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Old 03-03-2013, 01:36 PM   #241
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Buying those bottles is a lot cheaper than buying a bunch of RR to get the bottles. Plus I've found that the RR bottles I have from the european manufacturer he sourced the bottles through had a weird mouth. So when I would go to cork them using my champagne floor corker sometimes the corks would get cut. The bottles have a sharp mouth compared to the UBP bottles that homebrew stores have now. I've bought myself a bunch of the 375s because I wanted bottles in that size. I have tons of champagne bottles but 375ml bottles are exactly a common size. The brewpub I used to work at had lindeman's and I picked up quite a lot 375s through them but they still weren't exactly stacking up.



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Old 03-14-2013, 09:35 PM   #242
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Brewed this up on December 1st 2012 and the airlock it still chugging away!



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Kegged: Galaxy IPA, Belgian Dubbel and Cherry Funk (Flanders Red + 10 lbs cherries)

Primary: Ned Flanders Red, RR Consecration on 2nd Gen Roeselare, Soured BDSA, Brett B ESB, Brett Trios Oatmeal Stout runnings.

Next: Oro de Calabaza Clone, Backwoods Bastard Clone, House IPA, House APA, German Hefe.

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Old 03-19-2013, 03:27 AM   #243
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This is my first time posting, but it seemed like a good time to jump in. I recently picked up this kit and brewed a handful of weeks ago (it already dropped to about 1.018 and i moved to secondary and dropped in the currants and brett). So far so good......except one odd part. After the brew and cool I took a sample and got an OG of 1.093. It seemed really high. I noticed a lot of what looked like hop sludge in the test tube so I'm wondering.....is that to be expected, with lots of particulates in the wort, should I expect to get an especially high OG? Is my original sample likely just artificially inflated or am I in for an especially boozy concoction (not really a complaint i guess)?

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Old 03-19-2013, 12:29 PM   #244
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floaties in the sample will make the reading higher. You should take a sample of clear wort for your readings.

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Old 03-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #245
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I brewed up the extract kit (my first sour) last week and have a few questions. My OG was 1.076 and I was happy with that. It's now been in the primary for 5 days now at about 70degrees. Will take a reading tonight. So here's my questions:
If my gravity reading is in the teens, do I have to cold crash around 60degrees for two days? OR can I just rack to the secondary? I will be adding Brett and my currants to the secondary for 7 to 8 weeks, then pitch my Roeselare. Also, do I pitch the Brett into the primary, then rack to the secondary? Or rack into the secondary, then pitch the Brett into that. I ask because I've seen some posts about avoiding too much oxygen when pitching the Brett. Should I put my racking can far into the carboy to avoid too much oxygen?

Lastly do I have to rack to a tertiary, then pitch the Roeselare? Or do I just pitch the Roeselare into the same secondary, leaving currants and all in there, and let it sour with the currents for the many months? Should i rack out the currants?
Thanks everyone

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Old 04-04-2013, 01:23 AM   #246
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Ok. Next step. 2 weeks ago, I Pitched the roeselare (after beligian primary and 2 months of brett head start) and flushed the headspace with co2. It seemed like the one of the yeasts (brett/sherry/belgian) inside the roeselare blend was working for several days. Not much in Krausen, or even a pellicle. In fact none at all. Just some movement in the carboy- producing co2 bubbles. Then nothing. Been over 2 weeks. I am new to sour/brett fermentations. I keep looking for some sick sh*t to start growing inside- but there are the black currants floating up top of a nice cherry red-brown beer. I am aware of the patience rule to brewing, but am curious as to the timing pattern of the pellicle formation. How long does it take to start forming? Does it in fact have to form? I know I need to wait 6-9 months (or 12-18 according to some) for the level of sourness produced by the bugs.

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Old 04-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #247
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It should form but it is a function of oxygen exposure usually. I've had pellicles never form and I've had some pretty funky looking ones rather quickly. So the answer to your question isn't much of an answer......it depends.

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Old 04-04-2013, 03:24 PM   #248
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I've also had the same results as smokinghole. Some times I'll get a pellicle within 2-3 weeks, other times it can take up to 3 months for it to even start. What temperature is it where you're fermenting?

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Old 04-04-2013, 04:47 PM   #249
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Back down to room temp. Which in this case is 60* right now in the basement during late winter/early spring. I guess I'm gonna hear I need to jack up the temp?

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Old 04-04-2013, 04:52 PM   #250
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Good guess! Yeah the Roeselare will function best between 65°F - 85°F. I would recommend fermenting this one up around 75°F if possible. One of my good buddies ferments in his basement / storage space under his house, which is around 55-60 in the winter. He wraps his carboys with a Fermwrap Heater and covers it all with a sweatshirt. The sweatshirt helps to keep the heat in, and he's able to keep his fermentation temperature up around 70-75F.

It should still ferment at 60°F, but it will definitely take a little longer, and might not be as funky in the end. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Cheers!


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