kcpup

Recipes 

Hi -

I have really grown to love APA's. I was a long courtship, but I'm now truly in love. Bordering on obsession.

I travel to Salt Lake City frequently for work. I am just crazy about Wyld Extra Pale Ale. It's a session strength (4%) beer, lovely color, and pleasantly hoppy (IBU of 29).

Help! I've written the brewery...no luck.

I brewed Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde and dry hopped with Cascade to see if that was close...it was good, but not close. Color is lighter, not hoppy enough even with dry hopping, and not as much malt coming through. Here's that recipe:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/#post420400


Below is a link to the brewery's description of the beer. Lovely hop aroma, nice bitterness, clean finish, malt balanced and detectable. My v.1 keg is 1/2 gone(Centennial Blonde with dry hopping), so I need to start working on v.2.
Any thoughts on a second try at getting closer to this one?

http://www.uintabrewing.com/FourBeersView.aspx?Page=WYLD

According to the brewery, ABV is 4%, SRM is 9, and IBU is 29.

They distribute to a number of states. If you like APA's, give this one a try. It is a lovely session beer with so much flavor.

The Centennial Blonde was the first APA I've brewed. I'm not schooled on what to tweak...Thanks for any thoughts.

Oldsock

Recipes 

I've made a couple hoppy, low gravity pale ales that I've reeally enjoyed (haven't tried that one yet though). There aren't a huge number of Organic malts available, so that narrows down what they use: http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Organics.htm

You could certainly up the bitterness of the Blonde to 30 and swap out the C10 for C60 to get a bit more color and a deeper caramel flavor. You could also up the Vienna, or swap it for Munihc if you want more toasty/bready malt flavor.

How much Cascade did you add for the dry hop? If it was less than 2 oz I would up it. I also think an ounce or two of hops at the end of the boil would be a nice addition as well to boost the aromatics.

Hope that sends you in the right direction.

__________________
Check out The Mad Fermentationist for my adventures in fermentation (cheese, bread, ginger beer plant, and of course plenty of funky beer).

kcpup

Recipes 

Oldsock -

Thank you so much for the ideas...just what I was looking for. I had not considered the organic angle and how that would affect where they'd source ingredients. I haven't cared about the organic part, just the flavor. It is a good way to isolate options, though.

I used 1 oz Cascade for dry hop. I can up that easy.

I was thinking about doing the Munich swap, so your suggestion confirms that's worth a try.

I appreciate the suggestion of a flameout addition - it is worth a try.

Thanks again - this will help me work on v2.0!

Oldsock

Recipes 

Let me know how it turns out, when I do these I tend to kill it with hops (the last one had 2 oz each of Citra and Chinook at 0 and dry hop).

__________________
Check out The Mad Fermentationist for my adventures in fermentation (cheese, bread, ginger beer plant, and of course plenty of funky beer).

kcpup

Recipes 

Will do, Old Sock! It will be a bit, because I'm brewing a Wit next...my buddy wanted some for his upcoming birthday party.

I'll post back once I've settled on recipe/hop schedule, and again after kegging.

jonesallu

Recipes 

kcpup,

Did you ever find a recipe that was close for the Wyld? I'm trying to find something close myself and was wondering how your experimentation went? It's a great brew.

Thanks,
jonesallu

kcpup

Recipes 

Hi, Jonesallu.
I have been through a number of iterations and I got some good info about grain bill and hops. I'm on a business trip but when I return I'll share my progress. More to come.

kcpup

Recipes 

Here are my iterations.
1. Brewed Biermuncher's Centennial Blonde and upped IBUs to around 29 (like Wyld). I knew this wouldn't be a clone, but thought I'd use that grain bill as a jumping off point. Decent beer, not Wyld.
2. Brewed similar grain bill with all Cascade. Decent beer, not Wyld.
3. Felt stuck. Went to homebrew store in SLC. He didn't know Wyld info, but called someone he knew at Uinta. I got this information:
Grain
American 2 row
Crystal 15L
Dextrine malt
Hops
bittering - Cascade
flavor,aroma - Simcoe

He had run out of American 2 row earlier in the day (crazy huh?). Anyway, I bought and brewed the following:
10 lb American Pale Ale malt
1 lb Dextrine malt
.25 lb Crystal 15L

I knew the following - it wouldn't make the SRM number on Uinta's website (SRM 9). That's what he had at the store, and I'd rather be a bit light than too carmely. Brewed that - hops sooo much closer. Did most of IBUs with Cascade. Closer, tasty, still not Wyld.

4. Before I had gotten that info from the SLC brewstore, I had already purchased another grain bill based on advice from this thread. Old Sock had made some recommendations. Tonight I brewed that grain bill and the following hops schedule:
4.5 lb Organic American 2 row
12 oz Dextrine malt
2 lb Munich
10 oz Crystal 60L

.5 oz 5.4% Cascade @60
.5 oz 11.9% Simcoe @20
Will dry hop with 2 oz Simcoe

That's around 24 IBU, with around half coming from each hop varietal. Last time most went with Cascade. SRM shows around 8.

For all iterations I've used Pacman yeast from Wyeast, not grown from dregs. The first two iterations were in low-mid 60's, 3rd iteration was high 60's and peaked around 70 [basement temps]. I'm going to try to keep the temp in mid 60's if possible.

So, there's my Wyld adventure so far. I'll let you know how #4 turns out.

I have another grain bill on tap but won't brew that until #4 batch runs out.

Summary:
Haven't teased out proper grain bill, but the Cascade-Simcoe combo is Wyld-like.

Cheers

jonesallu

Recipes 

Thank you very much for posting. I'll ponder your post and will likely have some questions for you.

jonesallu

Recipes 

Thank you for your previous post. Can you please post anything you learned on your 4th iteration?

Now for my questions. My apologies for some of these being too basic, but I've been away from brewing for a couple of decades and starting to get back into it again. I hope the beer gods don't rust my kettles...

I'm assuming the "@60" and "@20" are the times in the boil, correct?

I'm also assuming the numbers after you mention the Pacman from Wyeast are fermentation temps, correct?

Do you batch sparge or continuous sparge? Do you dry hop with pellets, plugs or leaf? I know these might be debatable but I'm interested in what has worked for you (I'm getting too old to experiment).

I think all the rest makes sense. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.