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Old 02-11-2013, 12:26 AM   #51
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I mean, I would be inclined to believe that having some space will help cool faster. I have about an inch or so between coils and like 2 to 3 inches (without getting off the sofa to measure) all the way around. Wort... Or even boiled water for that matter, holds heat really well. So we want as much flow over the cold parts as we can get. If you're pushing up against the sides, you're restricting how much warm wort will be able to touch the cool tube. Also, I kinda make a slow butter churn motion to keep the water circulating around the coils. Physics class was a long time ago... So I could just be making this stuff up

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Old 02-11-2013, 12:27 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by EZCyclone View Post

To the OP, let me make VERY CLEAR, I'm not attacking you, not even close I LOVE that you did this and want to do it very badly! In fact I have the stuff and plan to very soon. I was just hoping others had a specif answer about using solder in a 212 deg f unbalanced solution we intend to drink. Not just potable water.
My beer tastes like, uhhh, beer.

If you have doubts use a different method of chilling your beer.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:35 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post
My beer tastes like, uhhh, beer.

If you have doubts use a different method of chilling your beer.
No doubts, I have wanted to do this fore some time, and seeing that you did it is all I needed. I wasn't looking down on you or the idea, I was just hoping someone else had some real data about the differences. I think it would be neat to see. I might actually take some before/after samples of identical half's of a brew and run the wort through a mass spec just to see what heavy metal ions went into solution.

I got the stuff to make the changes to my coil, I just was to tired when I got home. I will do it soon and post some pics.

Thanks for showing us it can be done!
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:52 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aiptasia
They aren't better than ice baths, they're faster. And ice is free.
I've isn't "free". You have the cost of electricity, etc. plus the last time I checked you needed a freezer- not free!
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:49 AM   #55
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"What did we learn in school kids? Two dissimilar metals in an electrolytic solution is a battery! And a battery in said unbalanced solution, means there would be electrolysis going on and displacing copper, lead and/or zinc ions into our precious wort."

The fittings on the guys chiller aren't in the wort. Copper is used in breweries for kettles and tuns, still is used and and has been for many years. The acid in wort isn't an oxidizing acid. It won't turn copper or solder green. However, it is electrolytic. There isn't enough acid in wort to cause a problem with the copper or the solder, in the hour or so that the wort is in contact with the metals. Yeast doesn't seem to have a problem with it. Silver bearing or no lead solder is used these days. Or, 45% silver braze can be used if there is a phobia about stuff leaching out. A copper fermenter would be another story. Due to the lowered pH and the longer time the fermenting beer is in contact with the copper. Since you have ran miles of pipe. Have you ever looked inside of a fitting, where the pipe bottoms out? When properly soldered. The amount of solder filling the gap between the pipe and fitting, is about the diameter of a hair. Not a lot of surface area touching the liquid. But, slop a bunch of flux all over the pipe and inside the fitting and overheat the fitting, expanding it. Will allow the flux to run down the inside of the pipe or fitting and the solder will follow it.

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Old 02-14-2013, 02:29 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VladOfTrub View Post
"What did we learn in school kids? Two dissimilar metals in an electrolytic solution is a battery! And a battery in said unbalanced solution, means there would be electrolysis going on and displacing copper, lead and/or zinc ions into our precious wort."

The fittings on the guys chiller aren't in the wort. Copper is used in breweries for kettles and tuns, still is used and and has been for many years. The acid in wort isn't an oxidizing acid. It won't turn copper or solder green. However, it is electrolytic. There isn't enough acid in wort to cause a problem with the copper or the solder, in the hour or so that the wort is in contact with the metals. Yeast doesn't seem to have a problem with it. Silver bearing or no lead solder is used these days. Or, 45% silver braze can be used if there is a phobia about stuff leaching out. A copper fermenter would be another story. Due to the lowered pH and the longer time the fermenting beer is in contact with the copper. Since you have ran miles of pipe. Have you ever looked inside of a fitting, where the pipe bottoms out? When properly soldered. The amount of solder filling the gap between the pipe and fitting, is about the diameter of a hair. Not a lot of surface area touching the liquid. But, slop a bunch of flux all over the pipe and inside the fitting and overheat the fitting, expanding it. Will allow the flux to run down the inside of the pipe or fitting and the solder will follow it.
B33R posted this pic of a coil, I circled the elbows. My coil, the way I built it, when soldered will have many many many soldered joints in the wort. I really have to phobias about it, I was just curious about the information. I'm going to do this, I have nothing against anyone or their technic, in fact that's why I'm here, to learn from others. I think people are reading my posts as angry or something, when in fact they are far from it. Hopfully soon I will find time to do the rebuild on my coil. I would have done it this week, but it was so nice out I have been busy brewing instead.
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Come say hi on Facebook and "like" the effort!

In fermentors: 8 batches of beer and 3 batches of wine
In Bottles: Chocolate Stout, Hoppy Wheat Amber, Tripple IPA, Red Beer, Malty Goodness, Heffe, Cider

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