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Old 07-15-2008, 09:25 PM   #1
oberon567
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Default Summer Ale Recipe Advice

Hi everyone,
I am setting up to brew a batch this weekend, and I am pretty sure I have got a recipe I am happy with, but I would love some feedback. I am going for something highly drinkable, nice and refreshing for the hot summer days.

Wild Dog Days Summer Ale
6.0 lbs. (Muntons) Pale DME
2.0 lbs. (Muntons) Extra-Pale DME
0.5 lbs. Crystal Malt 20L steeped at 150 degrees for 30 mins.
0.5 oz. Centennial (9.9%) hop pellets for 60 mins.
0.5 oz. Centennial (9.9%) hop pellets for 45 mins.
1.0 oz Fuggles hop pellets for 10 minutes
Zest from 2 oranges for 10 minutes
Zest from 1 orange in secondary fermenter
White Labs 001 (California Ale)
½ tsp. Irish moss for 15 mins

I tend to like my beers strong but am thinking it may be a bit too much DME for the level of drinkability I am aiming for, especially since I am splitting this batch with friends, so I may drop it to 5lb./2lb. or even 4lb./2lb.

Thoughts? Advice?

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Old 07-15-2008, 10:28 PM   #2
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I take it you were planning to add the greater portion of the DME as a late addition? If so, great!

I prefer the 4/2 scenario, mainly because I like to have more than a couple of beers at a sitting. 6 lbs of DME in a 5-gallon batch puts it at the upper limit (~1.048) of my personal ABV "knock back a sixer" comfort zone.

Looks good!

Bob

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Old 07-15-2008, 11:40 PM   #3
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I actually wasn't thinking of adding any as a late addition - I didn't realize that made a difference with extract. I thought when using extract all of your starches had already been broken down and fermentable sugars catalyzed, and as such it didn't when it was added... I am assuming, now, that I was somewhat wrong... What changes with late addition extract versus full-boil extract?

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Old 07-15-2008, 11:44 PM   #4
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Never mind on that - I just did alittle searching and figured out that I WAS right inasmuch as the OG is not affected due to when the extract is added, but rather the late addition reduces the density of the original boil and helps prevent carmelization of sugars and hence keeps the beer lighter and also improves hop utilization... it is a shame I did not realize this for my last batch, which was a IIPA... I usually boil with 2.5 - 3 US gallons, so maybe I will boil 3lbs. of DME the full time and add the remainder, whatever it may be, for the last 20 mins? Does that sound about right?

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Old 07-15-2008, 11:46 PM   #5
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I love the citrusy ales in summer and found I can get a nice grapefruit flavor that is not overpowering by dry hopping with cascade. maybe .75 oz per 5 gall

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Old 07-16-2008, 12:02 AM   #6
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For late additions, I believe adding 75% of your DME bill in the final 20 min of the boil is pretty common. But you can do 50-50, 60-40, whatever you're comfortable with.
Over all, looks like a nice recipe. You might want to consider switching the hops (ie bitter with the fuggles and use the centennials for aroma). The citrusy nature of the Centennials will prob mesh really nicely with the orange peel. But that's just one guy's opinion.

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Old 07-16-2008, 12:02 AM   #7
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When I first started brewing I would intentionally use anything but Cascade, since everyone else used them. I very quickly came to recognize whythey are so used. I had not even thought of dry-hopping with Cascade. Thanks for the tip.

On a tangential note - Does using a hop bags, either in the boil or when dry-hopping, mitigate the hop utilization? I suppose the same question would go for a grain bag when steeping specialty grains or doing a partial mash?

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Old 07-16-2008, 12:04 AM   #8
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I was originally hoping to use Williamette, not Fuggles, but the homebrew store was out of them, so I made a last minute change, without thinking of maybe switching things around...

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Old 07-16-2008, 01:31 AM   #9
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hop bags do lower your IBU numbers to some degree, but I'm not sure how much. Grain bags not so much. What you might want to do for the hops is to use the larger grain bags. This allows more of the wort to come in contact with the hops, keeping the bad loose. When you use the smaller bags the hops expand and often stretch out the bags. The hops in the middle don't get utilized as well, thus the lower IBU.

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Old 07-16-2008, 02:43 AM   #10
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I use the 2 gallon paint strainer bags with a zip tie then toss them in the keg without weights in bag. They sink within a week. They stay there until the keg is empty. first week seems a little grassy but week 2-4 is heaven. hop union has a pdf for download that is very imformative about many hop varieties.
when boiling I use the 5 gallon bag clospined to the side so they float arounf in the keggle quite a bit.

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"I've got a fever... and the only prescription is, MORE CARBOYS!"
primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.
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