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Old 08-07-2008, 07:00 PM   #1
brewjunky
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Default Will this schematic work for my electric system

Can someone tell me if this would work for wiring my 4500 watt 240 volt water tank heater to my PID controller with SSR.

I kind of stole the idea from someone else but tweaked it abit.

My SSR is 40 amps. My PID works at 240v.

I put a switch in there so I wouldn't have to use 2 relays.

The black and white wires are the 2 hots.

i'm using a auber instruments PID

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Old 08-07-2008, 09:25 PM   #2
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Was there supposed to be a link or photo? If so, I'm not seeing it - could be a problem on my end.

Rick

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Old 08-08-2008, 02:27 AM   #3
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its up now I believe

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Old 08-08-2008, 03:08 AM   #4
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Still no schematic.

Paul

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Old 08-08-2008, 03:17 AM   #5
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Maybe this will show up; if not:
http://www.bodock.org/PostImages/2008/heating.jpg

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Old 08-08-2008, 03:24 AM   #6
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I can see the image now, but it is hard to read. I don't know what PID you are using, but I will assume the connections are correct. What is the red block on the bottom left?

Paul

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Old 08-08-2008, 03:32 AM   #7
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Leave out the switch, take the white wire directly to the heating element, take the blue wire directly to the relay. It's the same as you have assuming you leave the switch on; if you plan to switch the switch anytime the PID brings in the relay, you don't need to. With one line broken (by the relay via the PID controller) it won't heat. Make sure you use the GFCI breaker; make sure you are comfortable working with electricity.

Rick

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Old 08-08-2008, 06:55 AM   #8
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The PID is from Auber instruments it is the one that is 45 dollars i'm not sure the model off hand.

The way I had it I was going to buy a double pole switch.

As far as electricity is concerned I know enough not to kill myself. I just wired my garage.

I haven't worked with 220V much but it seems the same as 110 just 2 hots instead of a neutral..

I have a 30 amp breaker that I will be running the element off of.

I have a switch that I will run my march pump off regular 110 that I will wire into my control box.

My reasoning for the switch was to have a way to kill power to the element if the SSR fails.

I was just reading up on this and an electrician had said that if you are not running 2 SSR that putting a switch in there is a safe practice.

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Old 08-08-2008, 01:56 PM   #9
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I will work as Rick_R describes. Put the switch between the line and the power block if it will make you more comfortable having a local complete disconnect feature.

Paul

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Old 08-08-2008, 07:58 PM   #10
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Then I loose power to the PID controller it's self. I just really wanted to kill power to the element not shut the whole unit off.

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