I don't see it being an issue. The analog Johnson controller that I use has a temp rise window of 5 degrees F., meaning that it doesn't kick on every time it falls a degree---it only comes on after it falls 5 degrees.
Furthermore, once my freezer is at temp, it takes a long time to warm up. I'll be sitting down in my brewshop and not hear it come on for hours.
Think about it for a second, though: without the temp controller, the freezer still cuts on and off trying to keep the temp at whatever the freezing temp is. So what if it's 30 degrees higher? It still has to maintain a temp in the same manner. Actually, given that most spaces are warmer, it seems like it would be EASIER to keep it at 38f than it would be to keep it at freezing or lower, and thus, it would cut on/off less often, not more.
.planned:
•Scottish 80/- •Sweet Stout •Roggenbier .primary | bright:
98: Moss Hollow Soured '09 72: Oude Kriek 99: B-Weisse 102: Brett'd BDSA 104: Feat of Strength Helles Bock 105: Merkin Brown .on tap | kegged:
XX: Moss Hollow Springs Sparkling Water 95: Gott Mit Uns German Pils 91b: Brown Willie's Oaked Abbey Ale 103: Merkin Stout
98: Yorkshire Special 100: Maple Porter 89: Cidre Saison 101: Steffiweizen '09 (#3)
Ditto. Mine cuts on about once every 2 hours and I am using a Johnson also. If you use Ranco then you can set your variance. Aslong as you don't do something like set it to 2 degrees you should be golden.
Since you are setting the temperature of your kegger higher than what would be normal (be it a chest freezer or fridge), the controller will cycle less often than the internal thermostat would have.
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You can further prevent frequent cycling by putting your controller probe in a small volume of water. Even something like a white labs vile would be good. This keep the probe from warming up 5+ degrees when you open the lid for some reason. It's a short time frame buffer.
I have heard that most chest freezer problems (with or without a controller) are due to using extension cords with the incorrect guage. (Cord is too thin and too long.)
My Ranco has a pretty fat cord. If you wire your own, I'd look into that and I'd avoid using a cheap extension cord.
I have heard that most chest freezer problems (with or without a controller) are due to using extension cords with the incorrect guage. (Cord is too thin and too long.)...
I'd read that, too. I used a standard 12/3 pigtail found at any hardware store. Mine's a 3-foot cord. I'd avoid anything longer.
Will a Temperature Controller ruin a chest freezer?
I don't even remember where I read this in the first place.
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