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Old 05-04-2012, 02:00 AM   #1
thamajam
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Default DIPA - First Attempt

Any thoughts?

OG: 1091

Grain:
14lbs Rahr 2-row
1lb White Wheat
1lb Corn Sugar
.5lb Crystal 40L

Hops:
2oz - Warrior - 90mins
2oz - Centennial - 60mins
1oz - Chinook - 45mins
1oz - Centennial - 30mins
2oz - Cascade - 5mins
1oz - Centennial - 0mins
3oz - Cascade - Dry
2oz - Centennial - Dry

Yeast:
2 packets of 1056

Mash:
150deg

Boil:
Full 90mins
Straining with a mesh bag after cooling/going into the fermenter

Just looking for any opinions or suggestions before I get this bad boy going on National Homebrew Day.

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Old 05-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #2
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Boil size / Batch size / Kettle size?

Looks similar to the Pliny clone with wheat instead of carapils and a few hop subsitutions. I say give it more wheat / less 2-row to make it a little different. Try to lower the FG to .10 - .14.

A little heavy handed on the bittering as is I think. Get your bittering on point with one or two additions and then focus on blasting this with more late addition hops.

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Old 05-04-2012, 12:46 PM   #3
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Boil size / Batch size / Kettle size?

Looks similar to the Pliny clone with wheat instead of carapils and a few hop subsitutions. I say give it more wheat / less 2-row to make it a little different. Try to lower the FG to .10 - .14.

A little heavy handed on the bittering as is I think. Get your bittering on point with one or two additions and then focus on blasting this with more late addition hops.
Agreed...spilt that warrior addition into the 90 and 60...move the centennial addition from 60 to 20. Centennial has such a good aroma/flavor, it really needs to be displayed!
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:50 PM   #4
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This was initially based off a variation of the Pliny recipe and yes modified a little bit.

Alright I'll try to move some of those additions down. What do you think of moving half of the Warrior addition to First Wort (.5oz Warrior - FW, .5oz Warrior - 60min. It could differentiate it a bit by muting that sharp hop bite a bit (or so I understand).

Also, what would you think of swapping out the 1lb of corn sugar for 1lb of honey? I am looking to differentiate the beer as you said, but really also trying to get a better handle on hops. We tend to be pretty stout heavy in our "operation". I would reduce some 2-row and add more wheat if I could, but me being an idiot I mixed them together in the shop at grind (d'oh).

Boil: 7.7gal
Batch (final): 5gal
Kettle: 10gal capacity

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Old 05-04-2012, 04:51 PM   #5
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Sorry I meant 1oz of Warrior - FW and 1oz - 60min.

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by thamajam View Post
This was initially based off a variation of the Pliny recipe and yes modified a little bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thamajam View Post
I am looking to differentiate the beer as you said, but really also trying to get a better handle on hops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thamajam View Post
Just looking for any opinions or suggestions before I get this bad boy going on National Homebrew Day.
If you want to win a competition and get those points for uniqueness... a Pliny Clone will not get you there. Everyone and their mother brews a Pliny clone and very few hit the mark.

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What do you think of moving half of the Warrior addition to First Wort (.5oz Warrior - FW, .5oz Warrior - 60min. It could differentiate it a bit by muting that sharp hop bite a bit (or so I understand).
It depends on what you want. If you want a potent and inherently bitter DIPA like Pliny, then I wouldn't bother with FWH. If you want a more mild, tameable, rounded bitterness then go for it. Some brewers do FWH and also add a seperate bittering addition... it's up to you. One thing I would do though is blast this beer with a good deal of mid-flameout and dryhop additions.

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Also, what would you think of swapping out the 1lb of corn sugar for 1lb of honey?
Again, it depends if you want the honey flavor/sweetness or the dryness and floral character sans the sweetness and noticeable honey flavor. I would use 3-6% honey malt for the subtle sweet flavor and real honey for a drier, floral quality. If you're going the latter route, you'll need more honey. But the real trick is "how" you add the honey and what type of honey you use.
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:20 PM   #7
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If you want to win a competition and get those points for uniqueness... a Pliny Clone will not get you there. Everyone and their mother brews a Pliny clone and very few hit the mark.



It depends on what you want. If you want a potent and inherently bitter DIPA like Pliny, then I wouldn't bother with FWH. If you want a more mild, tameable, rounded bitterness then go for it. Some brewers do FWH and also add a seperate bittering addition... it's up to you. One thing I would do though is blast this beer with a good deal of mid-flameout and dryhop additions.



Again, it depends if you want the honey flavor/sweetness or the dryness and floral character sans the sweetness and noticeable honey flavor. I would use 3-6% honey malt for the subtle sweet flavor and real honey for a drier, floral quality. If you're going the latter route, you'll need more honey. But the real trick is "how" you add the honey and what type of honey you use.
Ok so here is what I'm thinking. I would like a more rounded bitterness so I'm going to go the route of FWH. I'm going to drop the corn sugar in favor of 2lbs of fresh honey added to the boil (end?). I'm also going to add another .5lb of either flaked wheat or white wheat malt.

What do you think? Thanks much for the constructive criticism.
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:34 PM   #8
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I'd keep the good quality honey between 8-15% of the grist and add it when the wort is approx. 150 F during whirlpool. Though some people add it during high krausen or secondary with no sanitiation issues. More white or red wheat is good.

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:36 PM   #9
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Bottle with honey...you can get a nice initial flavor and aroma from it.

To get the standard 2.5 vols carb you want to use 3 tablespoons of honey PER GALLON. This is 1.5 ounces or about 63 grams. So for a 5 gallon batch you would use 7.5 ounces of honey or 15 tablespoons (slightly under a cup...liquid). I personally use 4 per gallon as I like them slightly more carbed.

They will take slightly longer to carb...I use 16oz bottles and found 4 weeks to be about right.

This will be subtle but it will allow you to use less honey malt and be able to open up your grain bill more

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Old 05-04-2012, 05:37 PM   #10
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He wants to get dryness from it. You won't really get that with 6-7 oz. honey in the bottling bucket as opposed to 8-15% in the total recipe pre-fermentation. Also, 2.5 vol carb is kinda high for an IPA. I go 1.8-2.1 vol carb with corn sugar at 2-1/2 weeks and I still get a good deal of carbonation. The hop aromas aren't washed away as much by the CO2 bubbles when you stay on the low to moderate side of carbonation. Plus, you get an improved mouthfeel that isn't to thin for a DIPA.

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