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05-06-2010, 11:13 PM
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#1
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Menlo Park
Posts: 133
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Tri-clamp through-bulkhead fixture?
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I'm designing my brewery upgrade and I would like to standardize on Tri-Clover Clamps, preferably sanitary (i.e. no threads). I can figure out how to get tri-clamps most anywhere, but there are a couple places where it seems like the only solution is to introduce threads into the joint. My patch panel is one.
I want to mount my pumps, heat exchanger, heating element, and various and sundry plumbing behind an acrylic panel. My HLT, MT, and BK will have inlet and outlet hoses terminated with tri-clamps. I want to attach these hoses to fixtures on the front of the panel that connect to the plumbing behind. I've never seen a tri-clover fixture made for this and I can't imagine how it could be made without threads.
I can imagine how to create a through-bulkhead fixture with a short MNPT-MNPT nipple and a couple of FNPT-Tri adapters. But I don't want the threads, and I can't weld the fixtures to the acrylic panel.
Any suggestions?
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05-07-2010, 02:47 AM
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#2
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 362
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts Likes Given: 1
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weld a flange behind the ferrule and bolt the flange to the acrylic.
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05-07-2010, 04:00 AM
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#3
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DINAB
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Huntington Beach
Posts: 8,804
Liked 76 Times on 66 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Send Derrin an email. He might be able to fabricate what you're looking for.
http://www.brewershardware.com/
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Hey, knock that shvt off. We're drinkin' here.
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05-07-2010, 11:36 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
Posts: 8,458
Liked 94 Times on 84 Posts Likes Given: 11
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Talk to Derrin, he can probably weld it up for you.
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05-07-2010, 05:08 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Menlo Park
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter
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That's a good idea. I sent a PM off to Derrin. Thanks for the design and the nice drawing!
Wait a minute... How does the tri-clover flange on the inside (the right side in this drawing) attach to the welded-in tubing?
Last edited by wuertele; 05-07-2010 at 05:12 PM.
Reason: realized I didn't understand one part
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05-07-2010, 05:10 PM
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#7
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Menlo Park
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samc
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Samc, I am trying to understand what you mean. I think those lock rings could hold a tube with no flanges, but if there are flanges on both sides of the tube, how do I get the tube through the hole?
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05-07-2010, 11:45 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Catonsville, MD
Posts: 424
Liked 12 Times on 11 Posts Likes Given: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuertele
Samc, I am trying to understand what you mean. I think those lock rings could hold a tube with no flanges, but if there are flanges on both sides of the tube, how do I get the tube through the hole?
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I think the understanding is that you would have to weld on either the outside or the inside of the box since the tri-clamps obviously won't fit through the tubing OD holes.
Just curious about why you need a patch panel and why mount it in acrylic? Have any system diagrams on hand to help clarify?
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Last edited by TheFlyingBeer; 05-08-2010 at 03:59 AM.
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05-08-2010, 12:45 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 3,655
Liked 32 Times on 31 Posts
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The acrylic thing is puzzling. If you are going to do all tri-clamp, pay for custom welding on everything, why not a stainless patch panel and weld to that?
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05-08-2010, 03:09 PM
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#10
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Menlo Park
Posts: 133
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Well, a stainless panel is an option. But I'm going to have lots of bling behind the panel and I thought it would be a shame to hide it.
My current idea is to make the hole in the acrylic just big enough to pass a tri-clover flange, and have a disk welded to the center of the tri-clover tube that covers the hole and bolts onto the acrylic.
If I can't find any better way to do this, I might give up and go for the SS panel. But I'm going to give it more thought.
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