The Great Bottle Opener Giveaway

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Recipes/Ingredients > IPA troubles

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-07-2011, 05:54 PM   #1
mccann51
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere, CA
Posts: 227
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Default IPA troubles

I've brewed three well-hopped brews thus far; the latest effort was intended to be an IPA, the previous two were IPA-style braggots w orange blossom honey. All have been slightly 'off' (in the same way), not bad, but there's always something missing from the hops and a there's always a peculiar taste (not attributable to the honey since it's in this latest batch as well). I won't even try to describe the taste, as my weak palate cannot figure out what it is (I've tried, I've really tried to pin it down, I just can't). Suffice to say it is not off-putting, but I'd prefer if it wasn't there.

My latest recipe for a 2.5 gal batch:
4.5 lbs Maris Otter or US 2-row (can't remember off the top of my head and don't have my brewlog)
0.5 lb crystal/caramel 60L
0.5 oz Chinook 60 mins
0.5 oz Centennial 20 mins
0.5 oz Chinook 15 mins
0.5 oz Centennial 10 mins
0.5 oz Chinook 5 mins
0.5 oz Centennial flameout
rehydrated Safale US-05
IBU 106
OG 1.049
Mashed in 3.5 gal at ~152F for 60 mins; mash-out at >160F for 20 mins.

Even with 106 IBUs, the ale does not come off as overly hoppy (if anything it tastes weak on hops). I BIAB and I think use no-chill, ie I don't have a wort chiller, I put my brewpot in a tub of unheated water. Probably takes about 10 to 15 mins to get down to about 80F (very rough estimate).

My thoughts on what could be going wrong w my hoppy brews:
1. the cool down time of the wort is too long, throwing off my hop schedule.
2. too much yeast in suspension; I'm notoriously impatient w bottling, and though not cloudy, none of my hoppy brews have been completely clear at bottling.
3. I'm not dry-hopping.

I know I've been vague in describing the issue with the beer, so perhaps some direct questions about taste profile could help me pick out what's wrong. Any other thoughts or comments about potential issues are greatly appreciated. I want to just be drinking what I brew, but I won't be able to if I can't figure out how to brew a good IPA!!!

__________________
mccann51 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 06:02 PM   #2
Pdeezy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley Ranch, TX
Posts: 279
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

What do you mean by unheated water? I use an icebath and it takes like 30 mins to get down to pitching temps, so if you're just using water it's probably not getting down low enough before you pitch. What is your pitching temp?

__________________

Next to Brew - Who knows...something with EKG

Primary - April's Amber

Bottled - Bee Cave IPA
Bottled - Apfelwein
Bottled - Dirty Blonde (BM's Blonde w/ 2X hops)
Bottled - Ed's Haus
Bottled - Hop Dread Red V1.0 (Red IPA)

Pdeezy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 06:03 PM   #3
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 60,044
Liked 4202 Times on 3059 Posts
Likes Given: 779

Default

One of the things that I can think of is that if you used .5 pounds of crystal malt, that's about 10%. That's ok, if you like a sweeter finish, but if you used maris otter malt you may have a too malty beer to really let the hops shine.

The hops schedule looks good, so that's not it!

What about your water? Sometimes I add a wee bit of gypsum to my hoppy beers to get them to get a crispness to them.

I'd suggest a more flocculant yeast (try S04, but at a cool temperature like 62 degrees to avoid an English-y ester profile), a light malt (even pilsner malt) instead of maris otter, and less crystal (5%). That will help rule out other issues.

__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
Yooper is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 06:04 PM   #4
Clonefarmer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Springfield, MA
Posts: 1,399
Liked 5 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

That's a really high IBU for a 1.049 beer. IPA style range is 40-60 IBU.

If you want more flavor and aroma from the hops add them late in the boil and cut back on the early additions. Dry hopping adds allot of flavor and aroma also.

__________________
"Just remember Scooty Puff Jr. sucks!"....Philip J. Fry
Clonefarmer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 07:34 PM   #5
daksin
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
daksin's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,093
Liked 271 Times on 237 Posts
Likes Given: 323

Default

IMHO, an IPA needs to be dry-hopped. You may just be missing out on that punch in the nose/tastebuds you get from a dryhopped IPA, as most of them are.

