Toasted not toasted , medium , light white it red oak ? And finally would I put oak in from the start ? Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it ( this bug brewing is really interesting )

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Old 09-29-2012, 02:31 PM   #13
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Oak flavor is not required, but is not listed as being inappropriate for the style. The oak tanks traditionally used have been used so many times that all of the oak flavor is long gone. It just serves as a place for the bugs to live. If you wanted oak, I would suggest a dowel that fits through the cap of the better bottle. Soak the dowel in warm water a few times to mellow the flavors before toasting it in the oven.

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Old 09-29-2012, 04:36 PM   #14
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Soak the dowel in warm water a few times to mellow the flavors before toasting it in the oven.
I would have thought you wanted to toast before soaking. If you soak first, it will absorb a lot of the water and you end up poaching the wet wood rather than toasting it.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #15
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I would have thought you wanted to toast before soaking. If you soak first, it will absorb a lot of the water and you end up poaching the wet wood rather than toasting it.
Actually that does sound better. That would be more alike to the treatment a barrel receives.
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Old 09-29-2012, 06:03 PM   #16
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I understand to add oak flavor as well as allowing a little more oxygen to permeate than the better bottle alone but how do I know the oak dowel has not been treated or has glues in it ? Also do I use the oak from the beginning or allow any Krausen etc to fall back then add the dowel for the full 18 or something months or us there a time frame for oaking ?

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Old 09-29-2012, 06:05 PM   #17
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I would still use a solid bung so you don't need to keep an eye on your airlock. I've seen too many people let their airlock run dry when its a beer that sits for a year on then it would get way too oxidized. I use oak cubes and sometimes the old cubes I had in one of my red wines. You don't really need them and a Flanders has minimal if any oak flavor, it's more of a location for bugs to live. I've aged in BB and glass both with good results but I never aged in BB >1yr, better to have not enough O2 then too much.

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Old 09-29-2012, 09:21 PM   #18
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Ok I guess a more direct answer is how long should I put the oak in for assuming I use cubes let's say medium toast French ? I am probably going to use a better bottle as I read the O2 permeability charts from BB not to mention I see that stoppers also breath to an extent more than I realized as well. I'm just confused as to the length if time to oak and ferment- age in general.

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Old 09-29-2012, 10:30 PM   #19
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I would still use a solid bung so you don't need to keep an eye on your airlock. I've seen too many people let their airlock run dry when its a beer that sits for a year on then it would get way too oxidized. I use oak cubes and sometimes the old cubes I had in one of my red wines. You don't really need them and a Flanders has minimal if any oak flavor, it's more of a location for bugs to live. I've aged in BB and glass both with good results but I never aged in BB >1yr, better to have not enough O2 then too much.
I have a 53 gallon bourbon barrel of sour base beer. After I got tired of maintaining the airlock I bought a dry dual action bung. Look at Dalco Duall.
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Old 09-30-2012, 04:51 AM   #20
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Ok I guess a more direct answer is how long should I put the oak in for assuming I use cubes let's say medium toast French ? I am probably going to use a better bottle as I read the O2 permeability charts from BB not to mention I see that stoppers also breath to an extent more than I realized as well. I'm just confused as to the length if time to oak and ferment- age in general.
I don't take it out, I just leave it in and use them to inoculate the next batch. I always use cubes.
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