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Old 11-12-2007, 03:13 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catfish

1. My problems with the old mill came from the axles being screwed on (I misthreaded it when I was changing the handle adn was never able to right it).


2. I think the monster mills axles are solid extensions of the actual rollers.


3. For general mill specs, minimum 4" x 1.5" rollers, 6" x 2" would be even better.


4. Also I hate the adjustment method on my old mill; dials on the axles of the powered roller, with a tiny tightening screw under the hopper. To adjust the mill you need to remove the hopper and top cover of the mill, this is a problem with a full hopper. Ideally you would have set your mill to the proper gap before filling your hopper, but the act of grinding turn the adjuster knob.


5. You should look at these mills to get an idea:
http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/productsnew.html
http://www.mashmaster.com/p/389022/m...ory-price.html
http://crankandstein.org/
and of course
http://www.barleycrusher.com/


6. Don't forget to check out the DIY section as some of the people here have already built their own mills and can give you different info than I can.


7. I'd be interested in seeing your mill s when they're done.


1. Have you tried drilling the threads out and re-tapping to the next size up? It should solve your problem. If you'd like, give me the current thread size and I'll give you the corresponding info for the next size tap up, including the correct drill to use.

2. That is the correct way to make a solid machine. Anything less is just asking for trouble.

3. I was thinking of a minimum of 2.0 diameter rollers at 6.0 inches in length, not including the drive spindle (0.375 & approx. 1.5 long). I was also thinking of machining an adapter should someone want to use a 0.500 dia. drive.

4. Adjusting the drive roller doesn't make sense, being that the roller would be heavier and more 'temperamental' than the dummy roller to control. I was looking into several different ways to adjust the dummy roller externally and with precision. Less fuss and pissed off brewers that way.

5. Thanks. That helps out. I pretty much know how it has to work but really wanted input from the guys who use those things all the time. Not much of a beer drinker myself. I prefer Port.

6. I'll do that. Again, thank you.

7. It'll be a work of art, I'll assure you. The prototype will be out of 7075-T651 aluminum... not that trashy 6061-T6 stuff. I'm hoping, if the cost isn't prohibitive, to construct the mill out of 304 SST. as much as possible, not withstanding bearings, etc.



Please, if you guys have any other requests for a 'perfect' malt mill, feel free to jump right in and put your two cents in.

A little background on me.

I own a cnc machine shop in San Diego. Most of my experience has been in machining exotic alloys for the bio-tech/medical, deep sea exploration, aerospace and space technology fields. My parts have flown in air and space, been to the depths of the seas, and helped repair skeletal defects in humans. No part is too complex... just sometimes cost prohibitive.
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Old 11-12-2007, 08:51 PM   #122
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Mechanical engineer in the aerospace biz here. No need to go to the cost of 7075. The 6061 will be more than adequate given the stress levels in the mill. 304 for the rollers? Now you're talkin'! After using the mill at my LHBS, I really don't see the point in the 6 inch rollers. Who cares if it takes a minute or a minute and a half to grind the grains for a batch. Besides that extra stainless isn't going to come cheap.

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Old 11-12-2007, 08:53 PM   #123
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I've got to say....


That freakin' BarleyCrusher is a super-freak.... my efficiency still sucks, so there's something else going on, but DAMN that was a nice crush!

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Old 11-12-2007, 09:06 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceskier
Mechanical engineer in the aerospace biz here. No need to go to the cost of 7075. The 6061 will be more than adequate given the stress levels in the mill. 304 for the rollers? Now you're talkin'! After using the mill at my LHBS, I really don't see the point in the 6 inch rollers. Who cares if it takes a minute or a minute and a half to grind the grains for a batch. Besides that extra stainless isn't going to come cheap.

You being an engineer, what do you think of using two long spline gears as rollers to crush the grain? I was interested in this but somehow think it'd compact the grain rather than break it open. It may even jam the gears too. Ideas?

