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Old 02-27-2014, 04:06 PM   #21
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I'm actually planning on building one out of a keg this weekend. Instead of cutting exaclty in half as seen, I am going to cut just a portion off the side in order to hold 10 gallons. I will install a weldless ball-valve to drain via gravity into fermenters. Still trying to determine how to insulate it so that I can get an ideal cooling time.

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Old 02-27-2014, 04:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schemy View Post
What is your method for draining/transfer out of this? Thinking of having a buddy of mine build me one, but not sure to go keg or fabricated rectangle route.
Weld-less bulkhead fitting with a ball valve.
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by BrewinHooligan View Post
I'm actually planning on building one out of a keg this weekend. Instead of cutting exaclty in half as seen, I am going to cut just a portion off the side in order to hold 10 gallons. I will install a weldless ball-valve to drain via gravity into fermenters. Still trying to determine how to insulate it so that I can get an ideal cooling time.
On a homebrewing scale, I wonder if open air cooling in a keggle would be just as good as a horizontal keg-coolship, given the volume/cooling time/surface area is fairly comparable.
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:07 PM   #24
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On a homebrewing scale, I wonder if open air cooling in a keggle would be just as good as a horizontal keg-coolship, given the volume/cooling time/surface area is fairly comparable.
You make a really good point there!! I hadn't even thought of that. I would bet dollars to donuts that the cooling time would be practically identical. The only difference being the open surface area to capture the wild yeast I would think...
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:14 PM   #25
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Even a 5 gallon bucket can do the trick if need be, although I like my cut in half keg for asthetics. If you're just looking to collect yeast, you can also just use mason jars to start out in small increments. That way you're not burning 5 gallons at a time, plus all the effort to store. Again, it gets back to the problem with cooling too fast - however you could insulate the container as well. I've had success with all three, thus far. Still aging at this point.

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Old 02-28-2014, 08:36 PM   #26
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Weld-less bulkhead fitting with a ball valve.
Where is that mounted on the keg/
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Where is that mounted on the keg/
Here is a photo that shows it a bit better.

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Old 03-03-2014, 03:21 PM   #28
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I would rather use food grade plastic than metal for a coolship. I think Allagash stated that slower cooling is better for inoculation. I would think that the plastic would insulate the beer a little better.
5 gallon home batch vs 2,000 gallon commercial batch. Not a comparsision.
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Old 03-04-2014, 11:34 PM   #29
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Are you guys also pitching yeast into these beers? Or only using the yeast captured during the cooling phase?

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