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Old 04-13-2012, 06:08 PM   #521
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Originally Posted by Jsmith82 View Post
I purposely stopped and landed my beer in the 16% range, it's wonderful. You could take it higher and the body and hops will back you up especially if you brewed SL's adjusted clone with the extra hops. Let's face it, that's a lot of hops!

I do feel though 16% made a balanced end result for me, 20+ is a little gimmicky - it's fun to brew and the priceless look on someones face when you pour them a pint then warn them the one beer has the same effect as a six pack of bud light is sweet, but even the potential behind a real DFH120 in the end seems blinded by the amount of alcohol in it especially as it warms in your glass.

I'll probably brew a 3gal batch and try to take it as high as it can go but for 5-7 gallons of this expensive time consuming monster, 15-17% is a safe tasty range (IMO).
Alright you guys sold me. Crashing this beeotch this evening after work. Should be back to 1.008-1.010 by then (16.8 - 17.1%). Or would it be better just to let it finish on its own to allow for yeast cleanup activities?

I just can't believe I got this much out of only using 2L starters for both the 1056 and the 099. I usually have a problem with under-attenuation. Now I can't stop the biggest dragon I've ever tried to slay (brew).

Also, after the volume loss (6 gallons at start of boil) between boil-off, SL's hop boil schedule, trub, yeast cake and SL's dry hop schedule, I think I'll be lucky to have 3 - 3.25 gallons left to keg/bottle. Luckily, I was able to Parti-Gyle 4 gallons of a regular (1.055) IPA from the second runnings. Such a waste of ingredients going on here.


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Old 04-13-2012, 07:24 PM   #522
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Is it better to let it sit for a couple months before dryhopping?
I'd recommend you age the beer however long you plan to age it prior to bottling. Then 3 weeks or so before you bottle, dry hop then.


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Old 04-14-2012, 01:51 AM   #523
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Alright you guys sold me. Crashing this beeotch this evening after work. Should be back to 1.008-1.010 by then (16.8 - 17.1%). Or would it be better just to let it finish on its own to allow for yeast cleanup activities?
I've never brewed one of these monsters, and no planning to. I'll quit at 14% with a yeast that I know will still carbonate.

Why crash? Why not prime and bottle while you still have active yeast. If you put this on tap it, you will be tieing up a tap with a beer that you only want to drink occasionally .......
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:47 AM   #524
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Why crash? Why not prime and bottle while you still have active yeast.
Playing with fire with that one... I am going to make this to about 14%, but when it comes time to bottle I am going to make a small champagne yeast starter, and bottle when it's nice and active.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:33 AM   #525
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I've never brewed one of these monsters, and no planning to. I'll quit at 14% with a yeast that I know will still carbonate.

Why crash? Why not prime and bottle while you still have active yeast. If you put this on tap it, you will be tieing up a tap with a beer that you only want to drink occasionally .......
I don't want to crash because I want the yeast to cleanup. But it shows no sign of stopping 1.007 tonight. I know I've heard to add .010 because of the alcohol throwing off the reading, but how dry is too dry for this? I mashed VERY low (146-ish) and long and I'm afraid there are barely any nonfermentables from the malt left.

Decisions, decisions. I think I will just see how low it decides to go and add sugar to keep the reading around 1.008 - 1.010. The whole point was to take this to ~20% anyway, and with the 7+ ounces of dry hopping I'm planning, maybe it won't be the alcohol carpet bomb others have experienced. Heck, i dunno.
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Old 04-15-2012, 06:39 AM   #526
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I started on mine today. I'm not really following anyone's recipe, but I want to post here since I am following the idea that this thread gave me. I took 6 gallons of 1.105 wort to my 7.5 gallon carboy. Used 4 ounces of cascade leaf in the mash just to get the party started. Then went in
2 ounce warrior 90 min
2 ounce simcoe 30 min
2 ounce Columbus 15 min
4 ounce cascade 15 min
1 ounce simcoe 0 min
3 ounce centennial 0 min

I haven't run that through my software yet but I feel like its a lot of hops. I have about 4 lbs of American hops in the freezer, and I would like to see one of them go into this beer via dry hopping.

I pitched about a trillion American Ale II cells in, and I am going to wake up part of a huge slug of 099 tomorrow. I am going to add 2 lbs of dex to this beer, and hopefully finish at 1.010 giving me 14.25% ABV, which I am hoping a small starter of 099 pitched on bottling day will be able to carbonate. I plan to ferment, clarify, cold crash for 2 weeks, then dry hop for 10 days.

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Old 04-15-2012, 12:45 PM   #527
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but how dry is too dry for this? I mashed VERY low (146-ish) and long and I'm afraid there are barely any nonfermentables from the malt left.
I believe the consensus in this thread is get it low. Mine finished at .006 and its by no means dry. I have 14.87% and its smooth, huge mouthfeel and nice finish with little to no alcohol present. I brewed yesterday with my friends and cracked one open for them to try. At 8 weeks this beer is great. I already have a little carbonation, lacing on the glass with a little haze from the dry hops. I also mashed at 150*F while scottland and JSmith agree to mash lower to help out with the fermentation. Dont worry on drying the beer out. It wont trust me. I let the 099 ride out, the lowest so far thats been posted is .005 and that took a long time it seemed. After my 4# of sugar additions I still had a thick krausen for 2 weeks before it died down.

Dont know if this helps or not.

Cheers
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:54 PM   #528
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I believe the consensus in this thread is get it low. Mine finished at .006 and its by no means dry. I have 14.87% and its smooth, huge mouthfeel and nice finish with little to no alcohol present. I brewed yesterday with my friends and cracked one open for them to try. At 8 weeks this beer is great. I already have a little carbonation, lacing on the glass with a little haze from the dry hops. I also mashed at 150*F while scottland and JSmith agree to mash lower to help out with the fermentation. Dont worry on drying the beer out. It wont trust me. I let the 099 ride out, the lowest so far thats been posted is .005 and that took a long time it seemed. After my 4# of sugar additions I still had a thick krausen for 2 weeks before it died down.

Dont know if this helps or not.

Cheers
Super help, dude. Mad Thanks! Gonna let it go now, but if it finishes around 1.006, I'm gonna be in the upper 17%. Hope it's not too untastey. I plan 2 months of aging before dry-hopping and then force carbing.

I still haven't finished the full 4-lb. bag of corn sugar I bought for this (down to the bottom, though). The reason my alcohol is high is because I boiled from 6 to 5.25 gallons and lost another 1.25 gallons to hops and trub, leaving me with 4 in the primary..which I feel will become 3 after dry hopping.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:09 PM   #529
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I still haven't finished the full 4-lb. bag of corn sugar I bought for this (down to the bottom, though). The reason my alcohol is high is because I boiled from 6 to 5.25 gallons and lost another 1.25 gallons to hops and trub, leaving me with 4 in the primary..which I feel will become 3 after dry hopping.
Explain! I understand the increase in gravity due to the boil off to 5.25 gallons, but do not understand the higher alcohol due to the 1.25 gallons of hops and trub.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:15 PM   #530
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Explain! I understand the increase in gravity due to the boil off to 5.25 gallons, but do not understand the higher alcohol due to the 1.25 gallons of hops and trub.
I dont think it was spoken correctly. The volume lost to hops and trub contains alcohol so although it decreases overall volume it does not increase concentration of the remaining volume


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