I have a concept of a mill that has two fixed round rollers out of SST, spaced 0.070 apart with a bar that raises between the lower part of the rollers to adjust the grain size down to 0.040. That's easier to adjust than rollers. In the lower position, you'd get 0.070 grains and in the upper position you'd get 0.040 grains. The bar would be adjusted from the outside. No need to clear the hopper or dismantle the mill.
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Old 11-12-2007, 09:30 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird
I've got to say....


That freakin' BarleyCrusher is a super-freak.... my efficiency still sucks, so there's something else going on, but DAMN that was a nice crush!
Now why does your eff suck? We might need to review your methods and equipment.
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Old 11-12-2007, 09:43 PM   #126
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I have to confirm what it was. I might have hit ~70%, which would be a 10% or 15% improvement. I forgot my PH buffer (again ), so I might have had some PH issues.

Next brew is going to be a simple, clean, 1050 - 1055ish pale/amber ale. If I can't get that up to 75%, I'm going to be looking for answers....

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Old 11-12-2007, 09:56 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oedipus Rex
You being an engineer, what do you think of using two long spline gears as rollers to crush the grain? I was interested in this but somehow think it'd compact the grain rather than break it open. It may even jam the gears too. Ideas?

I have a concept of a mill that has two fixed round rollers out of SST, spaced 0.070 apart with a bar that raises between the lower part of the rollers to adjust the grain size down to 0.040. That's easier to adjust than rollers. In the lower position, you'd get 0.070 grains and in the upper position you'd get 0.040 grains. The bar would be adjusted from the outside. No need to clear the hopper or dismantle the mill.

I'm not sure this would be fine enough. I have my mill set at .028 and get a very fine crush. I may back it off to .032 or so though. One thing I wish my mill did have was to have both rollers geared. I find that the dummy roller will sometimes get stuck and I'll have to gently turn it to get it going again. Part of that is probably because I have it set too fine. But I like a really fine crush and haven't had a stuck sparge in ages.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:48 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdoiv
I'm not sure this would be fine enough. I have my mill set at .028 and get a very fine crush. I may back it off to .032 or so though. One thing I wish my mill did have was to have both rollers geared. I find that the dummy roller will sometimes get stuck and I'll have to gently turn it to get it going again. Part of that is probably because I have it set too fine. But I like a really fine crush and haven't had a stuck sparge in ages.

Great to hear from you. As I've said before, I'm not a home brewer. From what I've read online, it seems that people usually go for two different grinds... 0.04 and 0.07 . It was my intention to make a mill that even someone loaded on beer could run efficiently without screwing up the grind. But its easy enough to adjust the rough print to accommodate a finer grind before machining the prototype. So, now I have three different grind configurations to consider (0.025, 0.040, and 0.070). Not bad.


Anyone else have any suggestions?
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Old 11-13-2007, 04:48 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bird
I have to confirm what it was. I might have hit ~70%, which would be a 10% or 15% improvement. I forgot my PH buffer (again ), so I might have had some PH issues.

Next brew is going to be a simple, clean, 1050 - 1055ish pale/amber ale. If I can't get that up to 75%, I'm going to be looking for answers....
I'm right between 70-72% with the crusher and PH stabilizer.

I'm beginning to think my 10-gallon Rubbermaid lends itself to the problem. I’m thinking that a bigger surface area like you’d get in a 60 Qt rectangular would make a difference.

Bird…what kind of mash tun do you use?
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Old 11-13-2007, 04:51 PM   #130
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9 gallon Coleman Xtreme (rectangular). Not a huge amount of surface area; why do you think that would make a difference? The last mash ended up pretty thin after the infusions I had to do to make my temp.

My thermometer (brand farkin' new) got f*ckered up at some point along the way, too... I'm sticking with my digital pen thermo, seems to work the best for me.

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That'll do, Pigley. That'll do.
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