Newest Threads

**eastoak** · 01-28-2013, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuckerl

Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.

this should work with any recirculating set up since all you are doing is keeping the temperature steady.

dcbc · 01-29-2013, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuckerl

Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.

If you can recirculate the wort with no problems at a pretty good rate (I usually do my control valve about 1/4 open with a March 815), it should work fine.

Bashiba · 04-02-2013, 05:25 PM

I'm hooking up a Mash Control Module this week to my system, I honestly haven't really read through the instructions yet or maybe I would know the answer, but how do you start your Mash with it connected?

I'm using a 20 gallon Blichmann for a Mash Tun and recirculate the length of the mash.

Typically I would add water, heat it up to about +5 degrees over target mash temp then stir in grain, usually I would have to heat it up a touch after the fact to get to the temp, then recirculate and I would generally give it another couple shots of heat throughout the mash to try and keep it level.

So in this case can I turn the pump on immediately and set the Module to temp, then just add the grain when it gets to temp? Or would I just do it manually as before and turn the module on once I have already Mashed in and have gotten it close to the desired temp?

**weirdboy** · 04-02-2013, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tuckerl

Any thoughts on how well this would work with a BIAB setup? It seems like it would be a great controller out of the box to work with my system.

Yeah it sounds like maybe the experience with stuck mashes involve the false bottom, which I eschew in favor of BIAB as well. The one and only time I ever had a problem with the BIAB recirculating was when I didn't put the false bottom in as a spacer, and the bag got sucked up into the dip tube as a result.

dcbc · 04-03-2013, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bashiba

I'm hooking up a Mash Control Module this week to my system, I honestly haven't really read through the instructions yet or maybe I would know the answer, but how do you start your Mash with it connected?

I'm using a 20 gallon Blichmann for a Mash Tun and recirculate the length of the mash.

Typically I would add water, heat it up to about +5 degrees over target mash temp then stir in grain, usually I would have to heat it up a touch after the fact to get to the temp, then recirculate and I would generally give it another couple shots of heat throughout the mash to try and keep it level.

So in this case can I turn the pump on immediately and set the Module to temp, then just add the grain when it gets to temp? Or would I just do it manually as before and turn the module on once I have already Mashed in and have gotten it close to the desired temp?

I use a 20 gallon kettle with a false bottom. Here is my procedure, which is basically recommended in the TOP owner's manual.

Add strike water, start pump, set module to desired temp (this temp can be 5--10 over, whatever you would do to try to hit your mash temp). When it gets to temp, turn the module and pump off. Dough in, and stir well.

Now, here's the important part. Put the lid on, and walk away. Leave it for 10 minutes so everything can settle.

After 10 minutes, come back, and start the pump (slowly). Once things are flowing, increase the flow to about 1.5+ gallons per minute (or whatever the recommended flow rate is---for me, it's with the valve about half open on a March 815.

Once the mash liquor is recirculating, dial in your mash temp on the module, and turn it to auto.

With this method, I have had no problems with stuck mash, even with a 55% wheat grist bill with no rice hulls.

YMMV

Bashiba · 04-03-2013, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcbc

I use a 20 gallon kettle with a false bottom. Here is my procedure, which is basically recommended in the TOP owner's manual.

Add strike water, start pump, set module to desired temp (this temp can be 5--10 over, whatever you would do to try to hit your mash temp). When it gets to temp, turn the module and pump off. Dough in, and stir well.

Now, here's the important part. Put the lid on, and walk away. Leave it for 10 minutes so everything can settle.

After 10 minutes, come back, and start the pump (slowly). Once things are flowing, increase the flow to about 1.5+ gallons per minute (or whatever the recommended flow rate is---for me, it's with the valve about half open on a March 815.

Once the mash liquor is recirculating, dial in your mash temp on the module, and turn it to auto.

With this method, I have had no problems with stuck mash, even with a 55% wheat grist bill with no rice hulls.

YMMV

Sounds pretty good, but what is the reasoning of the 10 minute wait? I have never waited 10 minutes before to recirculate and I have never had a stuck mash in the blichmann.

NMG318 · 04-03-2013, 04:03 PM

The 10 minutes allows the grain to absorb the water. I found out the hard way not to skip this step.

Bashiba · 04-03-2013, 04:38 PM

Ok that makes sense, the pump is pulling the grain together then it absorbs water and expands and that causes it to stick. I guess I have been lucky its never been a problem before for me.

dcbc · 04-04-2013, 02:00 PM

Right, it's mainly to let it absorb. But on my system, it helps to let it settle. I batch sparge, and I recently discovered the hard way that when I add my sparge water, and stir up the grain bed, that if I don't let it settle before running the pump, I will get enough grain in the hoses at once to clog on the hose barbs. My barbs on my QDs are not the higher flow versions that have come out recently. So giving my mash a little time to settle is a good idea.

**brehuh** · 04-17-2013, 12:36 AM

Will the igniter work with the high pressure bayou burner?