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Old 05-09-2013, 08:57 PM   #11
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I think the newest version of the recipe looks much improved. The more I think about it, the more I believe you're good with 100g or so of the peated malt. Yes, it can be strong stuff, but this beer is going to have a lot of strong players, and you don't want to have the smokiness get completely lost among everything else. So I think you're good there. Know, too, that peated malt comes in varying degrees of "peatedness," if that is a word. Get a feel for whether you have lightly, moderately, or heavily peated malt, and make adjustments based off that.

Are you using the Wyeast Scottish ale yeast? If so, do build up a big starter, and try to keep the fermentation temp rising a bit towards the tail end. You may also need to rouse it as it slows down. With a little encouragement, this yeast can ferment really big beers. I've pushed it to 14%. It's a solid choice and makes a great beer.

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Old 05-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #12
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I can see how that calculator can be tricky since it doesn't seem to give you the option of adding additional packs of yeast. Try this one instead: http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-pitch-rate-and-starter-calculator/ or the one in my previous post above (Mr. Malty). It looks like you'll need to start with at least 3 yeast packs, and you can make a 2L starter with that and you should be fine. If you have a local homebrew shop, select the freshest yeast you can, because as you can see, of the 100 billion cells in your yeast pack manufactured 3/8/13, only about 60% are still alive/viable.

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Old 05-10-2013, 06:56 AM   #13
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@ GuldTuborg: i put a little bit of peated malt in hot water and i try to drink it, it didn't look very strong! i think that European peated malt is very different from US peated malt!

@soviet: Ok! i'm going to buy two packs of yeast (on a web-site, i'll say to them to give me the two fresher) and put them in a 2liter starter! (putting in the wort only che compacted yeast)

and about the ibu? the range 80-100 is ok? is better a little bit less or more?

thanks you so much

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Old 05-10-2013, 02:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico93 View Post
@ GuldTuborg: i put a little bit of peated malt in hot water and i try to drink it, it didn't look very strong! i think that European peated malt is very different from US peated malt!
Good on you for finding a way to figure out, for yourself, what's going to taste best to you. Adjust your recipe as you see fit from your perceived strength level of the peat.

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Originally Posted by Nico93 View Post
and about the ibu? the range 80-100 is ok? is better a little bit less or more?
I usually like a roughly 1:1 ratio of OG:IBU points for an RIS. If you plan to age, you could even increase that. That's pretty firm bitterness, but it usually balances the roast character well, and provides good aging potential. If you like a slightly sweeter stout, go lower on the IBUs. I would not recommend going under a 3:2 ratio.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:14 AM   #15
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Ricipe stout, final liters 20,0 (boil liters 24,5)
efficienza 72%, boil 60 min.
OG 1,127; IBU: 101,8; EBC: 122;
Malti:
4900 gr Pale Malt, Maris Otter, 1,038;
700 gr Chocolate Malt, 1,030;
700 gr Roasted Barley, 1,028;
500 gr Crystal 75L, 1,034;
200 gr Peated, 1,038;
500 gr flaked barley 1,033;
3000 gr Light dme liquid, 1,037;
hops:
15 gr Goldings, East Kent, 6,0 %a.a., 30 min, Kettle;
15 gr Goldings, East Kent, 6,0 %a.a., 10 min, Kettle;
100 gr Columbus (Tomahawk), 14,0 %a.a., 60 min, Kettle;
20 gr Chinook, 13,0 %a.a., 60 min, Kettle;
Bu/Gu:0,8
yeast:
Scotish Ale (two packs and 2 liters starter)
Mash Steps:
50 °C 10 min
68 °C 80 min
78 °C 15 min

i added a little bit of peated malt because after tasted it i think that 100 grams are ininfluent on the taste (i think that european peated malt is not so strong as US)

is that recipe ok? any suggestions?

another question:
when the fermentation is completed and i bottle the beer, i have to put some fresh yeast to make sure that carbony?
how much sugar for the priming? (g/l?)

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Old 05-11-2013, 05:52 PM   #16
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That recipe looks good to me. I'd brew it as is. Plan on this taking a long time to condition and come around. I don't normally transfer to a secondary fermentor, but with RISs I do to bulk age, as they always drop a massive amount of trub over time, that just doesn't seem to happen with an extended primary.

Depending upon how long you bulk age it, you may or may not need to reyeast at bottling time. I'd consider it if you bulk age for over 3 months. Use a bottling carbonation calculator to figure out how much sugar you need to use. Tastybrew has one that's super easy to use. This ought to be perfect come the holiday season, but have what it takes to age for years. Good luck!

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Old 05-11-2013, 08:33 PM   #17
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ok, i'll trasfer to the second fermentary after a week and leave it in the second fermenter for a month.

how many volumes of CO2 are needed about? I was thinking about 2.1? it's ok?

thanks you so much

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Old 05-11-2013, 10:37 PM   #18
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ok, i'll trasfer to the second fermentary after a week
That will almost certainly be too soon. If you don't want to make multiple gravity readings, give it 3 weeks or so to ensure it's done.
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:22 PM   #19
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Perfectly! i'am going to make a report after the brewday!

thanks!

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Old 05-15-2013, 12:11 PM   #20
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another question! the last one!

I decided to use the 'Wyeast 1728 Scottish ale but now I'm thinking if it is the most suitable:

which yeast is the best for this type of beer?

1728 | scottish ale
1028 | London Ale
1056 | American Ale
1762 | Belgian Abbey II
1084 | Irish Ale

I was thinking scottish ale, but i'd like to know your opinions

Thanks so much

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