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Old 03-05-2013, 02:01 PM   #111
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Hop Hammer is an amped-up Elder clone, it's not younger. It's basically identical to Elder, just slightly higher gravity. (9-9.5% abv)

As for the multiple dry hops, it just works. All the breweries that are making killer double and Triple IPAs use that method. I forgot who it was, but some brewery or university did some research and found that there was no additional benefit to adding more than ~ 0.5lbs/bbl of hops per dry hop addition. Any additional dry hops didn't add additional flavor or aroma.

They did find that subsequent additions add more flavor and aroma though. I'm not sure anyone understands the science behind it yet, they only know that it works. Firestone walker does 3-4 additions on their IPAs and DIPAs with super short contact times (3-4 days). Vinnie has moved to shorter more frequent dry hop schedules than they were doing in 2004-2005. Stone has moved to multiple dry hops on their new DIPAs (ruination 10th, Enjoy By, 16th ani, etc). Try it out yourself, you'll see.

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Old 03-05-2013, 05:31 PM   #112
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Thanks guys for the feedback and I sorry if I’m dragging the subject on for too long. The evidence seems strong that multistage hopping imparts more aroma than single stage hopping of an equivalent hop volume. But, it seems that the aroma imparted should be a function of hop type, hop volume, time of exposure, and area of exposure. The only difference between multistage hopping and single stage hopping is the area of exposure is increased with multistage hopping. The difference between a commercial setting and home brewing is that when dealing with five gallons, the area of exposure can increased with gentle agitation and that might mitigate the difference between multistage and single stage hopping. Now, Scottland suggested that perhaps there is a saturation effect when the volume is above 8 ounces of hops in 31 gallons. However, even 2 ounces of hops in 5 gallons exceeds that ratio. If you have a reference to that paper, I would appreciate reading it. I think the dry hopper device might be an effective device to try an experiment with.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:36 PM   #113
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But, it seems that the aroma imparted should be a function of hop type, hop volume, time of exposure, and area of exposure.
And it usually is. We typically rely on high total oil content and/or high myrcene American Pacific Northwest hops for dryhopping American IPAs. These include most (but not all) of the hops referenced here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/amer...-chart-390356/

The amount we use is normally around 0.50 to 1.25 oz. dryhops per gallon of beer. The time of exposure ranges from 3-14 days on average, depending. Some choose to toss their dryhops in loose, others bag them.

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The only difference between multistage hopping and single stage hopping is the area of exposure is increased with multistage hopping.
You can have the same level of exposure with both methods if you weigh the bag down. It also really depends on your individual system/methods.
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Old 03-08-2013, 03:30 PM   #114
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Hey scottland, maybe I didn't see it above. What was the total cost approximately for your 5 gal PTY batch? I know my totals for PTE come out to between $50 - $53 depending on current grain/hop costs. I'm doing another batch of PTE this weekend!

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Old 03-08-2013, 03:50 PM   #115
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The best type of bags are the larger, fine mesh drawstring bags that you can tie to the neck of the carboy for ease of removal.
How would you recommend keeping the carboy sealed with a string coming out of the mouth? Do you just force the stopper back in around the string, or do you use a different airlock setup in this scenario? Would something fine like thread or fishing line work best?
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:34 PM   #116
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How would you recommend keeping the carboy sealed with a string coming out of the mouth? Do you just force the stopper back in around the string, or do you use a different airlock setup in this scenario? Would something fine like thread or fishing line work best?
I considered that question with respect to tying off a hop bag in a keg. Some suggest using unflavored dental floss, which is what I did and it seems to work fine. Using floss with a keg seems to be air tight. I’m not sure it matters that much if it is not 100% air tight given that I am purging with CO2 anyway. Although, it is nice that I can gently rock the keg to agitate the hops and nothing leaks out.

I just started dry hopping my first batch of PTY. The FG was 1.010 with an OG of 1.089. I used Scottland’s originally recommendation of mashing at 148. I must say, at this point it taste awesome! Perhaps just a smidgeon sweeter because I had to use carafoam malt rather than cara-pils. But, it is looking really good so far.

Good luck!
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:24 PM   #117
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Hey scottland, maybe I didn't see it above. What was the total cost approximately for your 5 gal PTY batch? I know my totals for PTE come out to between $50 - $53 depending on current grain/hop costs. I'm doing another batch of PTE this weekend!
I didn't add it up. I bought hop extract and my hops in bulk. That helps a lot.

8 hop shots: $7
15.5oz hops: ~ $15
Yeast: $7.50
Malt: ~ $17

Ya, $48 or so. Depending on your hop and malt prices that could vary a lot.
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:42 AM   #118
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Also, when maximum recommended dry-hop rates are discussed above (e.g. 0.5 lbs/bbl), is this the maximum amount of total dry hops that should be used, or is this the maximum amount that should be used per hop addition?

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Old 03-09-2013, 01:14 AM   #119
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Also, when maximum recommended dry-hop rates are discussed above (e.g. 0.5 lbs/bbl), is this the maximum amount of total dry hops that should be used, or is this the maximum amount that should be used per hop addition?
Per addition. I've heard of a number of breweries that have tested is.
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #120
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Alright, the fun is winding down. The final dry hop addition went in Friday, and today I'm going to crash the keg and fine with gelatin tomorrow. I've been pulling the dry-hopper out after each addition. Then cleaning and sanitizing it before putting it back in. To be honest, it's a been a pain in the ***. If I were to make this beer more often, I would probably just leave the hops in, and not remove them before the next addition. It would be much easier to just pop the lid on this dry hopper and simply dump more in.

I took a sample when I added the dry hops Friday, and it's tasting right on target. So as long as I don't F something up at this point, it should be fantastic.

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