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Old 12-19-2009, 04:16 PM   #11
khiddy
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Actually, for an English barleywine (style 19B), oxidation is mentioned in the guidelines:

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Flavor: Strong, intense, complex, multi-layered malt flavors ranging from bready and biscuity through nutty, deep toast, dark caramel, toffee, and/or molasses. Moderate to high malty sweetness on the palate, although the finish may be moderately sweet to moderately dry (depending on aging). Some oxidative or vinous flavors may be present, and often complex alcohol flavors should be evident. Alcohol flavors shouldn’t be harsh, hot or solventy. Moderate to fairly high fruitiness, often with a dried-fruit character. Hop bitterness may range from just enough for balance to a firm presence; balance therefore ranges from malty to somewhat bitter. Low to moderately high hop flavor (usually UK varieties). Low to no diacetyl.


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Old 12-19-2009, 04:29 PM   #12
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Well I stand corrected about the notes a barleywine should have. However, I don't advise against accelerated oxidation by bringing the beer into contact with air during fermentation. The oxidation notes should be slight as you would get from a prolonged aging. As I said earlier, beers like these need to be left alone. Bottle it, hide it and forget about it.



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Old 12-19-2009, 05:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrog View Post
How about a 4th? Oak right away then bulk age. Then two weeks before bottleing add the hops. That way the oak had time to age and the hops are nice and fresh.
I am with this idea as well. I would go with primary, secondary with the oak until it tastes right and then bulk age in secondary, then just before you are ready to bottle dry hop for a week or two. The oak will be way overpowering at first and I wouldn't really advise on waiting on the oaking. If you oak right off the bat then it will have time to smooth out.

Make the oak able to come out by drilling holes in cubes/sticks and attaching fishing line to it. Make the oak able to just be pulled out at any time in order to now have to rack off the chips/cubes/sticks.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:24 PM   #14
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Make the oak able to come out by drilling holes in cubes/sticks and attaching fishing line to it. Make the oak able to just be pulled out at any time in order to now have to rack off the chips/cubes/sticks.
What a great idea! Plus, by drilling holes, you've increased the surface area, leading to further flavor development in the beer... genius!
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:29 PM   #15
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I got tired of having to strain and oxidate my beer, so I did that. Just tie the first one to the end and then string them right on top and tie the last one, then attach it to something outside the fermenter (carboy neck, handle, strap, bookshelf) and you can taste it and when there is enough just fish it out...get it, fish it out

PS...if you don't have fishing line, don't use mint or cinnamon dental floss. It isn't the same idea, trust me

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Old 12-20-2009, 01:17 PM   #16
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Very informative thread!

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Old 12-20-2009, 01:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrog View Post
How about a 4th? Oak right away then bulk age. Then two weeks before bottleing add the hops. That way the oak had time to age and the hops are nice and fresh.
"Option 4" seems like this might impart too much oakiness... I'm just looking for a hint of oak character, that's why I was only thinking about a month with the oak.

I've got some time to decide the best option since I'm just brewing this today. I'm leaning towards option 3 - with a few taste-tests during the oak aging period to see how the flavor is progressing. If the oak flavor isn't coming through, I'll just wait a while longer before dry hopping. I'll do the dry hop with 10-14 days left before bottling.

One thing we do know: no matter what, I will end up with beer when it's all said and done!
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:07 PM   #18
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He means to oak right off the bat for two weeks to a month and then remove the oak. Then bulk age it to allow the oak to mellow and not be harsh. Otherwise you might as well oak it and dry hop it and bottle it to age.

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Old 12-21-2009, 03:01 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Up North View Post
He means to oak right off the bat for two weeks to a month and then remove the oak. Then bulk age it to allow the oak to mellow and not be harsh. Otherwise you might as well oak it and dry hop it and bottle it to age.
Yup, this is what I ment. Guess I should have been more clear.
Also I love your Idea on drilling holes in the oak and stringing them together


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