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Old 02-15-2007, 04:55 PM   #21
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I like the versatility of the round, but that's just me. In the end, I don't think it matters a hill of beans what shape it is as long as it drains sufficiently.

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Old 02-15-2007, 05:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
In the end, I don't think it matters a hill of beans what shape it is as long as it drains sufficiently.
I think you can say that for batch sparging. I don't think you can say that for fly sparging.

Something else nobody is talking about is heat loss due to the cooler being too large.

The 36 quart (9 gallon) rect cooler I have in my gallery is too large for regular or light 5 gallon brews. 8 pounds x 1.33 Q/pound = 3.33 gallons or a little over 1/3 of the volume. The grain bed isn't deep enough to do a good job for fly sparging.

I emailed CSP about shipping the coolers to Calgary via US mail. Here is what they replied with:

3 gallon 18.50 parel post 16.60 economey money
5 gallon 21.15 18.20
10 gallon 25.75 20.20

air mail parcel post is 4-10 days. and economy is 4-6 weeks

Its fairly expensive to ship these things.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheesefood
I like the versatility of the round, but that's just me. In the end, I don't think it matters a hill of beans what shape it is as long as it drains sufficiently.
I read the shape matters. Too tall increases compaction of the grain bed. Too wide reduces the extract yield.

I think that having an overly large mash tun would have more heat loss due to the extra air space. The top not being in contact with insulation. Larger means it has more themal mass to absorb heat. Robbing it from the mash.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html

This is John Palmers 2 cents on choosing a cooler.

I bought a 5 gallon because I'm goin to start doing partials w/o the grain bag and this is what he recommended.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:43 PM   #24
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After buying a couple 5 gallon coolers, I also came to the conclusion I should have gone with the 10. (I like big beers)

My local HD had the 10 gallon for 39.99 when I was there Thursday, but I was in my Miata and it would have been a tight fit. I went back Sunday and they were gone. The garden guy said they only had 4 and were closing them out for the season. When I have time, I'll try the other HD's a bit further away.

Ace and Target(?) have them for 50 with free delivery to their stores. You pickup at the store.

If anyone finds a better deal, shout out.

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Old 02-15-2007, 06:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlenkerla
I read the shape matters. Too tall increases compaction of the grain bed. Too wide reduces the extract yield.
Tell that to my wife.
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Old 02-15-2007, 08:22 PM   #26
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Prior to my cooler, I did the bucket in a bucket trick for sparging. With a big grain load, the bed was pretty deep. I've never had a stuck sparge. I think the key is the proper grind, the right temp and a well draining bottom and drain it rather slowly.

The real breweries have bed depths measured in feet ! Surely a 16" bed depth wouldn't be a problem for us homebrewers.

My theory is the deeper the bed, the better the extraction because each grain has more water going by it. I might be wrong though, I'm just postulating.

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Old 02-16-2007, 01:17 AM   #27
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I Just got back from the Home Depot In Mount Prospect Illinois- Bought a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler for $39. They had 1 left.

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Old 02-16-2007, 02:43 AM   #28
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Here's where I bought mine:

http://www.cspoutdoors.com/10galwatcool.html

It says Gott Industrial on the front. I'm happy.

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Old 02-16-2007, 03:38 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheesefood
Tell that to my wife.
If that will make you feel better!!!

For your benefit I'll tell her smaller is more energy efficient.

Does she fiddle with your petcock for slower extraction?
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:33 PM   #30
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Thanks for the tip, Raceskier, on the Ace in store free delivery. This is The Pol's SWMBO, I ordered it for him...otherwise the cheapskate would never have gotten it and the research and bitchin' would have lasted a lifetime LOL...I hope this makes him happy.

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