You may be right about the yeast, and I think Yoop's right about the crystal. If that's MO and 10% crystal, I think it would definitely be too malty for an IPA for my taste. Even without the MO, I might go to a slightly lighter crystal. That's my taste though, not what's causing your issue.

__________________

I can't be arsed to keep up this list of what's in the fermenters, but hey, check out the cool brewery I own!

twitter.com/2kidsbrewing .. facebook.com/2kidsbrewing .. 2kidsbrewing.com

daksin is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 08:22 PM   #6
mccann51
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere, CA
Posts: 227
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Default

By unheated water, I mean I just fill up my tub with non-heated water from the tap. I still let it cool a bit before pitching, but it gets funneled into the carboy through a fairly fine sieve, so I think hop-extraction from the few remaining particles of hop is gonna be nominal at that point.

As I'm thinking about it more, I'd guess it would be US 2-row and not Maris Otter. I was going for a nice clean IPA for this, so I can't imagine grabbing for the MO over 2-row at the brewstore. Assuming it is domestic 2-row, does this still mean I should lower the amount, the L of the crystal, or both?

So Safale-04 is more flocculent? I may give that a try; temp at my place should be good right now for reducing esters. How about Nottingham in terms of flocculation (just to keep options open), or would you not suggest it for an IPA at all?

For my next IPA, I will definitely be dry-hopping; I was drinking one of these last night, and I realized the lack of aroma may be playing a big factor in the perceived hoppiness.

How much gypsum should I add? When and how is it being added? How big of an effect does it have?

In terms of the IBUs, I didn't calculate them til last night (first time I'd ever calculated IBUs, actually), so I had no idea how much I was putting in when I brewed this.

Thanks for all the advice, everybody!

__________________
mccann51 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 08:28 PM   #7
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 60,044
Liked 4202 Times on 3059 Posts
Likes Given: 779

Default

As far as water, you really need to know where you're starting to know how much of anything to add. What is your current water supply profile, if you know it?

I'd cut the crystal to 5%, but you may want to consider leaving it out and using something else. My favorite IPA is 97% two-row, and 3% amber malt (or biscuit malt, or victory malt-whatever I have on hand). That's 6 ounces of amber malt in a 5 gallon batch.

Nottingham would be fine to use, too, IF you kept it under 64 degrees!

__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
Yooper is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 09:26 PM   #8
mccann51
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere, CA
Posts: 227
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Starting with Brita purified water (the water quality is terrible here).

So you abstain from the caramelly-sweet crystal malts and go more biscuity-malty? That's good to hear since my next IPA I was gonna try some Munich sans crystal.

__________________
mccann51 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 09:44 PM   #9
Pdeezy
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Valley Ranch, TX
Posts: 279
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mccann51 View Post
By unheated water, I mean I just fill up my tub with non-heated water from the tap. I still let it cool a bit before pitching, but it gets funneled into the carboy through a fairly fine sieve, so I think hop-extraction from the few remaining particles of hop is gonna be nominal at that point.
Do you know what temp you pitch at? High pitching temps can cause some off flavors as well.
__________________

Next to Brew - Who knows...something with EKG

Primary - April's Amber

Bottled - Bee Cave IPA
Bottled - Apfelwein
Bottled - Dirty Blonde (BM's Blonde w/ 2X hops)
Bottled - Ed's Haus
Bottled - Hop Dread Red V1.0 (Red IPA)

Pdeezy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-07-2011, 11:45 PM   #10
mccann51
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere, CA
Posts: 227
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Default

No, but I pitch at around the same temp (I think blood warm is the correct term) for everything, and it's only in the hoppy brews that I've noticed the flavor.

__________________
mccann51 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
RIS IBU Troubles tlw08 Recipes/Ingredients 4 09-09-2009 01:14 PM
hazelnut flavor troubles BBB Recipes/Ingredients 2 04-01-2005 01:04 PM