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Old 06-24-2011, 07:21 PM   #431
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I use the insulating jacket. I got it because I brew in my basement now and in the winter it is about 60F. I haven't not used it so I can't tell you how much difference it makes. It is well made and a good, but a little pricey. I've tried different mash schedules, from multi-step (beta and alpha amalyse rests) including protein rests and mashout. My clearest beer was my first which included a protein rest at 122F for 30 minutes, a saccrification rest at 148F for 75 minutes and mashout at 168F for 10 minutes. I also used the schedule that came programmed in the BM, and other variations that increased/decreased rest times at different temperatures. This is the real benefit of the BM. By the way in my last two batches I used a homemade heat stick (1500w) to get a vigorous boil going. I wont know if it made a difference for a few weeks.

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Old 06-24-2011, 08:33 PM   #432
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Originally Posted by hfk2 View Post
I use the insulating jacket. I got it because I brew in my basement now and in the winter it is about 60F. I haven't not used it so I can't tell you how much difference it makes. It is well made and a good, but a little pricey. I've tried different mash schedules, from multi-step (beta and alpha amalyse rests) including protein rests and mashout. My clearest beer was my first which included a protein rest at 122F for 30 minutes, a saccrification rest at 148F for 75 minutes and mashout at 168F for 10 minutes. I also used the schedule that came programmed in the BM, and other variations that increased/decreased rest times at different temperatures. This is the real benefit of the BM. By the way in my last two batches I used a homemade heat stick (1500w) to get a vigorous boil going. I wont know if it made a difference for a few weeks.
Thanks for the input as I was wondering if a longer protein rest made a difference. I've noticed in my last cooler / batch sparge batch, a pre-prohibition lager for my grandfather, that it came out extremely clear compared to past batches - and it was my first all grain batch where I inserted a 20 minute protein rest at 122f.
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:10 PM   #433
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Pulled the trigger on the 20L version and insulating jacket from morebeer.com. I won't receive it until late July as I've got a vacation overlapping when it's coming. Will update everyone with my impressions and initial brew experience.

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Old 06-25-2011, 04:35 AM   #434
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About the haze/cloudiness: for me the wort after mash was perfectly clear, but somehow got cloudy during the boil, I have now bottled one batch, 4 days ago, and it looks very cloudy.

About cooling after boil for the yeast pitch: I bought the 20L starter set so I have the BM provided IC. I run cold water through it from my well, very slow trickle really. First 10 degrees c down to 90c it cools in 1 minute max, the temp goes down very steadily to 20 degrees, no stops, in 20-25 mins. I run the water very slow and it uses about 4 buckets of water in total, which I then use for watering the plants. Very happy about that.

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Old 06-25-2011, 03:13 PM   #435
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Replaced the impellers that Speidel sent to me and the pumps are whisper quiet once again. However....I have a new challenge (video DLing now). My wort keeps shooting out the lid!

I paused the unit, re-stirred the mash and it went another 3-4 minutes and did it again. I paused, let the mash settle and it went another 3-4 minutes and happened again, this time on camera.

Anyone else experience this? The only thing different that I can think of are the impellers. Maybe too much pressure now?

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Old 06-25-2011, 03:31 PM   #436
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Replaced the impellers that Speidel sent to me and the pumps are whisper quiet once again. However....I have a new challenge (video DLing now). My wort keeps shooting out the lid!

I paused the unit, re-stirred the mash and it went another 3-4 minutes and did it again. I paused, let the mash settle and it went another 3-4 minutes and happened again, this time on camera.

Anyone else experience this? The only thing different that I can think of are the impellers. Maybe too much pressure now?
How many pounds of grain and what is the grain bill? I read somewhere that if you have too fine a crush with a lot of grain you can cause it to "fountain".

Found the post from the more beer forum, quoted below.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gustavf
Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcruz
Im kinda curious, how are you getting 1.065 wort when the system limitations are 1.057? you adding dme?
I was surprised to see MoreBeer quote a 1.057 system limit, as there is certainly no problem brewing stronger beer on the system (without DME or a very long boil time). You might have problems with stronger brews than 1.057 if you follow the user guide, which by the way is a horrible translation from German, and do not sparge.

Quote:
Another thing I find hard to believe that your getting 75 to 80% sparging, because in order to reach the 75 to 80% range your sparge would exceed the starting volume capacities of the system. Am I missing something?
You mash with 22-23 liters of water, which is what you need to cover the heating elements when the wort is pumped through the malt pipe. When you lift the malt pipe, there is room for 27 liters underneath the pipe and you can sparge with almost 10 liters of water. The kettle is just under 40 liters, I believe.

If you use the 50 liter version, these numbers are different and if you use the 50 liter version with the short malt pipe you can sparge with "unlimited" amounts of water.

The milling is also important when using this system. I have had the best efficiency when I almost have a stuck mash and the sparging is slightly slower, but too fine milling and the pump will start to build pressure under the malt and the wort will make a channel resulting in a volcano effect. If that happens, you'd better keep the lid on and reach for the pause button.
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:58 PM   #437
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Hi Guys,

After mashing I lift out the malt pipe and pour about 2 liters of hot water through to get residual sugars.I use whirl floc tablets with 20 minutes left in the boil. I use the pump while chilling with the immersion chiller. cools in about 15 minutes. I dump everything in the fermenter and after about a week switch to a secondary, leaving behind all the crud. After 3 brews, all were crystal clear in the glass and very good.
Hope this helps,

Wayne

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Old 06-25-2011, 04:20 PM   #438
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Hi Guys,

After mashing I lift out the malt pipe and pour about 2 liters of hot water through to get residual sugars.I use whirl floc tablets with 20 minutes left in the boil. I use the pump while chilling with the immersion chiller. cools in about 15 minutes. I dump everything in the fermenter and after about a week switch to a secondary, leaving behind all the crud. After 3 brews, all were crystal clear in the glass and very good.
Hope this helps,

Wayne
Wayne - thanks for the feedback! Which version do you own, the 20L or 40L? What mash schedule are you running?
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:24 PM   #439
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How many pounds of grain and what is the grain bill? I read somewhere that if you have too fine a crush with a lot of grain you can cause it to "fountain".

Found the post from the more beer forum, quoted below.
My grain bill:

17 lbs 2 Row
1 lb 60L
1 lb Cara-Pils

I wonder about the crush sometimes. However, I have done 4 other sessions with zero problems. Would almost have to be a "stuck mash" based on the info you mentioned (pumps building too much pressure) which you will hear me speak of too much pressure in my video. Still loading to YouTube. When it is done I will post here.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:28 PM   #440
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Hi Guys,

After mashing I lift out the malt pipe and pour about 2 liters of hot water through to get residual sugars.I use whirl floc tablets with 20 minutes left in the boil. I use the pump while chilling with the immersion chiller. cools in about 15 minutes. I dump everything in the fermenter and after about a week switch to a secondary, leaving behind all the crud. After 3 brews, all were crystal clear in the glass and very good.
Hope this helps,

Wayne
I actually did this today with 1 gallon of 188 degree water. I had to abort my mash session so I figured the mash had been "mashing" sitting still for over an hour total so I would just rinse and get the boil started.

As DeGarre mentioned, do you run your water at a very slow rate thru your chiller? I use a sump pump from Harbor Freight and it has one speed...wide open. I found a way to throttle it so I was thinking of trying the Speidel chiller once more and slow the ice water.
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