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**climateboy** · 02-27-2009, 03:50 PM

...and, I'm not sure. I just got a 10 gallon round cooler for my mash tun, and I'm contemplating installing a weldless thermometer (Zymico). But the idea of drilling into that puppy makes me more than a little nervous. Does anyone have any experiences, ideas, suggestions they could share?

Thanks,

CB

**IrregularPulse** · 02-27-2009, 03:54 PM

well the cooler will be mostly useless without some sort of hole in it. Have you looked at this forum before?

Look in the DIY section. All cooler Mash Tuns (~99%, I'm sure someone is using a grain sac) have drain valve, temperature probes ect in them.

Suggestion: Drill the hole and buy the weldless kit here

**climateboy** · 02-27-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IrregularPulse

well the cooler will be mostly useless without some sort of hole in it. Have you looked at this forum before?

Look in the DIY section. All cooler Mash Tuns (~99%, I'm sure someone is using a grain sac) have drain valve, temperature probes ect in them.

Suggestion: Drill the hole and buy the weldless kit here

Yah, I've been looking around for advice. I know it has a hole in it already! I have a ball valve for it. But that doesn't involve drilling anything.

**harley03** · 02-27-2009, 04:40 PM

I would not drill another hole in the cooler if you can help it. I just use a floating thermometer which I just leave in there. If I want to know the temp I just remove the lid real quick and do a temperature check with the floating thermometer or my quick read digital. Heck after using my Rubbermaid 10 round cooler for many batches now I only loose a few degrees over 60 minutes anyway no big deal.

cactusgarrett · 02-27-2009, 04:57 PM

I'd be more apt to screw around with the lid, regarding a "stationary" probe. Something gets screwed up or leaks, you're better to have a leaky lid than a leaky bottom-of-your-mashtun.

**climateboy** · 02-27-2009, 05:41 PM

Yah, I'm with the both of you. A lot of folks around here seem nonchalant about drilling into that cooler, and, I dunno, it seems wrong. I have a drilled stainless steel kettle for a dump valve and a thermometer, but I let Northern Brewer do that.

springer · 02-27-2009, 05:43 PM

I would suggest that the outer hole be big enough so that the weldless fitting sits against the inner wall. It would be darn near impossible IMO to tighten the fitting without crushing the insulation.

Gosassin · 02-27-2009, 05:47 PM

If you're looking to install the ball valve, you can drill out a hole with the appropriate-size holesaw and then insert a piece of PVC pipe the same length as the width of the cooler wall and glue it in place with some silicone. Then when you tighten the ball valve assembly the cooler wall won't give and you'll get a good watertight seal. I read that idea somewhere on this forum and it works like a champ! Note: you need to make the hole in the outer wall slightly larger than the hole in the inner wall so the PVC has something to rest on/press against.

**climateboy** · 02-27-2009, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gosassin

If you're looking to install the ball valve, you can drill out a hole with the appropriate-size holesaw and then insert a piece of PVC pipe the same length as the width of the cooler wall and glue it in place with some silicone. Then when you tighten the ball valve assembly the cooler wall won't give and you'll get a good watertight seal. I read that idea somewhere on this forum and it works like a champ! Note: you need to make the hole in the outer wall slightly larger than the hole in the inner wall so the PVC has something to rest on/press against.

I thought to install the ball valve, you just pop out the spigot and install the valve there.

TwoHeadsBrewing · 02-27-2009, 06:11 PM

IMHO, a temp gauge on the MLT is not necessary. Just take the temp after your mash in and stir well. Then close it up and forget about it, figuring on 1 degree change in one hour. Unless you plan on doing multi-step mashes, electric MLT, etc. I wouldn't even worry about it.