Try a different lock nut as well. The locknut I got with my weldless didn't have a lip for the oring to sit in. I managed to get it sealed but after many tries. I put a Therm/Sightglass fitting in next to it with a lock nut that had the seating. No leaks on the first try.
Bargin Fittings has them for sure.
You also need two O-rings. One for the inside and one outside. the washer on the inside compresses and the locknut on the outside compresses.
Other than that, I'm quite pleased with my weldless DIY jobs. You just have to get the right amount of tightness and then rotate as needed. . Also helps to have drilling/cutting oil and a step bit. I always keep the fitting nearby to test fit it.
i just got a Keggle from conpewter (thanks!) and i'm installing a weldless ball valve from morebeer.com, and i can't get the thing to not leak. if i overtighten it, the oring squishes out to the side of the washer. i put a bunch of teflon tape over the threads.. i'm running out of ideas... should i flatten the side of the keg so it sits flush?
Also - assuming it's not a huge drip (I consider a small drip to be one every 10-15 seconds or less) don't worry about it... what is the worst that is going to happen? You might lose 1/4 of a cup of wort or hot water during the entire 8 hours.
Mine drip - I don't worry about it. The best thing I did was not do anything other than hand tighten.
Using a short nipple vs a close a nipple, short nipple will have 3/8" to 1/2" of threadless center area. True sealing across threads is a leak waiting to happen.
Brewbeemer is right. If you can set it up so that the inside Oring sits on the "flat" or unthreaded spot on the nipple, you'll have much better luck and you won't even need an Oring on the outside. The difficulty in setting this up is that you'll likely need a good 3-5 washers on the inside to make up the distance between the coupling and the nipple's unthreaded portion. You can also throw a locknut on the inside to negate this.
I have the same battle here.
My last hope is this, and it might draw some fire, who knows.
What if I bought a Ching Chen pow Deng gasket cutter from harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3838
and made something like a hose gasket which shouldn't compress out
of the seal area? Next order is to find a not too toxic gasket material??
Anyone try this??
Rock on
Blue RTV Silicon is the way tp stop the leaks. Trust me it works... it is fine up to 500 degrees. That is what I use. Also, I have heard of people using JB weld with success.
__________________
"I don't drink to find happiness. Coincidentally. I do enjoy listening to you much more after a beer or three."
I have the same battle here.
My last hope is this, and it might draw some fire, who knows.
What if I bought a Ching Chen pow Deng gasket cutter from harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3838
and made something like a hose gasket which shouldn't compress out
of the seal area? Next order is to find a not too toxic gasket material??
Anyone try this??
Rock on
Gore-tex gasket is all I use, and for good reason.
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