Wheat/barley/rye/rice free brewing??
Hi everyone, I am looking for a recipe for beer made from corn (maize) I have developed a grain allergy and (shock horror:( ) can no longer drink beer!!!! After 4 years of 'missing out' on my favourite brews, I am hoping that someone can help. I have brewed before and made wine, so am not a total novice, but cannot find any recipes to suit my requirements.
Celiac's maybe? My nephew has it and I am committed to finding a good gluten free beer recipe in time for his 21st birthday. I've heard of gluten free beer recipes but don't know of one off hand - you might try googling on that subject and see what comes up. I am also interested, though I have time (he is only 17 now).
Also look here http://www.fortunecity.com/boozers/b...r/recipes.htm#
If rice is a problem, that eliminates most gluten-free recipes.
You might try tracking done how the mash corn for bourbon (or fuel) and experiment with hopping.
Thanks everyone, plenty of food for thought here!
David 42 : yes you are right about rice sensitivity eliminating most gluten free recipes, it makes it v hard. I have become expert at label reading! I have heard that the Tarahumara Indians of Mexico brew a beer from corn mash, but have not found any recipes.
Your recipe sounds interesting Budbo, maybe corn maltose syrup could be used instead of rice syrup? And I also wonder whether mixing the malted buckwheat mash with corn mash might be worth trying. I will certainly have a go and let you know what comes of it. Any more ideas on this or other specialist 'diet' recipes would be great. There are obviously a lot of us about!
See malting process below. The next step would be to crush and cook the corn. My understanding is about 2 hours at 180F. Apparently it soaks up a huge amount of water in the process. No reason you couldn't InMashHop. I'm looking for more info on the fermentation process, but it looks like you ferment the mash. That gives the yeast time to breakdown the starches as well as ferment the sugar. Some sites recommend adding a little cane sugar to get the yeast going.
Here's a bit on malting corn:
Regardless of where you got your corn, now that you've got it, you have to malt it. Malting helps start the conversion of insoluble starches into simpler starches and sugars. This conversion will be continued in the mash (see below). The idea behind malting is to trick the seed into thinking it is time to start growing. Upon sprouting, the seed will begin converting the starches meant for long-term storage to a simpler form more suitable for use during the initial growth phase. The malting process turns maize into jora.
If you're dealing with kernels still on the cob, peel the husks back, remove the silk, and hang them in a warm place for at least two weeks (the longer the better). The kernels should be dry and loose on the cob. I found that the drier the ear is, the easier the kernels are to remove.
When dry, remove the kernels using whatever seems to work (a twisting motion works well for me, but watch out for blisters).
Soak the kernels in water for 2 days. With one particular type of corn, the kernels sprouted for me while still soaking. With another type, they did not. There doesn't seem to be any reason to soak for more than 2 days. After a day or two, you will notice signs of 'fermentation' (production of gas bubbles and a not unpleasant odor). Because of this, you want to drain, rinse, and replace the soak water at least twice a day.
If you don't see evidence of sprouting while soaking after 2 days, don't worry. Remove the corn and place in a container that allows drainage. When using corn I've grown, I often deal with small enough quantities that a large colander works well. Larger quantities are accommodated by a plastic tray with holes drilled in the bottom. I use a kitty litter box for this. The depth of the bed of corn does not seem to be too critical, but it should be relatively shallow (about 2-3 inches) to discourage the growth of mold and to make turning the corn easier. This is a problem particularly with large amounts of corn that are not easy to rinse and turn. Cover the colander/cat box with a damp dish cloth to keep the kernels from drying out.
Rinse the corn at least twice a day. The corn also needs to be turned at least twice a day. This makes life tougher for mold and it also seems to have the effect of making the rate of sprouting more even. Once removed from the soak, sprouting proceeds pretty quickly and I think the buggers like some air. Again, different kinds of corn behave differently, but you should see the roots grow to one inch within a few days.
Note that the roots will appear first and will get to be an inch or so before the acrospire begins to grow. Don't confuse the roots (long, thin, and white) with the acrospires (shorter and thicker than the roots, and greenish/yellowish in color). Keep the sprouting kernels from sunlight as this could have the effect of allowing the acrospires to become green and bitter. Allow the acrospires to reach a length of 2 to 3 times the length/height of the kernel.
Rootlets appearing from germinating maize
Depending on the corn, your germination rate will vary. I have seen apparent 100%, 95%, and 50% germination rates with several different types of corn. I'm sure there are probably many reasons why there is so much variance. Perhaps it depends on the health/maturity of the corn. You'll get a higher rate of germination if you age the dried kernels for several months.
Also, generally growth is not very even. If you need a project, you can pluck out individual kernels when their acrospires reach the desired length and dry the entire batch in stages. Or wait until some are very long and most have sprouted and dry the whole batch at once.
When the acrospires reach 2 to 3 times the length of the kernel (4 to 7 days), their growth should be stopped. This can be accomplished by spreading them out in the sun. This works surprisingly well and is my preferred method. Or, if your oven can maintain a low temperature, that can be used. Spread the baby corn on a cookie sheet and bake it at 130F for about 8 hours. A food dehydrator can also be used.
When the malted corn appears to be completely dry, it probably isn't. I store mine in brown paper bags so that it can (hopefully) continue to lose moisture. I've had minor trouble with weevils when storing jora for more than six months. After a month or so storage in a paper bag, I put mine in the fridge until I'm ready to use it in the hopes that this slows the bugs down.
When dry, you have jora.
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