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Old 05-23-2012, 02:34 PM   #21
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pugs i think the modified looks great

never underestimate the flavor and complexity of base malt. especially maris otter.

color is irrelevant. i wouldn't use more than 1oz roasted. well i wouldn't use any, but...



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Old 05-23-2012, 02:34 PM   #22
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I use all RO water and 2% acidulated malt for mash pH. I think his 2 oz is going to be fine to get the room temp mash pH to about 5.5 with 100% RO water and assuming CaCl2/CaSO4 additions. I check pH every time with a test mash, Hana pHep5 & fresh calibration solution. I haven't come across a beer yet that didn't need acidulated malt with 100% RO water, but haven't brewed an intensely dark beer yet.



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Old 05-23-2012, 02:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSmith View Post
I use all RO water and 2% acidulated malt for mash pH. I think his 2 oz is going to be fine to get the room temp mash pH to about 5.5 with 100% RO water and assuming CaCl2/CaSO4 additions. I check pH every time with a test mash, Hana pHep5 & fresh calibration solution. I haven't come across a beer yet that didn't need acidulated malt with 100% RO water, but haven't brewed an intensely dark beer yet.
This is what I have been told to do as well with RO water and it has been working out great actually.
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Old 05-23-2012, 02:40 PM   #24
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re: mash temp, what yeast are you using?

I'd probably go for 151ish, maybe 150.

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Old 05-23-2012, 03:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motobrewer
re: mash temp, what yeast are you using?

I'd probably go for 151ish, maybe 150.
Using English Ale yeast. Really like this yeast. Cleans up nicely. That mash temp. sounds good. Thanks
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugs13 View Post
No I ment I cannot get ot at my brewing store and I just don't want to order it. I would rather substitute. Could I use like a roasted barley to get the color darker? Like 2oz. of a 550L? Also, what do you suggest for mash temp.?
Using only what the LHBS sells will seriously limit your options. There are several top notch online vendors (or stores you can also order from online/via phone). Rebel Brewer is one of them. I get some of my supplies from them. I get my British crystal malts from Farmhouse brewing supply (another vendor listed here). I sometimes order yeast from wither Midwest or NB (if Rebel doesn't have it). I would let the recipe determine where you shop not let one store dictate what you can use in a recipe.

I would NOT use a 550L malt in an ESB.

I would maah at either 150 or 152 for an hour. Using BeerSmith I get a solid prediction of the FG when I enter the mash temp in that section.

If you want a solid brew don't be afraid to order from online vendors and actually get software that's not free. You can try BeerSmith before paying for it. Look at the feedback on the vendors I've mentioned above. The vast majority of the feedback is very positive. You can even use paypal for purchases on some of them (maybe eveb all of them now) so you don't need a credit card.
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Old 05-23-2012, 03:26 PM   #27
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Probably just going to use
7# MO
6oz. Crystal 50-60L
2oz. Acidulated malt

My SRM is about 7-8ish
Ibu are about 34.
English ale yeast.
3.9% ABV
Mash temp - 151-152F 60min.
Fly sparge temp ? What do you think?
60min. Boil

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Old 05-23-2012, 03:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golddiggie

Using only what the LHBS sells will seriously limit your options. There are several top notch online vendors (or stores you can also order from online/via phone). Rebel Brewer is one of them. I get some of my supplies from them. I get my British crystal malts from Farmhouse brewing supply (another vendor listed here). I sometimes order yeast from wither Midwest or NB (if Rebel doesn't have it). I would let the recipe determine where you shop not let one store dictate what you can use in a recipe.

I would NOT use a 550L malt in an ESB.

I would maah at either 150 or 152 for an hour. Using BeerSmith I get a solid prediction of the FG when I enter the mash temp in that section.

If you want a solid brew don't be afraid to order from online vendors and actually get software that's not free. You can try BeerSmith before paying for it. Look at the feedback on the vendors I've mentioned above. The vast majority of the feedback is very positive. You can even use paypal for purchases on some of them (maybe eveb all of them now) so you don't need a credit card.
Thanks for the insight. I will have to look more into those vendors.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugs13 View Post
This is modified.
6lbs. 12oz. Marris Otter
6oz. Crystal 50-60L
4oz. Biscuit malt
2oz. Acidulated malt

My hop additions are
1oz. Fuggles - 60min.
.25oz. EKG - 10min.
.5oz. Fuggles - 10min.
.25oz. EKG - 5min.
.5oz. Fuggles - 5min.

I am using English Ale yeast. I have had really good luck with that yeast.
This looks fantastic to me (as does your most recent version, without the biscuit. Either way you've got an excellent bitter). I don't use acidulated malt, so I'll leave the ph argument to others, but besides that, it looks like a great beer. Simplicity rules.

Mash at 152 or 154 - either way you'll be fine.


BTW, hopbursting in a Bitter? WTH? Bitters are all about balance.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:58 PM   #30
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Yes, hop bursting an ESB/English pale ale or even English IPA is great. With the 20 and 15 minute additions you get most of the IBUs. With the later additions you build the flavor and aroma profile. If you do a 'normal' hop schedule then I would make sure to use enough later addition hop amounta so that you get something from them.

I used all EKG in my MO SMaSH recipe with one 60 minute addition and then the rest from 20 minutes forward. The BU/GU balance was great even with a good amount of hops. I did hop burst my caramel ale which also has the BU/GU balance desired.
Basically don't fear hop bursting. Read up on the method and try a recipe (or several) and see how you like it. It def. has a place in brewing.



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