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Old 03-30-2009, 05:50 PM   #11
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The sleeve is an interesting concept. I would have to see one to see how it could be accomplished.
These inductor tanks have been around for a long while. Inductor tanks were originally intended/engineered for mixing chemicals when filling a larger tank. It's called an inductor tank, because it is meant to introduce chemicals into a larger system. It just so happens the the material used and the 60 degree cone is also ideal for making wine, beer, and biodiesel. In short, the production of wine/beer/bio were unintended applications for the tank. The manufacturers of these tanks serve the chemical containment industry. I believe that their response to "why don't you make a sleeve or double wall" would be "it serves too narrow of a market for us to invest in the engineering/molding". Ideally, this is where a third party would step in and fill the void.

A double-walled cone bottom tank would be a bitch and a half to mold. In short, you're looking at a two piece mold (an inner closed head tank and a larger outer open top tank) which will cost twice the price of a standard inductor tank AND with a longer lead time.
Theoretically, you could place an inductor tank placed into an open top cone bottom tank (similiar to the ones w/ the poly stands I linked to earlier). The only drawback is trying to install an outlet from the inner tank and through the outer tank. I'm not sure how you would be able to tighten the connections securely enough to pervent the liquid of one tank from entering another.

It was RockfordWhite that stated "I have said this before on pages, I would look for a Norwesco distributer near you and order a induction tank (conical) from them...their lids seal significantly better and I have heard better results from them..."

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Old 03-30-2009, 08:05 PM   #12
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So, I'll throw this out there. First, it may not have to be rigid. Some way of securing a bladder might work quite well.

Maybe I'll TOFTT and try and wrap PEX around one of these.

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Old 03-31-2009, 01:31 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info, Tank. It wasn't meant as a criticism, only an observation. The other question(s) I had were:

-What's the difference between a side mount tank and a normal one?
-What's the difference between one listed as full drain and one that isn't? From the drawings, it looks like both of them have drains but one has a hose clamp along the base...

Thanks for your help

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Old 03-31-2009, 02:10 PM   #14
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I have two 35g Norwesco tanks, I can tell you the top lids do not seal very well. By no means are they air tight without some work. I'm going to make a gasket for mine to get them closer to air tight. It doesn't matter so much for clean fermentation, but I had a RIS make a mess as the krausen was let out the lid rather than through the blow off tube. Check pics below to see the tanks as well as the RIS blowoff. Overall I am happy with the Norwesco tanks, they're very solid and were easy to convert into fermenters, having said that the other makes are probably fine as well.

[Insert Name Here] Brew Club › Forums › General › Chit-Chat › Inductor Tank as Conical Build

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Old 03-31-2009, 03:41 PM   #15
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Mornin' AK
I hadn't taken your earlier question as a criticism and hope my response didn't come off as defensive. I had meant to give a simple "history" of the tank and why the manufacturers haven't done much to improve its functionality for brewing applications.

-What's the difference between a side mount tank and a normal one?
The side mount tanks have 2 vertical flat spots on opposite sides of the tank. This allows the tank to be mounted to a wall or piece of machinery. A normal inductor tank is completely round and requires some sort of frame to keep it upright.

-What's the difference between one listed as full drain and one that isn't? From the drawings, it looks like both of them have drains but one has a hose clamp along the base...
The inductor tanks not listed as "full drain" use a bulkhead fitting as an outlet. ( http://www.tank-depot.com/productima...itting-180.jpg ) Liquids will get stuck between the outside of fitting and the remaining flat spot of the tank. I mean we're talking about 2 oz here, but it's important to note.
The "full drain" tanks have a molded in fitting or a half coupling welded to the bottom of the tank. The fitting is flush with the bottom of the tank (inside) and there is nothing to trap any liquid inside the tank.

I'm pretty sure neither the Ace or Norwesco brand tanks are completely air-tight...now, this is just an educated guess but; since the tanks were engineered to operate at atmospheric pressure, my assumption is that the lids are not "non-vented gasketed" to allow for the release of excess pressure. Thankfully, none of us are dealing with toxic fumes...

Good luck!

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Old 10-19-2009, 03:45 PM   #16
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how would one go about using these tanks as conical fermentors?

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Old 10-19-2009, 03:56 PM   #17
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Build a stand, install plumbing for bottom dump valve, racking arm and valve, filling valve and then clean, sanitize and fill with wort.



[ Click for larger image ]

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Old 10-20-2009, 04:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insnekamkze86 View Post
how would one go about using these tanks as conical fermentors?
good details here http://frugalconicalfermenter.blogspot.com/
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Old 10-29-2010, 01:19 AM   #19
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I'd Like To Buy Two 15g Fermenters from The Tank Depot:-) Which ones should I get? Is there a discount code for HBT members?

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Old 12-18-2010, 03:12 PM   #20
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I know this is an older thread but I just realized that there's a Tank Depot in Jacksonville. This just became much more affordable to me since I won't have to pay shipping. Hopefully, I'll be able to get over there during the week since they're aren't open at all on the weekends.

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