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**sgraham602** · 12-15-2012, 10:15 PM

So i've been intrigued by the idea of SMaSH beers. I took my IPA and dialed it down to a SMaSH recipe. I'm concerned that color wise it is super light. Should i even worry about this? or do SMaSH recipes typically use a different base malt...i.e. Marris Otter?

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP051 California V
Yeast Starter: yes
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.060
Final Gravity: 1.013
IBU: 62.7
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 4.2
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 21 @ 67

13 lbs Pale Malt (2-row) US - 100%

1.25 oz Cascade (6.5%) @ 60 min
1.75 oz Cascade (6.5%) @ 20 min
3.25 oz Cascade (6.5%) @ 5 min
1.00 oz Cascade (6.5%) @ dry hop 7 days

**Golddiggie** · 12-15-2012, 10:26 PM

You could add some crystal MO if you wanted to (and still keep it a SMaSH).

Really liking my MO SMaSH IPA batch that's on tap currently. I used EKG, kept it under 50 IBU and used Wyeast 1882-PC yeast. Damned fine in the glass.

What temp are you planning to mash at?

**sgraham602** · 12-15-2012, 10:49 PM

**Golddiggie** · 12-15-2012, 10:51 PM

You might want to go to 154 for this one, so that the MO can cut through the IBU's and hops better.

**Brulosopher** · 12-15-2012, 10:57 PM

It's a SMaSH, use just a "single malt" and don't worry about things like color... that's the point

**Golddiggie** · 12-15-2012, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brulosopher

It's a SMaSH, use just a "single malt" and don't worry about things like color... that's the point

Yup... IF you're at all concerned, boil harder and let it get a bit of color that way.

I actually want to get mine to be a really light color for next batch.

"sure, it's a 'light' beer."

Maybe in color but not in flavah!!

lockwom · 12-16-2012, 03:32 AM

Perhaps you could use a decoction technique with a longer boil to reach mashout. Would darken your beer some, and add some extra character.

**Golddiggie** · 12-16-2012, 03:40 AM

I think a caramelizing boil would be a better idea. Sparge with some extra water, pull off a gallon and boil that, hard, to reduce it. Get it down to a pint (maybe less) then add it back to the main boil before you start the chill.

eulipion2 · 12-16-2012, 02:48 PM

Maris Otter and a BU:GU ratio of about 1.0, mash 152-154, 60 minute boil. For my IPAs I usually do First Wort then lots of late addition hops/dry hops. I no-chill, so hop bursting isn't really an option for me, but for you, you could do 20-15-10-5-0 plus dry hop. Lots of hop flavor, smooth bitterness, very hop-forward, but balanced.

**Golddiggie** · 12-16-2012, 04:34 PM

My bitterness ratio was .792 for my MO SMaSH IPA batch (now on tap). I don't think you need to go all the way to 1.0 for this. Actually, it probably won't be an IPA if you do.