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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Recipes/Ingredients > Another try at a Dogfish Head 120 style beer
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:27 PM   #11
ianmatth
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This will help you calculate how much extract to use to hit 1.080-1.100 OG: http://www.brewersfriend.com/extract-ogfg/

This will help you figure out how much hops to use(although doubling the hops from a DIPA you like is a good method as well): http://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/

This will help you figure out how much yeast to pitch(you will definitely want to make a starter unless you are doing a 1 gallon batch): http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-p...er-calculator/

Here are some links to where I got most of my information:
http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/03...ipa-clone.html
http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/03...born-baby.html

I think light LME is a perfect substitute for 2-row and really don't think you'll loose that many points off your final gravity as long as you pitch enough yeast and don't push the calculated OG up too high. If you want the DFH malt profile, you could partial mash 1 lbs Thomas Fawcett Amber Malt and 3 lbs 2-row. It's very easy to mash 4 pounds of grain in a little $10 cooler, just add 1.5 gallons of 160* water then add your grain in and stir it around, that will most likely knock your temperature down to 150*. Close the cooler, wrap it in a towel or blanket, and let it sit for an hour. That would be considered mashing at 150* for 60 min. You can always worry about step mashing and sparging at some point in the future. Even with only 50% efficiency, adding 9 lbs of light LME should give you a starting OG of 1.080 for a 5 gallon batch. You could even split the batch if you want and do half of it as a DFH 90 clone as you would have the ideal wort for a partial mash DFH 90 clone at that point.

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Old 04-01-2014, 12:29 PM   #12
CraigKing
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Cool, thanks for the ideas.

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Old 04-02-2014, 06:45 AM   #13
ianmatth
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One last thing, some people who are more experienced with partial mashes suggest using DME to avoid caramelization, and based on their advice I used DME for the few PMs I did, however I used LME for every extract brew I did and never had an issue so I don't understand how adding the wort from mashing grain would all the sudden cause caramelization with LME.

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Old 04-04-2014, 08:24 AM   #14
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Added first dry hop:

1 oz Simcoe
1/2 oz each Centennial, Citra, El Dorado, Galaxy, and CTZ
1/4 oz Apollo

That's 3.75 oz for the first dry hop of a 2.5 gallon batch, which is ~36% more than the first dry hop for the Heady Topper clone. I plan to add another 1.75 oz for the final dry hop, so ultimately the total dry hops will be exactly the same as the total of the HT clone's 3 additions.

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Old 04-10-2014, 05:34 AM   #15
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Added final dry hop:

1/2 oz Simcoe
3/8 oz Citra
1/4 oz each Centennial and CTZ
1/8 oz each El Dorado, Galaxy, and Apollo

I think the Conan yeast is no longer active, so I will let the temperature go up to 70* to finish things off.

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Old 04-14-2014, 10:02 AM   #16
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I bottled the beer. Gravity was down to 1.004 so that would put ABV ~18%. I ended up filling my 6 liter Tap-A-Draft bottle and another 4 12-oz bottles with clear beer. I probably had about 24 oz of trub that I dumped.

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Old 05-01-2014, 09:01 AM   #17
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My Tap-A-Draft bottle had no carbonation after a week so I hit it up with a CO2 cartridge and let it sit for another week. It now has great carbonation, but tasted a little sweet. Most of the sweet taste is from attenuated sugar, but it's possible some is from unattenuated bottling sugar. I'm going to give my bottles a few more weeks to see how they end up, but if they don't have good carbonation I will probably just stick to force carbonating for any 15+% ABV beers from now on. I would say the Tap-A-Draft system can get it done. Properly carbonated 18% ABV beer.

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