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Old 09-19-2009, 08:26 PM   #21
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To my taste American pale ales have a pronounced hop flavor, not just bitterness and aroma. In an English bitter, the first hop addition gives you bitterness and the late hop addition gives you some hop aroma -- but there is no hop flavor to compete with the maltiness of the beer. That hop flavor, at least in general terms, comes from the 20-30 minute addition common in American hop schedules. At least that's my rationale.
I like your way of thinking on the bitterness. I never thought about it, but you very seldom taste the actual hops in a British beer.


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Old 09-19-2009, 08:41 PM   #22
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I'm drinking this as I type:

Best Bitter
8-C Extra Special/Strong Bitter (English Pale Ale)
Date: 8/18/09

Original Gravity: 1.050 (1.048 - 1.060)
Terminal Gravity: 1.012 (1.010 - 1.016)
Color: 11.42 (6.0 - 18.0)
Alcohol: 4.87% (4.6% - 6.2%)
Bitterness: 33.2 (30.0 - 50.0)

Ingredients:
4.0 lb Maris Otter
4.75 lb Pale Ale Malt
0.5 lb Corn Flaked (Maize)
0.5 lb Crystal 60
1.0 oz Challenger (7.0%) - added during boil, boiled 60.0 min
0.5 oz East Kent Goldings Leaf (5.0%) - added during boil, boiled 30.0 min
0.5 oz East Kent Goldings Leaf (5.0%) - added during boil, boiled 5.0 min
1.0 ea Fermentis S-04 Safale S-04

I've also brewed a batch w/ WLP026. Haven't tried it yet.


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Old 09-19-2009, 08:53 PM   #23
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You should tried the WLP0023 (Burton ale). I think it's become my house yeast for English styles.
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Old 09-19-2009, 09:15 PM   #24
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You should tried the WLP0023 (Burton ale). I think it's become my house yeast for English styles.
If this website of JZ's is correct, it appears that WLP0023 is the same strain at Wyeast 1275. This is great since I can only get wyeast at my LHBS.

Thanks for the tip.

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:25 PM   #25
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If this website of JZ's is correct, it appears that WLP0023 is the same strain at Wyeast 1275. This is great since I can only get wyeast at my LHBS.

Thanks for the tip.

http://www.mrmalty.com/yeast.htm
While that yeast list has them listed as the same strain, I get different results from them. The thames valley has had an almost dirty kind of flavor in the couple beers I used it in while the burton ale has been more flavorful and without the muddy kind of flavor. It could be that something infected that thames valley culture I had since all the beers I made with it came from a washed sample from the same smack pack.

As for the original question in this thread, I also have been pursuing the perfect bitter and have a few suggestions that closely follow several other good posts in this thread.

First, get a little british crystal 55 in there. Don't use american crystal, it tastes completely different. You can kind of think about it like this, the british crystals are a bit more complex toffee while the american crystals are more simple sweet caramel. Theres a bit of burnt sugar/roastiness in the british crystals. You don't have to use much, just 3-7% of the grain bill to start. And let that be your only specialty grain. Don't worry with biscuit or victory malt yet. You should get enough toasty/bready flavors from your base grain. The gambrinus esb malt should be fine if you can't source some maris otter. I think I remember hearing it is traditionally floor-malted and kilned to the slightly darker colors like british base malts.

Second, work on that water profile. There are several sources to calculate mineral additions, beersmith being one, if you have it. I find that if I try to hit the Burton profile exactly, the resulting beer is too minerally. If I add minerals to about half the levels of burton, the beer is much better.

If you do that and use good british style hops (I really like fuggles mixed with my EKG, and bramling cross, challenger, and styrian goldings are also very good in a bitter) and a good british yeast, you'll be making great bitters that while drinking will make you swear you're back at the pub, well almost.
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Old 09-19-2009, 10:39 PM   #26
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Great advice, KingBrianI.

Thanks again to everyone. I'm feeling really confident that I have a direction to follow, as well as a better handle on the key elements for the style(s).

Further advice and thoughts are certainly welcome and appreciated.

Cheers, HBTers!!!
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:30 AM   #27
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I just tried an appropriately aged bottle of my ESB today, and MMMMMMMM yum. I need to post that recipe up here soon. MO + biscuit = tasty brew.
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Old 09-20-2009, 03:47 PM   #28
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The biscuit/medium crystal/Special Roast addition seems to be the necessary malt direction. Anyone use something like Carapils for body? I noticed that there was a 'thinness' to the bitters that I had in the UK; the handpumping seemed to give the beers some more fullness and creaminess.

Just realised that the last sentence above could be badly taken out of context.

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Old 09-20-2009, 04:50 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Nugent View Post
The biscuit/medium crystal/Special Roast addition seems to be the necessary malt direction. Anyone use something like Carapils for body? I noticed that there was a 'thinness' to the bitters that I had in the UK; the handpumping seemed to give the beers some more fullness and creaminess.

Just realised that the last sentence above could be badly taken out of context.
You could use some dextrin malt if you like. British Carastan malt has some dextrin characteristics but is much darker than the usual CaraPils/CaraFoam malts so you could replace some of the crystal with it. Another possibilty would be to bring the mash temp up a few degrees.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:56 PM   #30
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I am experimenting with special B in bitter at the moment. I know it is not a British grain, but an early tasting at 3% of the drist is looking promising for a bitter with a particular caramel flavour. My next batch will probably be at 2%, special B is powerful stuff!

Edit: I just noticed that Monkeydan lives in my hometown.......Made me feel warm and fuzzy for a moment.


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Last edited by Laughing_Gnome_Invisible; 09-20-2009 at 07:26 PM.
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