Biscostew

Recipes 

Brewing this recipe again first batch got a bad acetobacter infection and I had to dump it. Going to use Edinburgh ale yeast and a slightly different hop schedule. Hope to have some ready for Christmas!

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bguzz

Recipes 

brewed this in January and March. Aged 2 months on oak cubes. Both batches went fine, but after 6 months...I have to say, the beer is a bit on the sweet side and i'm not pickup up much of anything. Maybe aging will help it, but right now I wish I had upped the IBU's to make it a bit more bitter. Both batches taste very similar.

gmcastil

Recipes 

I wonder if this is related to the fact that the hops added at flameout aren't contributing the same as the whirlpool hops that is added in the original.

When I brewed this, I first wort hopped the 15 minute addition and then added the whirlpool hops at flameout, but then let it sit for 20 minutes prior to chilling.

Thoughts?

lemmiwinks

Recipes 

I still have a PM/Extract batch in secondary that I brewed in January.
I'm looking to have this ready to drink for the Christmas/New Years.
It was originally for my wife's birthday in October, but one homebrew led to another and we're expecting another assistant brewer in the beginning of December.

Question is two fold:

Should I re-pitch some yeast or will 3.5 months in the bottle be enough to carb them up?

If I do re-pitch, what's the process?
I've never done that before.

Any tips would be appreciated......

fermenter

Recipes 

Well lemmiwinks, I was listening to a brewing network podcast where they covered this topic. if you think you needed to add yeast they recommended using about 1 gram of yeast rehydrating it and adding it to the bottling bucket when you add your priming sugar.

Using this as a guide:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Rehydrating_dry_yeast
It says: "To rehydrate your dry yeast, simply sprinkle the dry yeast into a cup (1c) of 104°F sterile (pre-boiled) water 30 minutes before pitching. The temperature and time are recommendations"

Since you are only using 1 gram I would perhaps only use 1c or 236g / 11.5 (grams in a packet) = 20g of 104°F sterile (pre-boiled) water for each gram of yeast.

I would think about using something simple such as Safale US-05 Ale Yeast.

If anyone has any better ideas please add them.

drawdy10

Recipes 

I dumped in a whole packet of red star champagne yeast in at bottling with the priming sugar and had good results the one and only time that I have had to re-yeast at bottling. You can probably get away with less, but what is the point of keeping some? There is no way I can think of to keep that sterile for use in a future batch, plus it's like a dollar for a whole pack.... Also I think the point is here that the amount of yeast can't really be overdone, it's saccromyces so the only think it can eat is ferment able sugars, thus meaning that since your beer is at terminal gravity prior to priming the only factor that should matter is the amount of priming sugars, so long as there is enough yeast to get them eaten to produce your CO2 you are all set, having extra yeast wouldnt hurt since they can't eat anything more than what you give them, make sense?? Cheers and good luck!!

lemmiwinks

Recipes 

yup - makes sense thanks guys.

So you think re-pitching is a must here even though it'll sit in bottles for about 3.5 months prior to serving?

MorningGloryBrew

Recipes 

Look at it this way; $3 for a packet of dry yeast is insurance against letting them sit for 3.5 months and cracking open flat bottles of beer at Christmas!

suprchunk

Recipes 

Where are you guys getting your yeast at $1 and $3? The last two posts that is. I'm near the source and it still goes for around $6. Give me a link to the magic source.

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bottlebomber

Recipes 

You're paying $6 for a packet of dry yeast?