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Old 06-27-2011, 11:38 PM   #21
Hex23
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Originally Posted by BobG View Post
@Hex Those are Brix. I take my gravvities witha refractometer andconvert them to SG in Promash.
Oh duh! I was just not thinking about the possibility of measuring FG with a refractometer. Do you normally plan to measure FG with a hydrometer? If you normally do that I'd be curious to see those numbers too.
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:42 PM   #22
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overflow - thanks for the extra data point. Looks like WL072 and Wy3725 are both good candidates. Sounds like the 15 minute mash may not be necessary either ...

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Old 07-23-2011, 03:42 AM   #23
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ok. Im posting a follow up as i thougt i lost this thread.I ended up with a crusty thin white layer on top, think it was a locto infection, due to topping off(which i dont ever do normally)or nats or a fruitfly or who-knows.Despite this disappointment i made 2 other beers with this same yeast s-33 without this infection.I still racked and bottled this, and i have to say it tasted amazing it finished at 1.018 which i never had a gravity this high, but i mashed high also. I drank one@ 6 days bottled and i have to say it reminded me of Ovila Saison i just had tried tonight,except mine didnt have the spice and mine was med-full bodied-like domain its suppose to be(i think). Anyways im going to keep my eye out for overcarbantion from the infection then just fridge them, they are way too good too just dump out.
I also fermented about 67 for 4 weeks.I dont know how long ill be able to conditon it but at 67 degrees over a week it is clearing fast.With more than average sedimentation in the bottle. Im not seing the film on top so i think they would be ok for awhile, i would just hate to have to drink them so fast and i need to get another fridge now.
Anybody know if them clearing like this is bad,due to what the recipe and final gravity is- im kinda concerned now after looking at those pics.And trying to remeber what the actuall beer looks like, from what i remember it was not clear.
My first infection and getting a bit noidy, but i do have them in a cooler in my basement at 67 deg.I just feel a bit cheated out of being able to condition these further as i have only had them bottled a few weeks.

Tasting notes for hops subbed with pilgrim and sapphire: Pilgrim was probably not the right sub, had a citrusy bite to it is still good and with the s-33 yeast probably a completly differnt beer, i have to go out to get some Domaine to compare it more.Ill post back in this thread.For now im not going to sub anything if i want something close to the origional.

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Old 01-02-2012, 04:27 AM   #24
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Here is the updated recipe posted in 2010 from BYO in case anyone else is curious to see the changes: Brew Your Own: The How-To Homebrew Beer Magazine - Recipes - Belgian and French Ale - Two Brothers Brewing Co. Domaine DuPage clone

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Old 01-02-2012, 02:09 PM   #25
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:34 PM   #26
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I just toured the brewery over the wekend and they e-mailed me some recipes including this one (below). The only weird thing is that they didn't specify a yeast strain.

Grain Bill

52% Vienna Malt
38% Munich Malt
5% Caramel Wheat
2.5% CaraMunich Malt
2.5% Melanoidin Malt

Hops
1. Northern Brewer – 7 IBU’s
2. Mt Hood – 9.5 IBU’s
3. Mt Hood – 6 IBU’s

Mash: 152F
Boil: 120 minutes

Add first hops with 60 minutes left
Add second hops with 25 minutes left
Add third hops with 10 minutes left

Starting gravity 1.069
Finishing gravity 1.018

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Old 01-23-2012, 08:47 PM   #27
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The recipe you got via email looks almost exactly the same as the 2010 BYO one, so it's probably a good bet their yeast recommendation is also correct unless it's a house strain or something. White Labs WLP072 (French Ale) or Wyeast 3711 (Belgian Saison).

Only thing different on BYO is the SG/FG. Wonder what's up with that? Mashing at 152 I'm not sure how an FG that high is possible given the ingredients of the recipe. Also, last time I used 3711 in a saison it finished at 1.004. Maybe if WLP072 doesn't attenuate as fully that would make it a better choice. I already bought 3711 though. Plan to brew this sometime in the next month. It's either 2nd or 3rd in my queue atm...haven't decided

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Old 05-19-2012, 01:30 AM   #28
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I know this thread hasn't been visited in a while, but felt compelled to post. I brewed the BYO recipe about 6 weeks ago. The LHBS did not have the yeast mentioned, and were low on inventory. Determined to brew that day, I used Wyeast Belgian Strong Ale. At first the nose was a little too funky, but now everyone raves about the beer overall. They insist that I shouldn't even try the saison yeast next time, and just stick with the Strong Ale. Cheers.

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Old 05-20-2012, 02:09 PM   #29
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I know this thread hasn't been visited in a while, but felt compelled to post. I brewed the BYO recipe about 6 weeks ago. The LHBS did not have the yeast mentioned, and were low on inventory. Determined to brew that day, I used Wyeast Belgian Strong Ale. At first the nose was a little too funky, but now everyone raves about the beer overall. They insist that I shouldn't even try the saison yeast next time, and just stick with the Strong Ale. Cheers.
Thanks for the info. What was your fermentation temperature profile?
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Old 05-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #30
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Thanks for the info. What was your fermentation temperature profile?
Well, I pitched at around 72. There was active fermentation within 12 hours. It got up to 82 for about a day and a half, then slowly got down to 70 for the remainder of the time. I had this wrapped in a blanket and sitting over a heating duct on the floor (we keep the thermostat between 60-67 in the winter). I left it in the primary for 2.5 weeks then went straight to bottles. I wish I had put it in the secondary for at least a few weeks though, there is a lot of sediment in the bottles, although no body else has complained about that once they drink it.

I recently learned that this yeast along with all other 1300 series of Wyeast are true top flocculating yeast. I kept waiting for it to settle out, but it doesn't. I have experience and read about this with others trying to brew the Cane & Ebel saying the same thing with Northwest Ale Yeast. You just have to rack through it.
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