 |
|
06-13-2011, 01:27 AM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,525
|
How to burn up a pound of cascade? Recipe suggestions welcomed
|
|
I am looking to brew something on Fathers Day this year and I want to burn up a pound of whole cone cascade hops. I do 10 gallon batches. IPA is the obvious choice, but i want to switch it up for this one. Maybe an imperial brown?
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 01:58 AM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: OH
Posts: 1,454
|
Ken Schramm's "Hefty Braggot" might be a novel alternative. If you make it now, it ought to be ridiculously good by the time cold weather hits again. If you do try this, don't use the wine yeast as he recommends. I did that the first time I made this with bad results (stuck at 1.052). Scottish ale yeast is perfect for this recipe. Just mash a couple degrees lower and it all comes out just fine.
__________________
Don't worry, be hoppy.
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 02:31 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,427
|
Whenever I have hops to burn, I just put them in my chimney charcoal ignitor and let-er-rip.
That braggot sounds good, though.
__________________
"I can't believe how many people think Air Lock is pronounced Hydrometer." -BigKahuna
"If you gave me a beer with placenta in it without telling me I would kick you in the nuts." -ODaniel
Check out my recipe blog Acute Cuisine for beer, food, food made with beer and beer made with food.
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 02:37 AM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 186
|
I've read The Compleat Meadmaker, but haven't made the Hefty Braggot recipe. It looks real good though. It calls for 5oz of Cascade, but he says you can double the additions if you love hops. So +1 on that.
Along these same lines, you can go for really nice and hoppy Barleywine. Similar to a dIPA, but more malt forward and different enough to be considered. Plus, because the malt profile is so intense and you have to age it so long, you can hop the hell out of it. Some 2-row or Maris Otter and a healthy amount of Munich and Crystal and you're in business.
I've never made an all Cascade Imperial Stout (I like to mix with Northern Brewer), but you might be able to use a small chunk of that pound making one. I imagine this would work well in your proposed Imperial Brown as well, as Cascade really melds well in those roasty, chocolatey beers.
Or I can PM you my address and you can send them to me  .
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 02:37 AM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,012
|
Hmmm, I had a beer from a cask at a local craft-brew hot spot down here in the south that used Cascade only. It was an excellent beer, maybe because I paid premium for it? Heh, anyhow, it's one of those all-purpose hops that I don't think you can go wrong.
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 03:11 AM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,427
|
There's always a hop-bursted extra pale ale.
__________________
"I can't believe how many people think Air Lock is pronounced Hydrometer." -BigKahuna
"If you gave me a beer with placenta in it without telling me I would kick you in the nuts." -ODaniel
Check out my recipe blog Acute Cuisine for beer, food, food made with beer and beer made with food.
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 01:32 PM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,525
|
Hopbursting will surely be part of the equation, I think I want something in that 1.070 to 1.090 OG, this really isn't even a style I guess, but what about double pale ale? Like an IPA, but just not as dried out with a little balance towards malt with an OG at 1.070 and use some english yeast?
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 02:31 PM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 186
|
An IPA is technically the step up from a pale ale. Pale ale style guidelines are what keep it a pale ale, i.e. gravity usually below 1.060 and a bu:gu ratio to match. Bring the gravity and IBU's up and you just have an IPA.
Or, are you talking about keeping a ~40-45 IBU beer but pumping up the gravity and making it more malt forward and unbalanced in the sense of bitterness? Remember, when you hop burst the resulting beer is not as bitter. A 45 IBU bittering addition will be much stronger and last longer than a 45 IBU 20 minute addition. I'm not telling you not to brew what you describe, just trying to figure out the method behind it. Best part about homebrewing is brewing what you want 
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 07:13 PM
|
#9
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,525
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SethMasterFlex
An IPA is technically the step up from a pale ale. Pale ale style guidelines are what keep it a pale ale, i.e. gravity usually below 1.060 and a bu:gu ratio to match. Bring the gravity and IBU's up and you just have an IPA.
Or, are you talking about keeping a ~40-45 IBU beer but pumping up the gravity and making it more malt forward and unbalanced in the sense of bitterness?
|
This is correct. Like maybe a single 10 oz charge at 10-15 minutes. Then the last 6 oz for dry hopping.
Two Row
Munich
C40
C60
victory
WLP007
etc..etc....
|
|
|
06-13-2011, 10:24 PM
|
#10
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 186
|
Looks really good to me. I love Victory in pales and IPAs. Cascade blends really well with crystal 60 too. I say just pump the IBUs a little as I mentioned before to compensate for bitterness loss. Please let us know if you brew this and how it turns out as I'm highly interested.
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
|