Home Brew Forums

Home Brew Forums (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum.php)
-   Recipes/Ingredients (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/)
-   -   Critique My First Recipe (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/critique-my-first-recipe-367516/)

TheJasonT 11-13-2012 06:27 PM

Critique My First Recipe
My goal with this recipe is to build a clear and somewhat crisp pale ale with a bright gold color. I'm aiming for somewhere between 5.5 and 8.0 SRM. Preferably on the lower side. ABV about 5%, IBU between 30-40. Would like to dry hop as well.

Golden Pale Ale - built in iBrewMaster

Style: APA
Type: Partial Mash
OG: 1.055
FG: 1.014
ABV: 5.37%
SRM: 8.1
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Batch Size: 5 gallons

Mash: 60 minutes at 155 in 3G of water

2lbs Breiss 2-Row Pale Ale
1lb Vienna Malt
1lb Rice (trying to lighten the body here)

6lbs Pale LME at boil

.5oz Centennial (pellet) 60min
1oz Cascade Leaf 30min
.5oz Centennial 1min (flameout)
1oz Cascade Leaf 1min (flameout)
2oz Amarillo (dry hop 7 days)

1 Packet Safale US-05

Additions: (both at 5min)
1oz Irish Moss
1oz Malodextrin

Primary Fermentation:
7 days at 72

Priming Sugar (corn) 5oz
7 days warm condition @ 72
7 days cold condition @ 40

Notes: I think the Vienna malt is throwing off the SRM rating by adding darkness. What would be a good substitute? 6-row pale?


Yooper 11-13-2012 06:36 PM

I think it's very odd to use rice to lighten body, and then add maltodextrine as a thickener. I'd definitely cut out the maltodextine.

To lighten the color, add the pale LME at flame out instead of the start of the boil. That will help, as well as give a nicer flavor to the beer (less "cooked extract" taste).

The Vienna malt won't make the beer too dark, and neither will the US two-row. Don't sub in the 6-row- that's very "grainy" tasting.

I'd change up the hopping a little, moving the 30 minute hops to flavor additions. I like APAs hopped at 60 minutes/15 minutes/0 minutes.

Like this:
.5oz Centennial (pellet) 60min (or to 20-25 IBUs with this addition)
1 oz Cascade Leaf 15
.5 oz centennial 5
1 oz cascade 1 minute
dryhop as desired with 1-2 oz of hops

kh54s10 11-13-2012 06:42 PM

The recipe looks pretty good to me.
I would add about half of the LME at the start of the boil and the rest in the last 10-15 minutes. This will help keep the color lighter.

I don't know about the use of Maltodextrine. I have never used it. If this is just to boost the alcohol level, I would increase or add other ingredients instead.

Primary fermentation will take a minimum of 7 days. You can rush things by taking gravity readings over 3 days to confirm that you have reached final gravity. I feel it is better to primary for about 3 weeks. This allows the beer flavors to blend and for it to get clear.

You would be lucky to get proper carbonation in 7 days warm and 7 days cool. You should count on 3 weeks at room temperature and a couple of days in the refrigerator.

I love Centennial and Cascade. I have never used Amarillo.

TheJasonT 11-13-2012 07:09 PM

I should have noted... I meant on Primary it would be 7 days with active fermentation but it would sit for 14 days.

TheJasonT 11-14-2012 01:04 PM

What ways could I get the SRM down to a lighter range? Perhaps under 7?

Xpertskir 11-14-2012 02:49 PM


Originally Posted by TheJasonT (Post 4588284)
What ways could I get the SRM down to a lighter range? Perhaps under 7?

I agree with what others have said and also,

If you really want a golden beer, clarity is going to be imperative. I would recommend a month long primary before bottling.

TheJasonT 11-15-2012 01:00 AM

Well, I put my order in tonight. Had to make some substitutions and changes based on availability. Here's the stats now:

OG: 1.055
FG: 1.014
ABV: 5.37%
IBU: 39.61
Boil Size: 3 Gallons
Batch Size: 5 Gallons

Steeping Grains:
2# 2-row Pale
1# Vienna
1# Rice Hulls

Steep at 155 for 30 minutes.

Boil Additions:
60 Minute: 3# NB Gold LME, .5oz Columbus Leaf
15 Minute: 3# NB Gold LME, .5oz Columbus Leaf
5 Minute: 1oz Cascade pellet
Flameout: 1oz Cascade pellet, 1oz Irish Moss

Dry Hop: 2oz Summit Leaf, 7 days, from days 4-11
(This is likely to change. I want to see what my LHBS has available first, see if I can get something with lower AA, preferably Amarillo if not a more traditional dry hop)

Yeast: Safale US-05 1 pkt

Primary: 28 days @ 68-72 degrees
Bottling after than with priming sugar




TheJasonT 11-18-2012 04:36 PM

I'm thinking about racking a gallon of the pale ale to a secondary with some mango in it. What should I take into consideration when I do this?

Yooper 11-18-2012 05:32 PM

You definitely do NOT want a pound of rice hulls in there! Hopefully you didn't order it like that. You don't need any rice hulls, but a small handful won't hurt anything. A pound, though is a LOT.

I've never done a 28 day primary, and certainly wouldn't with an IPA, but if you're a fan of those long primaries you could do that.

Dryhop the last 5-7 days before packaging.

TheJasonT 11-25-2012 10:07 PM

Had my first "UH OH SPAGHETTIOS" moment while brewing this batch. Ended up doing almost a full partial mash. Here's how brew day went:

*sanitize everything"

Two gallons of cold water in the brew kettle.

Put all the grains in a muslin bag. Only did about 4oz of rice hulls. Maybe two solid handfuls.

Heated up the water to that magical 113-122 range. Did a "protein rest" for about fifteen minutes.

Heated the water up to the next range, anywhere between 150 and 168. Did my mashing then, with constant smushing and beating the bag. This step took about 35 minutes.

I then rinsed/sparged the grains with a gallon of cold water and let it drain into the kettle.

Heated to a boil and added roughly three pounds of NB Gold Extract. I wasn't exact on this one. Also added 1/2oz of Columbus hops (13.0%).

Boiled for 45 minutes, then at fifteen minutes I added 1.5tsp of Irish Moss, another 1/2oz of Columbus, and the remainder of the 6lb bottle of extract. Maybe around 3.5lb.

At five minutes, I added 1oz of Cascade pellets, then another ounce at 1min/flameout.

Cooled the wort down to 70 degrees while adding another 2.5 gallons of water. I poured the wort through a strainer lined with my remaining muslin bags and brought the total up to a smidgen over 5 gallons.

Took an OG reading at this point... And this was the "uh-oh" moment... I hit 1.072 as my OG. IBrewMaster says my efficiency was 196%. Gotta love that.

I pitched my yeast, Safale US-05, here. I rehydrated it in about 1.5 cups of pre-boiled water that I cooled to 100 degrees and added a teaspoon of extract to. I got a good hydration with a lot of bubbles. Poured that in and sealed her up.

I'm just amazed that my OG was so high. I think it's because I actually mashed my grains instead of just steeping them.

However, I hit one of my goals... In the hydrometer tube, the beer was extremely clear. Lots of sediment on the bottoms but it was very clear at the top.

Anyways, do I have anything to worry about or did I simply make a Extra-Strong Pale Ale/IPA by accident? Thanks!

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:04 PM.

Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.