Critique My First Recipe
My goal with this recipe is to build a clear and somewhat crisp pale ale with a bright gold color. I'm aiming for somewhere between 5.5 and 8.0 SRM. Preferably on the lower side. ABV about 5%, IBU between 30-40. Would like to dry hop as well.
Golden Pale Ale - built in iBrewMaster
Type: Partial Mash
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Batch Size: 5 gallons
Mash: 60 minutes at 155 in 3G of water
2lbs Breiss 2-Row Pale Ale
1lb Vienna Malt
1lb Rice (trying to lighten the body here)
6lbs Pale LME at boil
.5oz Centennial (pellet) 60min
1oz Cascade Leaf 30min
.5oz Centennial 1min (flameout)
1oz Cascade Leaf 1min (flameout)
2oz Amarillo (dry hop 7 days)
1 Packet Safale US-05
Additions: (both at 5min)
1oz Irish Moss
7 days at 72
Priming Sugar (corn) 5oz
7 days warm condition @ 72
7 days cold condition @ 40
Notes: I think the Vienna malt is throwing off the SRM rating by adding darkness. What would be a good substitute? 6-row pale?
I think it's very odd to use rice to lighten body, and then add maltodextrine as a thickener. I'd definitely cut out the maltodextine.
To lighten the color, add the pale LME at flame out instead of the start of the boil. That will help, as well as give a nicer flavor to the beer (less "cooked extract" taste).
The Vienna malt won't make the beer too dark, and neither will the US two-row. Don't sub in the 6-row- that's very "grainy" tasting.
I'd change up the hopping a little, moving the 30 minute hops to flavor additions. I like APAs hopped at 60 minutes/15 minutes/0 minutes.
.5oz Centennial (pellet) 60min (or to 20-25 IBUs with this addition)
1 oz Cascade Leaf 15
.5 oz centennial 5
1 oz cascade 1 minute
dryhop as desired with 1-2 oz of hops
The recipe looks pretty good to me.
I would add about half of the LME at the start of the boil and the rest in the last 10-15 minutes. This will help keep the color lighter.
I don't know about the use of Maltodextrine. I have never used it. If this is just to boost the alcohol level, I would increase or add other ingredients instead.
Primary fermentation will take a minimum of 7 days. You can rush things by taking gravity readings over 3 days to confirm that you have reached final gravity. I feel it is better to primary for about 3 weeks. This allows the beer flavors to blend and for it to get clear.
You would be lucky to get proper carbonation in 7 days warm and 7 days cool. You should count on 3 weeks at room temperature and a couple of days in the refrigerator.
I love Centennial and Cascade. I have never used Amarillo.
I should have noted... I meant on Primary it would be 7 days with active fermentation but it would sit for 14 days.
What ways could I get the SRM down to a lighter range? Perhaps under 7?
If you really want a golden beer, clarity is going to be imperative. I would recommend a month long primary before bottling.
Well, I put my order in tonight. Had to make some substitutions and changes based on availability. Here's the stats now:
Boil Size: 3 Gallons
Batch Size: 5 Gallons
2# 2-row Pale
1# Rice Hulls
Steep at 155 for 30 minutes.
60 Minute: 3# NB Gold LME, .5oz Columbus Leaf
15 Minute: 3# NB Gold LME, .5oz Columbus Leaf
5 Minute: 1oz Cascade pellet
Flameout: 1oz Cascade pellet, 1oz Irish Moss
Dry Hop: 2oz Summit Leaf, 7 days, from days 4-11
(This is likely to change. I want to see what my LHBS has available first, see if I can get something with lower AA, preferably Amarillo if not a more traditional dry hop)
Yeast: Safale US-05 1 pkt
Primary: 28 days @ 68-72 degrees
Bottling after than with priming sugar
I'm thinking about racking a gallon of the pale ale to a secondary with some mango in it. What should I take into consideration when I do this?
You definitely do NOT want a pound of rice hulls in there! Hopefully you didn't order it like that. You don't need any rice hulls, but a small handful won't hurt anything. A pound, though is a LOT.
I've never done a 28 day primary, and certainly wouldn't with an IPA, but if you're a fan of those long primaries you could do that.
Dryhop the last 5-7 days before packaging.
Had my first "UH OH SPAGHETTIOS" moment while brewing this batch. Ended up doing almost a full partial mash. Here's how brew day went:
Two gallons of cold water in the brew kettle.
Put all the grains in a muslin bag. Only did about 4oz of rice hulls. Maybe two solid handfuls.
Heated up the water to that magical 113-122 range. Did a "protein rest" for about fifteen minutes.
Heated the water up to the next range, anywhere between 150 and 168. Did my mashing then, with constant smushing and beating the bag. This step took about 35 minutes.
I then rinsed/sparged the grains with a gallon of cold water and let it drain into the kettle.
Heated to a boil and added roughly three pounds of NB Gold Extract. I wasn't exact on this one. Also added 1/2oz of Columbus hops (13.0%).
Boiled for 45 minutes, then at fifteen minutes I added 1.5tsp of Irish Moss, another 1/2oz of Columbus, and the remainder of the 6lb bottle of extract. Maybe around 3.5lb.
At five minutes, I added 1oz of Cascade pellets, then another ounce at 1min/flameout.
Cooled the wort down to 70 degrees while adding another 2.5 gallons of water. I poured the wort through a strainer lined with my remaining muslin bags and brought the total up to a smidgen over 5 gallons.
Took an OG reading at this point... And this was the "uh-oh" moment... I hit 1.072 as my OG. IBrewMaster says my efficiency was 196%. Gotta love that.
I pitched my yeast, Safale US-05, here. I rehydrated it in about 1.5 cups of pre-boiled water that I cooled to 100 degrees and added a teaspoon of extract to. I got a good hydration with a lot of bubbles. Poured that in and sealed her up.
I'm just amazed that my OG was so high. I think it's because I actually mashed my grains instead of just steeping them.
However, I hit one of my goals... In the hydrometer tube, the beer was extremely clear. Lots of sediment on the bottoms but it was very clear at the top.
Anyways, do I have anything to worry about or did I simply make a Extra-Strong Pale Ale/IPA by accident? Thanks!
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