My first recipe. Looking for Feedback. ETA to Mash-in 36 hours!!
I guess I don't start slow, but I like IPA's so I'm jumping right into one. Here it is:
6 gal batch
11 lbs 2 row
5 lbs light munich (I like a bit of body, kinda guessing with this)
Mashing @ 148F for 75 min, mashout at 168F for 10 min
1 hour boil:
1oz Simcoe for 60 min
.5oz Simcoe for 30 min
2oz Amarillo for 20 min
1oz Cascade, steep for 10 min
Fermentation: White Labs Californial Ale Yeast WLP001, maybe with a small dry yeast bump to account for the extra gallon.
Dry hop with 1oz Cascade last 4 days of fermentation
Beersmith puts this at an estimated OG of 1.069, 80 IBU's, 7.8 ABV. My guess (research) tells me that the high IBU # will be offset somewhat by the body added by the munich malt.
Anyhow, it's my first, so if there are any glaring problems or suggestions, I'd love to hear them. ETA to mash-in is 36 hours!!!!
I wouldn't dry-hop during fermentation. Wait till you hit terminal, then go to town!
Otherwise, good luck!!!
With an OG of 1.069, I wouldn't worry too much about adding an additional yeast to aid fermentation, even at 6 gallons. WLP001 will handle that wort just fine. Plus, if you encounter off flavors you don't like, having one type of yeast will reduce your variables you need to eliminate.
If you have a secondary fermentation vessel, dry hop in your secondary instead of your primary. Then you don't have any worries about how long to keep your beer on the trub while it soaks up those hop flavors and aromas.
I'm a firm believer that everyone is entitled to his or her opinion, and that homebrewing is meant to be a creative hobby. However, to add my two cents, I think that five pounds of Munich might be a bit much. I've never tried this, nor can I claim to be any kind of authority (I've only been brewing since Oct 2011), but I think cutting that back and adding some crystal malt would be better.
Also, mashing at 148 is going to leave your IPA less malty and with less body than you would expect. Then again, I like a dry IPA like Ranger from New Belgium myself. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm saying that you ought to be aware of what you might be getting yourself into. You could end up with an overly bitter, thin, harsh beer.
My suggestion (not claiming I am 100% correct), would be to mash at 154 or even higher for an IPA with that grain bill.
Also, no need for the extra yeast. I would recommend a starter for this, but WLP001 can handle it.
I'm assuming that dry hopping during the last 4 days of fermentation means that you are going to toss in those Cascade hops 4 days before bottling/kegging, right? I agree that you shouldn't dry hop while actively fermenting, wait until the conditioning period.
Thanks for the feedback. Ranger is probably one of my favorites also, however I enjoy the DFH 90 occasionally too so was shooting for a little more malt backbone. As far as the yeast, I'll probably make a 2L starter then decant it off before adding it. Seems like adding 2L of starter wort might change the OG
And yes on the dryhopping. I'll rack to a secondary before the hops go in!
Simcoe is a wonderful aroma hop and not all that easy to come by, I'd say move all those additions to 20-0 minutes and/or dry hop, and use something a lot cheaper and prevalent for bittering, like Magnum, Warrior, Bravo, etc.
And if you like IPAs with more body, I agree with above, bump up your mash temp a little. Around 152-154*F should be a good starting point.
+1 on simcoe for bittering, and ditch the 30 minute addition for a 20 minute or less addition.
Munich may add a malty flavor, but I don't think it'll add body. It's not a crystal malt after all.
I'd definitely make a starter with the White Labs, or else use a rehydrated US-05 packet.
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