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Old 02-21-2008, 02:51 PM   #21
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This is a bit like doing a flameout add, but delaying the addition until after the fermentation would boost the retention of oils. Before CO2 extraction became common, heat extraction was the standard method for making hop bittering and aroma concentrates.

I think 14 ounces is a personal maximum for me, but at the last Hop Madness, someone claimed to have used 24 ounces in five gallons.

Note: Regardless of what the software says, it is very difficult to go over 100 IBU. The solution saturates and none of the common tools take this into consideration.

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Old 02-21-2008, 03:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daryk77
Yeah, hopefully that will keep most of the aroma floating away. I say try doing a batch where you steep the hops for less time and see what effect that has on the flavor and aroma. Should have even more than the longer steeping time, and would be easy to do.

Good advice. I will give it a go
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Old 02-21-2008, 03:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierMuncher
2) Could a hop-concentrate tea be brewed, saved and then several drops added to individual beers prior to pouring according to taste?
I actually purchased some concentrated liquid hops form eBay...

Couldn't say for sure what hop(s) were used, but it works when you have a sweeter brew you want to bitter up a bit.
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Old 02-21-2008, 03:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david_42
This is a bit like doing a flameout add, but delaying the addition until after the fermentation would boost the retention of oils. Before CO2 extraction became common, heat extraction was the standard method for making hop bittering and aroma concentrates.
Note: Regardless of what the software says, it is very difficult to go over 100 IBU. The solution saturates and none of the common tools take this into consideration.
Your statements regarding hop oil retention are very similar to advice that got from Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewing during one of my visits to the brewery. Vinnie advised me to focus my hop additions after fermentation. He said for me to chill the beer to drop the yeast, add hops and let them sit for one to two weeks.
As I can remember, he felt that the yeast absorbed some of the hop oils, thus flavor and it was essential to get the yeast out of the way to allow the hop flavor remain in the beer.
What I have tried with these experiments to combine the technique of getting the yeast out beer and extracting the hop flavor with hot water similar to a hopback that contains the aroma. I liken the making of a hop tea, to making my own hop oil extract that I add to the beer.
So far, I an very happy with the results. It has proven to be a very efficient way to add hop flavor and aroma to the beer.
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Old 02-21-2008, 04:38 PM   #25
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the major advantage i see hear is the minimal lost of beer apposed to dry hopping in secondary. Whole hops soak up a bunch of delicious beer!

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Old 02-21-2008, 05:11 PM   #26
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I am building a hop inducer out of a canister filter so I can get the "green" right before my glass. I mean you have to run beer through and let it sit before you start using it, but I have heard this gets the freshest flavor and aroma out there.

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Old 02-21-2008, 05:35 PM   #27
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I'm getting thoughts like Biermuncher...

I have an expresso machine,... What would happen if I packed the ground chamber w/ pellet hops and made a dupio. (Double Cup) Then pitched that in the secondary.

Being a little more sanitary, another thought is canning just hops and water. Pressure cook 30 minutes. When its cool pitch it into the 2ndary.

puney_the_youkel - Thanks for the thought provoking idea!!

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Old 02-21-2008, 05:37 PM   #28
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So using this technique seems like you could cut your time in half for brewing , say, a pale ale that you wanted to dry hop.

Could you not just dry hop a liter or so of water for the same duration that your beer is in the primary, and then (i keg) poor your dry hopped water in the keg and rack on top of it? Thus you don't waste much beer that would have gotten stuck in your hops, cut down on the time if you only were to secondary purely to dry hop, and there would be little or no hop sediment for those who usually dry hop in the keg.

Would the hopped water mix well with the fermented beer?

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Old 02-21-2008, 05:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikestuff
Have you seriously thrown a pound of hops into 5gal of beer?
Is there something wrong with this?
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Old 02-21-2008, 06:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chello
So using this technique seems like you could cut your time in half for brewing , say, a pale ale that you wanted to dry hop.

Could you not just dry hop a liter or so of water for the same duration that your beer is in the primary, and then (i keg) poor your dry hopped water in the keg and rack on top of it? Thus you don't waste much beer that would have gotten stuck in your hops, cut down on the time if you only were to secondary purely to dry hop, and there would be little or no hop sediment for those who usually dry hop in the keg.

Would the hopped water mix well with the fermented beer?

I have not soaked hops and added the "tea" to beer. I am impatient and like the immediate nature of using hot water.
To the question of if it will mix with fermented beer. All of my experiments have been with fully fermented beer which has been chilled to drop the yeast.
Additonally, I have used the French Press Hop Tea to add to already carbonated beer. I had a couple of kegs that I felt, were under-hopped. The process was very simple. I just made a tea using one ounce of hops, added the tea after an hour of steeping to the keg with C02 flowing to reduce the chance of oxidation.
I gave it a gentle shake, and let it sit for about a week. I compared it to the un-hopped version and in my opinion, it really perked up the beer.
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