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09-21-2009, 02:46 AM
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#1
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
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Tips on connecting CFC hoses
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I am having trouble connecting a 3/8" hose to my CFC without leaks. A picture is below. The hose connects to a 3/8" copper tube on the CFC. The metal clamps I am using dont create a continuous seal all the way around, something you can see if you look closely at the 2nd pic.
Any ideas for a better clamp, or connection method?

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09-21-2009, 02:48 AM
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#2
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Location: Columbia, SC
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BTW - I will probably replace that clear tubing with thermoplastic tubing this week. That stuff got pretty soft during a test boil.
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09-21-2009, 02:52 AM
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#3
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Vendor and Brewer
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I'd go with a quick disconnect setup or at least put a hose barb on there. If all else fails, slide a piece of larger tubing over where you're clamping so the hose clamp diameter stays a little bigger.
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09-21-2009, 03:21 AM
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#4
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Location: Columbia, SC
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Would you mind linking to the quick disconnect parts I would need? I'm not picturing what I would attach to the 3/8" copper tube.
Or if I went the hose barb route, what part would I need?
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09-21-2009, 03:34 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cereal City, USA
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you need a smaller diameter of worm clamp. your trying to use a clamp that is designed for 3/4" tubing min. look in the hardware store for some that go down into the 3/8" size
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09-21-2009, 03:39 AM
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#6
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Vendor and Brewer
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You'll have more flexibility if you can solder. I usually hack off a short piece of tubing and bring it to lowes with me and test fit the fittings. If you need a non solder connection, you can start with a compression fitting with 1/2" NPT threads. From there you can use a 1/2" female thread to 3/8 hose barb.
mcmaster.com Search for items 6739K59 and 6739K68.
If you can solder, grab the first item above:
Drill a shallow 3/8" hole inside where the threads are and just sweat the tubing in. The female QD listed second has a barb.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
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09-21-2009, 04:19 AM
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#7
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Location: Littleton, CO
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Another option, if you aren't confident in your ability to sweat a fitting, would be to add a compression fitting on the end of the copper tubing with a 3/8 barb or QD. However, a sweated fitting would be (a) less expensive, provided you own a torch or some kind, and (b) more durable.
Since your location's isn't provided, OP, I have no clue where you are. If you were in Denver, I'd volunteer myself to sweat a couple of fittings for you.
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09-21-2009, 04:23 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cereal City, USA
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that looks an awful lot like the one that fsr402 has...are you by chance located in the grand rapids area of michigan?
__________________
primary1 :UTOPIA BABY(still searching for it)
secondary:middling bastard ipa
kegged:simcoe blonde, crystal pale ale, yellow jacket golden ale, lemon shandy blonde
DRINKIN DAWG BREWERY
LET'S GO RED WINGS
join michigan mashers here
extraction calculator
grains in pounds(G) X 36(average points per gallon of grains) / batch size in gallons(g) = maximum efficiency(ME)
OG / ME = brewhouse efficiency
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09-21-2009, 05:06 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
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Upgrading to 3/8" ID thermoplastic tubing should solve your problem, which you are already doing. You will get a much better seal with that stuff. No need to solder or use quick disconnects in my opinion. As mentioned above, get some smaller hose clamps as well.
Last edited by HarkinBanks; 09-21-2009 at 05:08 AM.
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09-21-2009, 05:17 PM
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#10
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Kwanesum Chinook Illahee
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Location: Portland, OR
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I went the compression fitting route to add the QD's. Unless someone else does before me I'll post pictures this evening. Couldn't be happier with the QD's on there now.
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