Gabe

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When using pure O2 from the Bernzomatic (red)tanks, how long do you oxygenate your wort for? I have the 26" long wand with .5 micron stone on the end, with hose and regulator to tank, should I use a filter as well in this setup?
Cheers

abracadabra

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I usually go for about 1 minute on a ten gallon batch. My unit came with a filter but I really don't see the need. That being said the filters are cheap insurance.

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malkore

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30-45 seconds on a 5 gallon batch here. seems to do the trick.

Note, you'll likely get slightly longer lag phases, because the yeast consume all that oxygen...far more oxygen than 'shaking the crap out of it before pitching' will ever get you.

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Malkore
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BrewSapiens

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I don't use the filter either. 45sec.-1min. is what I give it. You don't have to open the regulator all the way or you'll just waste o2.

Maine Homebrewer

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I haven't found the point, I get a good product and I don't even do the "shake the crap out of it" routine.
All I do is very slowly pour from the kettle into the bucket from as high as I can, though the foam makes checking the OG a bit of a hassle.

If someone can tell me how spending more money and having more stuff to clean will make my brew better then let me know, but I haven't yet had a problem that this is supposed to fix.

Bobby_M

Recipes 

You'll have a batch that won't ferment out eventually but you won't buy into O2 until it happens once or twice. There are a lot of brewing processes that don't require it like low to mid gravity worts, partial boils, dry yeasts, and huge cell count pitches (like from a starter). If your brew doesn't fit any of those, you can use it.

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uwmgdman

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+1, not to mention if you open the valve all the way you'll foam the hell out of your wort

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FlyingHorse

Recipes 

It's not necessarily about making your brew better (though it might -- hard to tell unless you do a side-by-side test); it's about increasing the probability that your beer will be good. Very few commonly accepted brewing techniques are of the "if you do this, your beer will be good, and if you don't your beer will be bad" variety. It's possible to make good beer by (among other things):
- using straight tap water for your mash, with no added minerals
- using unboiled tap water to top up your extract batch
- not using a yeast starter
- not aerating your wort
- using bleach to sanitize
- using an open fermenter
...and on and on. There are examples of people doing all these things here on HBT, and making good beer. The reason most people don't do all of those things is that -- across a large number of batches, of different syles and using different equipment setups -- the alternative has been shown to increase the likelihood that your beer will be good.

If you're making good beer now, no reason to change. But like Bobby_M said, you may someday run across a batch where you'll have a problem that oxygenation could have prevented.

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springer

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because its the nature of homebrewers to have as much crap as they can fit in the garage ,shed and storage unit....


I used to take 2 buckets and pour 1/2 from one to the other. I bought the O2 kit from b3 a few weeks ago it was easy to sanitise and use.I cant say the fermentation was faster as I was doing a Lager with a large starter Its all personal preference

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abracadabra

Recipes 

LOL


It's not just homebrewers. It's the whole country! More stuff everywhere. The average garage is now almost as large as the average home from the 1950's. And the vast majority of those garages are full of stuff while the cars sit out on the driveway. And I'm as guilty as anybody.

But oxygenation is just faster than aeration whether aeration is acomplished by shaking the daylights out of a container, pouring it from as high as you can get it or you use an aquarium pump to do the work for you.

IMHO oxygenation is not any better just a time saver. And the vast majority of us can benefit from any time saving device we can get our hands on.

Althought letting an aquarium pump run for 20 minutes while I do something else doesn't waste much time.

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