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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Recipes/Ingredients > Double IPA Recipe - Come in and leave your $0.02!
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:44 AM   #1
WDT
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Default Double IPA Recipe - Come in and leave your $0.02!

I'm in the process of tooling around with a recipe and wanted to get some feedback/suggestions.

Want to use Cascade and Centennials because I have a bunch of them. Would this be too much for a double IPA? With my efficiency (70-75%) i'd end up around 1.075. I can usually get 05 to attenuate around 80-85% which means an 8-8.5% beer.



This is for a 11 gallon batch.


Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
8 oz American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt)
1.5 lb Canadian - Honey Malt
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose

Thinking of subbing the honey malt for crystal 20?????


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 15 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 15 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 10 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 10 min

1 oz Centennial - Boil 5 min
1 oz Cascade - Boil 5 min

3 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
3 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand for 20-30 min before chilling.


3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 7 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 7 days

Safale 05 or WLP001

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Old 10-04-2013, 01:03 AM   #2
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I would lower the honey malt, or get rid of it personally. I think you'll find a pound and a half being to much. A double IPA should be a showcase of hops not malt. I would also double the dry hops and do two four day dry hops. I have been told the dry hops are better utilized this way. I don't know how but it seems to hold true for me. I would take the 15 minute addition and move it to 45 the 10 minutes to 30 and the 5 minute to flamout. just my .02 cents

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Old 10-04-2013, 01:35 AM   #3
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If it were me i would do this

16 lb pale
1 lb wheat
1 lb munich
1 lb crystal 10L
1.5 lbs corn sugar

if fell the need to add honey malt use .25lb
and add a 30 min bittering addition and split your dry hop into two 4 days session
mash at 152/154

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Old 10-04-2013, 02:20 AM   #4
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Yeah, get rid of the honey malt. I would have 1lb of Crystal 40, myself. 1.5lbs would work also, though.

I like the hop schedule - I wouldn't change a thing. It will taste and smell great.

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Old 10-04-2013, 02:53 AM   #5
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I would also suggest getting rid of all the Honey Malt, and CaraPils. I'd mash low and long, maybe with an oz of C.T.Z in the mash or FWH. And lastly, I would not add any hops at 15,10,5 mins, save those 6oz for later. I'm a hop head, and even that sounds like overkill to me. Use some of those leftover hops, for a double dry hop.

Keep the flameout addition, But steep them for at least 30-45 mins around 160*F.

For Yeast, I like WLP007 for my IPAs. It ferments quicker, and cleans up faster. Meaning, I can drink it faster.

There's my 2 cents...

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Old 10-04-2013, 03:09 AM   #6
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IMHO all late addition hops are for are aroma and you lose that while you boil them. So why even boil them? A brewery usually used 1 to 3 pounds of dry hops per barrel which would be 5-16 ounces of hops in a 11 gallon beer. I really recommend upping the dry hops at the very least. I try not to use more than 10% of any speciality grains in my big IPA's. I like them to dry out and finish around 1.010 and definitely under 1.015. Depending on the grain bill I mash between 148-150 to insure good attenuation.

If you don't feel like you are going to get enough malt character use an English Ale yeast instead of US-05 or WLP001. WLP007 is a good choice.

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Old 10-04-2013, 06:13 PM   #7
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Thanks for all the suggestions... i'm going to make some changes.

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30-40 min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

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Old 10-04-2013, 06:40 PM   #8
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The only change I may make would be add more hops for flavoring and bittering or take 1 ounce of each flame out addition and add it in at 60 or 45 minutes. But honestly I think you will be really pleased with the recipe you listed. I would mash around 148-150 to get it down to around 1.012, according to beersmith anyway. Let us know how it turns out!

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Old 10-04-2013, 06:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WDT View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions... i'm going to make some changes.

Fermentables
20 lb American - Pale 2-Row
4 lb American - White Wheat
1 lb American Light Munich (8-10L)
1 lb Crystal 20
2.5 lb Corn Sugar - Dextrose


Hops

3 oz Columbus - Boil 60 min

4 oz Cascade - Boil 0 min
4 oz Centennial - Boil 0 min

Hopstand 30-40 min before chilling.

1st
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days

2nd
3 oz Centennial - Dry Hop 4 days
3 oz Cascade - Dry Hop 4 days
These guys are nuts don't listen to them! Some of my best beers have had lots of Honey Malt. I know i'm in the minority here but i say you add the 1.5 lbs of honey malt back in and don't do any stupid Crystal malt. Mash at 150. Honey Malt and lots of hops go together AWESOME! Just my .02
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:09 PM   #10
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Well it depends on what kind of IPA's you like I guess. Like I said I like my IPA's to be a showcase of hops, a dry finish and an explosion of hop character. Some people like IPA's with more balance and sweeter malt character. The difference is what people refer to when the mention west coast IPA's and East Coast IPA's most of the time, other times it's the hop selections. I guess I was assuming you liked west coast IPA's since your from CA. It's all up for you to decide. Do you like IPA's from Stone or Dogfish Head?

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