Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Tips on connecting CFC hoses
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-21-2009, 03:46 AM   #1
Croy9000
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 56
Default Tips on connecting CFC hoses

I am having trouble connecting a 3/8" hose to my CFC without leaks. A picture is below. The hose connects to a 3/8" copper tube on the CFC. The metal clamps I am using dont create a continuous seal all the way around, something you can see if you look closely at the 2nd pic.

Any ideas for a better clamp, or connection method?



__________________
Croy9000 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 03:48 AM   #2
Croy9000
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 56
Default

BTW - I will probably replace that clear tubing with thermoplastic tubing this week. That stuff got pretty soft during a test boil.

__________________
Croy9000 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 03:52 AM   #3
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,252
Liked 1056 Times on 704 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

I'd go with a quick disconnect setup or at least put a hose barb on there. If all else fails, slide a piece of larger tubing over where you're clamping so the hose clamp diameter stays a little bigger.

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New 100% Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc. Did you know we are also now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 04:21 AM   #4
Croy9000
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 56
Default

Would you mind linking to the quick disconnect parts I would need? I'm not picturing what I would attach to the 3/8" copper tube.

Or if I went the hose barb route, what part would I need?

__________________
Croy9000 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 04:34 AM   #5
eriktlupus
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
eriktlupus's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cereal City, USA
Posts: 2,654
Liked 10 Times on 8 Posts

Default

you need a smaller diameter of worm clamp. your trying to use a clamp that is designed for 3/4" tubing min. look in the hardware store for some that go down into the 3/8" size

__________________

primary1 :UTOPIA BABY(still searching for it)
secondary:middling bastard ipa
kegged:simcoe blonde, crystal pale ale, yellow jacket golden ale, lemon shandy blonde
DRINKIN DAWG BREWERY
LET'S GO RED WINGS


join michigan mashers here

extraction calculator
grains in pounds(G) X 36(average points per gallon of grains) / batch size in gallons(g) = maximum efficiency(ME)
OG / ME = brewhouse efficiency

eriktlupus is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 04:39 AM   #6
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 22,252
Liked 1056 Times on 704 Posts
Likes Given: 28

Default

You'll have more flexibility if you can solder. I usually hack off a short piece of tubing and bring it to lowes with me and test fit the fittings. If you need a non solder connection, you can start with a compression fitting with 1/2" NPT threads. From there you can use a 1/2" female thread to 3/8 hose barb.

mcmaster.com Search for items 6739K59 and 6739K68.

If you can solder, grab the first item above:

Drill a shallow 3/8" hole inside where the threads are and just sweat the tubing in. The female QD listed second has a barb.

__________________
BrewHardware.com has a new website. Please check it out and let me know what you think!
New 100% Stainless Steel Heating Elements are IN!
Chugger Pumps, Pump Kits, Camlocks, Sightglasses, Clear USA made Silicone Tubing, RIMS, Electric Install Parts, etc. Did you know we are also now a full service homebrew shop selling malt, hops, yeast (Wyeast), etc?
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 05:19 AM   #7
jds
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jds's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 1,947
Liked 18 Times on 15 Posts

Default

Another option, if you aren't confident in your ability to sweat a fitting, would be to add a compression fitting on the end of the copper tubing with a 3/8 barb or QD. However, a sweated fitting would be (a) less expensive, provided you own a torch or some kind, and (b) more durable.

Since your location's isn't provided, OP, I have no clue where you are. If you were in Denver, I'd volunteer myself to sweat a couple of fittings for you.

__________________
jds is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 05:23 AM   #8
eriktlupus
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
eriktlupus's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cereal City, USA
Posts: 2,654
Liked 10 Times on 8 Posts

Default

that looks an awful lot like the one that fsr402 has...are you by chance located in the grand rapids area of michigan?

__________________

primary1 :UTOPIA BABY(still searching for it)
secondary:middling bastard ipa
kegged:simcoe blonde, crystal pale ale, yellow jacket golden ale, lemon shandy blonde
DRINKIN DAWG BREWERY
LET'S GO RED WINGS


join michigan mashers here

extraction calculator
grains in pounds(G) X 36(average points per gallon of grains) / batch size in gallons(g) = maximum efficiency(ME)
OG / ME = brewhouse efficiency

eriktlupus is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 06:06 AM   #9
HarkinBanks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wayne, PA
Posts: 687
Liked 7 Times on 7 Posts

Default

Upgrading to 3/8" ID thermoplastic tubing should solve your problem, which you are already doing. You will get a much better seal with that stuff. No need to solder or use quick disconnects in my opinion. As mentioned above, get some smaller hose clamps as well.

__________________
Proud member of the CB20 club
Final Int-E-gration 120v (CB20 HERMS Batch or BIAB)

6th Street Brewing Company

HarkinBanks is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2009, 06:17 PM   #10
ShortSnoutBrewing
Kwanesum Chinook Illahee
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ShortSnoutBrewing's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,266
Liked 12 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I went the compression fitting route to add the QD's. Unless someone else does before me I'll post pictures this evening. Couldn't be happier with the QD's on there now.

__________________
www.facebook.com/shortsnoutbrewing
www.twitter.com/ShortSnoutBrew
www.shortsnoutbrewing.com
ShortSnoutBrewing is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale - WTT Propane Burner tips for Nat Gas tips Mirilis For Sale 0 05-28-2009 06:39 PM
Connecting co2 lines. What kind? pedalmedic Bottling/Kegging 2 12-22-2008 03:20 PM
Connecting to Chat VIA Pidgin? Timber HomeBrewTalk Announcements & Feedback 2 12-08-2008 07:13 AM
Connecting two regulators - how? jacksonbrown Bottling/Kegging 0 04-17-2008 08:46 PM
connecting 3 CO2 regulators robnog Bottling/Kegging 2 03-07-2008 06:55 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS