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Old 08-22-2010, 08:36 PM   #1
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Default First Non-Kit Brew: Hopslam

I've read the hopslam clone thread, wonderful information there. I'm about to click "Proceed to Checkout" and want to get some quick feedback from experts like yourselves. Beerwise, I've only brewed kits before, all extract with specialty grains.

5.5 gallon batch to be bottle conditioned.

6 lbs Pilsen LME
2 pounds sourwood honey
1 oz Centennial 60 min
1 oz Glacier 15 min
1 oz Amarillo 10 min
1 oz Amarillo 0 min
1 oz Simcoe 0 min
1 oz Simcoe dry hop 5 days before bottling.

Munton Ale Yeast

All hops are pellets, so my understanding is they are a little stronger by weight than loose hops.

Note there are no specialty grains in this, just the Pilsen LME which has some carapils content according to the vendor, I just don't know what that content is.

Any info you can toss my way is much appreciated.

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Old 08-23-2010, 02:29 AM   #2
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Any particular reason for the Munton's ale yeast?

TB

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Old 08-23-2010, 09:45 PM   #3
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It is cheap, and I remember reading it's mild, doesn't leave much of it's own flavor around. I don't know if that's true though.

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Old 08-23-2010, 10:01 PM   #4
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If you can just culture some yeast from Bell's Pale ale.

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Old 08-23-2010, 10:33 PM   #5
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The correspondence from Bell's in the Hopslam thread suggests any decent yeast will do, good attenuation and not a wheat beer yeast.

My real question is about the LME, should I go all Pilsen or will it not have enough malt profile in the final product? Should i mix 50/50 gold and pilsen? I definately want a yellow beer in the final product. I've never used pilsen malt so I don't know how much a profile it has, or if the lightness is more about color.

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Old 08-23-2010, 10:54 PM   #6
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You won't taste the malt anyway- that beer is all about the hops! I'm not sure what you're planning for an OG, but I'd go with an OG of 1.090 or so.

I'd definitely NOT use the Muntons, since you really want this beer to attenuate- down to 1.012 or so. I'd use two packages of a good quality well attenuating dry yeast (11 gram packages) like SO5. Make sure you aerate very well, to get enough yeast reproduction to fully attenuate.

I don't think 6 pounds of LME is enough. I'd go with 10 pounds LME. I'd add 3/4 of the extract late in the boil. I'd make sure there were enough hops- probably at least 100+ IBUs and plenty of late hopping. You don't have enough hops for Hopslam.

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Old 08-23-2010, 11:12 PM   #7
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I don't think upping the IBUs is the way to go unless Bells is lying. I actually have the clone thread bookmarked and on page 2 post 19 we get this. "Bitterness is in the upper 60 IBU range, less than most people think. Hopslam is all about hop flavor, not unrestrained bitterness."

So to me it sounds like LOTS of late addition hops.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/hops...17/index2.html

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Old 08-23-2010, 11:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YooperBrew View Post
I'd definitely NOT use the Muntons, since you really want this beer to attenuate- down to 1.012 or so. I'd use two packages of a good quality well attenuating dry yeast (11 gram packages) like SO5. Make sure you aerate very well, to get enough yeast reproduction to fully attenuate.
I definitely agree with this. That's why I asked about the Muntons yeast since I didn't think it would emulate the attenuation that Hopslam gets from its yeast (although I thought maybe you chose it for a specific reason). Follow Yooper's advice and you'll get your gravity down the way Larry Bell does.

Quote:
I'd make sure there were enough hops- probably at least 100+ IBUs and plenty of late hopping. You don't have enough hops for Hopslam.
I agree that you don't have enough hops, but Hopslam isn't an overly bitter beer, so I would think 100 IBU's might be overdoing it. It would certainly be a good beer, but not shadowing the bitterness profile of Hopslam. Focus your hops more towards the end of the boil including a generous portion of flame-out hops.

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Originally Posted by smokinghole View Post
I don't think upping the IBUs is the way to go unless Bells is lying. I actually have the clone thread bookmarked and on page 2 post 19 we get this. "Bitterness is in the upper 60 IBU range, less than most people think. Hopslam is all about hop flavor, not unrestrained bitterness."

So to me it sounds like LOTS of late addition hops.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/hops...17/index2.html
Exactly my thoughts. I haven't cloned this beer, although I do love it, so I can't say with any authority or experience what exactly to do.

I think you'll end up with a good beer either way you go. It may or may not taste like Hopslam, but I'm sure it will be a hit.

Keep us posted!
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Bottled:
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Kegged & conditioning:
Imperial Bourbon Barrel Oatmeal Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Dry Stout x2, Cali Common x2
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:52 PM   #9
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6 lbs Pilsen LME
3 lbs Gold LME
1 pound sourwood honey

1 oz Centennial 60 min 9.1 AA
1 oz Glacier 15 min 6 AA
.5 oz Amarillo 10 min 8.2 AA
1 oz Amarillo 2 min
.5 oz Cascade 2 min
1 oz Simcoe 2 min
1 oz Simcoe dry hop 5 days before bottling
.5 oz Cascade dry hop 5 days before bottling
.5 oz Amarillo dry hop 5 days before bottling

Two Packs S05. Ferment right at 70F with good initial aeration.



I don't know how to calculate IBU's, but it seems like a boil with an ounce of Centennial Pellets for an hour, then 1.5 oz of other hops for 10-15 minutes, should be plenty bitter. It's definately alot more hops than I've ever brewed with before. I'm not a big fan of bitter hops, and the thing I liked about Hopslam was that it wasn't very bitter.

More importantly, why should most of the malt be added near the end?

Thanks!

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Old 08-24-2010, 12:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch78 View Post
6 lbs Pilsen LME
3 lbs Gold LME
1 pound sourwood honey

1 oz Centennial 60 min 9.1 AA
1 oz Glacier 15 min 6 AA
.5 oz Amarillo 10 min 8.2 AA
1 oz Amarillo 2 min
.5 oz Cascade 2 min
1 oz Simcoe 2 min
1 oz Simcoe dry hop 5 days before bottling
.5 oz Cascade dry hop 5 days before bottling
.5 oz Amarillo dry hop 5 days before bottling

Two Packs S05. Ferment right at 70F with good initial aeration.



I don't know how to calculate IBU's, but it seems like a boil with an ounce of Centennial Pellets for an hour, then 1.5 oz of other hops for 10-15 minutes, should be plenty bitter. It's definately alot more hops than I've ever brewed with before. I'm not a big fan of bitter hops, and the thing I liked about Hopslam was that it wasn't very bitter.

More importantly, why should most of the malt be added near the end?

Thanks!
You could try some free brewing software- you certainly don't have enough IBUs to call that an IIPA.

The others say that Bell's isn't as high in IBUs and I think it is- they may be right. But keep in mind that it's all about balance. With an OG of 1.080 (which is where I would peg Hopslam), an IBU of less than 75 will NOT be an IIPA. I'd guess that it's higher than the others say. Keep in mind that with a BIG beer, you need more hops just to balance the malt.

In your recipe, you have an OG of 1.070 and IBUs of about 40ish. Not even close to balanced towards hops. You barely have enough bittering hops for an APA.

I'd go with an OG of 1.080 (or higher, since Hopslam is 10%) and add some hops.
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