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Old 04-15-2010, 07:50 PM   #1
ChemEMc
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Default Maris Otter/Cascade SMaSH

Here is the recipe as I have planned it:

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP001/WLP007
Yeast Starter: NO
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.047
Final Gravity: 1.011
IBU: 29
Boiling Time (Minutes): 90
Color: 4.4 SRM
Efficiency: 75%
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7 @ 70F
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 @ 70F

Ingredients:
9.0 lbs Maris Otter

0.75 oz Cascade (7.5%) – 90min
1.0 oz Cascade (7.5%) – 20 min
1.0 oz Cascade (7.5%) – 0 min

1 tsp Whirloc (10 min)

1 ea WLP001/WLP007

Mash at 154F (medium body) (maybe lower for better attenuation)

SMaSH is pretty straight forward, and I'm sure this combo has been done numerous times, so any advice is welcomed. The only thing I could imagine being off is IBUs, not really sure what to put em at, seems like where they are should be good, though I don't want them too high as I am making this batch mostly to build up a yeast cake for a double black IPA (Stone SSR clone). I may dry hop if the urge strikes me. I am going for an easy drinkin/refreshing beer. So... any thoughts/advice for my first SMaSH?

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Old 04-16-2010, 07:45 AM   #2
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Looks mighty tasty mate!
I'd be tempted to move that 20min addition a bit later for more aroma & flavor.
Like:
1oz @ 10min
1oz @ 0min
You'd have to increase your bittering addition slightly.
Other than that, looks good!

Cheers, Jim

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Old 04-16-2010, 11:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricMc View Post
1 ea WLP001/WLP007
Blending yeast?

Re: IBUs, it looks like you aren't using Rager formula -- using Rager, I get 40 IBU! Also, I tend to percieve more bitterness in dry, small beers, so I'd probably back off quite a bit to target a more lawnmowerish thing.

I need to do another batch of a Broken Halo approximation to remind myself how awesome Cascade can be....
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:44 PM   #4
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Ironically I just did a MO/Cascade Smash yesterday. Almost your exact same recipe except I used Safale US-05. I do plan to dry hop a little as well.

I did a 2Row/Cascade Smash a few months back along the exact same lines, and it turned out to be one of my favorite beers to date.

Looking forward to seeing the difference MO makes.

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:17 PM   #5
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SMaSH brews are some of my favorites as well. MO will give "a little more" to the flavor profile but it's mostly a "richer" or "fuller" note to my taste.

It's fun to make such drinkable beer for what, $11 to $12 dollars a 5G batch, isn't it?

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #6
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I had decided against 2row because of some stuff i read on here suggesting it might be a bit too light by itself, might have to give it a try.
On IBU's; I used beersmith. I might back off to half an oz for bittering at 90 since I'm not going for a bitter beer; save some hops. And I'm not blending yeast, though that could be interesting, I'm just undecided on which yeast. The decision has more to do with the beer I will put on the cake than this beer. (SSR Clone: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/ston...y-clone-51521/)

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:22 PM   #7
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At my LHBS prices it's closer to 15-20, but yeah, still really cheap, especially when buying bulk hops off a vendor here.

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricMc View Post
At my LHBS prices it's closer to 15-20, but yeah, still really cheap, especially when buying bulk hops off a vendor here.
I use MO as my base grain for pretty much everything, so buying in 25kg sacks is the way to go. Same with buying hops in 1lb packs. Add some packets of SafAle dry yeast and you're ready to brew at the drop of a hat.

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Old 04-16-2010, 02:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricMc View Post
I had decided against 2row because of some stuff i read on here suggesting it might be a bit too light by itself, might have to give it a try.
On IBU's; I used beersmith. I might back off to half an oz for bittering at 90 since I'm not going for a bitter beer; save some hops. And I'm not blending yeast, though that could be interesting, I'm just undecided on which yeast. The decision has more to do with the beer I will put on the cake than this beer. (SSR Clone: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/ston...y-clone-51521/)
Seems like I may have used 10lbs of 2 Row instead of 9. Had a good malty flavor, not too light. I dry hopped with 2oz of Cascade on top of the bittering/aroma. It came out being a very refreshing beer with a nice citrus aroma and flavor.
It reminded me of Widmer's Drifter Pale Ale, though different hops etc. It didn't last long. I saved a few bottles and had some recently and the flavor profile mellowed some. Less hoppy, more malty.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:18 PM   #10
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Here's the one I brewed over 3 months ago. Enjoying it on tap right now!

SMaSH Cascade
10-A American Pale Ale
Author: Rob
Date: 12/28/09

Size: 6 gal
Efficiency: 84.0%
Attenuation: 79.0%
Calories: 165.57 kcal per 12.0 fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.050 (1.045 - 1.060)
Terminal Gravity: 1.011 (1.010 - 1.015)
Color: 5.0 (5.0 - 14.0)
Alcohol: 5.19% (4.5% - 6.2%)
Bitterness: 34.7 (30.0 - 45.0)

Ingredients:
10.0 lb Maris Otter Pale
1.0 oz Cascade (5.4%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.4%) - added during boil, boiled 45 min
1.0 oz Cascade (5.4%) - added during boil, boiled 5 min



Results generated by BeerTools Pro 1.5.7

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