Matt Up North

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I have a friend that would like an IPA that is hoppy and balanced. I told him that I would help him out and he could help me brew. I am planning a 10 gallon batch up and have been told that you want about the same IBU as Gravity, though I am thinking of using more IBU's. I want to make a beer that he would like to drink (hophead) and that I would like to drink (non IPA drinker) so I went with the creamy Flaked Barley to make it a little smoother.

Test Pilot IPA

OG-1.070
FG- 1.017
IBU-74
SRM- 10

80% 24lbs Maris Otter
6.7% 1.5lbs Crystal 60L
6.7% 2lbs Flaked Barley
6.7% 2lbs Victory Malt

Warrior 2oz 60min
Cascade 1oz 15min
Cascade 1 oz 10min
Cascade 4oz 5min

Cascade 2oz Dry Hopped

Irish Moss
US-05 2 packets

154 mash temp, 90 minute boil to ferment for around a week at 66*f and then into a keg to carbonate and then bottle up for the friend and into the fridge on tap for me.

Any thoughts on the hopping schedule. I want bitter balance and super hop aroma. I haven't done dry hopping yet and don't really want to start with this beer. I need to get an idea of what the beer tastes like prior to dry hopping it. The warrior is the only way I could get the IBU's without using another 4 oz of cascade. I haven't ever used Warrior though so really this is new ground.


EDIT: To change the hops to something a little more simple and less bittering, and lowered the C60 to 1.5#
EDIT#2: Added Dry Hopping schedule and changed the 30min addition to a 10min

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Yooper

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My first thought is that may be a bit too much crystal. Crystal can really be out of place in an IPA, if not bitter enough to balance. I'd cut that a bit.

Secondly, I'd use warrior for bittering, and not the cascade. Warrior is a great high AAU bittering hop, and I think cascade at 90 minutes is a waste of cascade. I wouldn't use warrior at 10 minutes, either. It's too "big" and harsh to me for that. Use it only for bittering, in my opinion.

I know you said you're not a hophead, but with no additions after 10 minutes, you're looking at a very bitter non-hoppy beer. (I don't know the IBUs, I didn't run it through my software). I'd definitely move many of those hops additions to later, and some at flame out.

Why a 90 minute boil? You don't get much more hops utilization, so I'd start the boil at 60, unless you had a pressing reason for the 90 minute boil.

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Matt Up North

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quick edit of hop schedule and crystal reduction

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BeernuT100

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That schedule looks a lot better, i was just throwing it in to beersmith.

The only thing I would suggest is possibly doing 2 oz's at 5 and 2 oz's at 0.


Cascades are

-bn

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Yooper

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Better! But I'd still take out the 30 minute addition, and use it for later. 0 minute additions would be good.

Did you run this through any software? You want to keep the IBU/Sg ratio in a decent IPA range without making it lean too far one way or the other.

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cuinrearview

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Your recipe looks fine, but as stated above without a dry-hop your friend will be disappointed. We want the hops to jump from the glass and throttle us before we even take a taste. At the very least drop that last cascade addition in half and add 2oz. to secondary. An equal amount of centennial would be even better.

Don't be afraid of dry-hopping. Just dump them from the vacu-pac into secondary and rack on them. Your beer is already done fermenting and the alcohol will keep out all nasties.

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Matt Up North

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I read some other people say to use either a nylon bag, tea ball or something of that sort for the dry hopping. If I do dry hop and use cascade, two oz of pellets for how long? Or should I go with whole leaf?

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cuinrearview

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Leaf or pellet would be fine. I just dump mine in and siphon under(leaf) or off(pellet) them at bottling time. One to two weeks will be fine!

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Matt Up North

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I'm going with pellets then and will add them after primary. Or should I leave it in primary a couple weeks, add the dry hop to the primary for a week and then rack into a keg? Or should I use one of those filter housings and push the beer through it? So many options...

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Yooper

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I'd let it ferment out. Then, either rack to secondary onto the dryhops, or add them at that point. Wait a week, then rack to the keg.

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