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-   -   Tips on connecting CFC hoses (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/tips-connecting-cfc-hoses-137745/)

Croy9000 09-21-2009 02:46 AM

Tips on connecting CFC hoses
 
I am having trouble connecting a 3/8" hose to my CFC without leaks. A picture is below. The hose connects to a 3/8" copper tube on the CFC. The metal clamps I am using dont create a continuous seal all the way around, something you can see if you look closely at the 2nd pic.

Any ideas for a better clamp, or connection method?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2425/...9cfa7570fb.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2550/...1370267742.jpg

Croy9000 09-21-2009 02:48 AM

BTW - I will probably replace that clear tubing with thermoplastic tubing this week. That stuff got pretty soft during a test boil.

Bobby_M 09-21-2009 02:52 AM

I'd go with a quick disconnect setup or at least put a hose barb on there. If all else fails, slide a piece of larger tubing over where you're clamping so the hose clamp diameter stays a little bigger.

Croy9000 09-21-2009 03:21 AM

Would you mind linking to the quick disconnect parts I would need? I'm not picturing what I would attach to the 3/8" copper tube.

Or if I went the hose barb route, what part would I need?

eriktlupus 09-21-2009 03:34 AM

you need a smaller diameter of worm clamp. your trying to use a clamp that is designed for 3/4" tubing min. look in the hardware store for some that go down into the 3/8" size

Bobby_M 09-21-2009 03:39 AM

You'll have more flexibility if you can solder. I usually hack off a short piece of tubing and bring it to lowes with me and test fit the fittings. If you need a non solder connection, you can start with a compression fitting with 1/2" NPT threads. From there you can use a 1/2" female thread to 3/8 hose barb.

mcmaster.com Search for items 6739K59 and 6739K68.

If you can solder, grab the first item above: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images.../6739k52_l.gif

Drill a shallow 3/8" hole inside where the threads are and just sweat the tubing in. The female QD listed second has a barb.

jds 09-21-2009 04:19 AM

Another option, if you aren't confident in your ability to sweat a fitting, would be to add a compression fitting on the end of the copper tubing with a 3/8 barb or QD. However, a sweated fitting would be (a) less expensive, provided you own a torch or some kind, and (b) more durable.

Since your location's isn't provided, OP, I have no clue where you are. If you were in Denver, I'd volunteer myself to sweat a couple of fittings for you.

eriktlupus 09-21-2009 04:23 AM

that looks an awful lot like the one that fsr402 has...are you by chance located in the grand rapids area of michigan?

HarkinBanks 09-21-2009 05:06 AM

Upgrading to 3/8" ID thermoplastic tubing should solve your problem, which you are already doing. You will get a much better seal with that stuff. No need to solder or use quick disconnects in my opinion. As mentioned above, get some smaller hose clamps as well.

ShortSnoutBrewing 09-21-2009 05:17 PM

I went the compression fitting route to add the QD's. Unless someone else does before me I'll post pictures this evening. Couldn't be happier with the QD's on there now.


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