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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:13 PM   #1641
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You don't need to buy an extra burner for your sparge water the most water I've used were 11 liters when using the large malt pipe that can easily fit in one or two pots and heat it in your kitchen, also I don't see a reason why you can't preheat water and save it. About this think that you need to keep the water temp for almost two hours but with a good insulated container can be done.
You can make bigger beers with the braumeister longer boils or double mash or both, user Soviet mentioned a 1.093 wort by doing an overnight mash and 3 hour boil. One mash and 70 minute boil got me 1.075 wort two weeks ago... its a little trickier to make bigger beers but I don't brew big beers very often otherwise I'll be wasted 24/7

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Old 08-30-2012, 06:16 PM   #1642
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I forgot to mention that you can make the same beers either with the 20 or 50 liter setup

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Old 08-30-2012, 06:29 PM   #1643
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Anyone figured out methods to increase evaporation rate? Perhaps a fan+heat stick could lower condensing boil time such that high 5G OG batches using 50L malt pipe would be less time consuming.

I think someone had 8% per hour as an approx for BeerSmith. Maybe we can double that to half the time?

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Old 08-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #1644
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Originally Posted by uberg33k View Post
In the mean time, I have two questions:
1. It seems that a fair number of you sparge your malt tube. It is often mentioned that you "need another burner" to achieve this. Is there some reason you can't heat the water up in the Braumeister using manual mode, drain it into an insulated cooler, and hold onto it until sparge time? This would be easier in my mind and not require a second heat source. I haven't seen any mention of anyone doing this.

2. There's a lot of talk of not being able to do big beers on this system, especially on the 20L model. While I understand this isn't an acceptable option for some, is there any reason you can't do an extra long boil to concentrate your wort? Doing some quick math, it would seem that you could load the unit up with about 13 lbs of grain and boil down to about 3 gals and have a 1.110 wort. Would boiling for that long hurt the unit or beer somehow that I'm not aware of?
1. I lift my malt pipe and let is drain as I activate the boil. After a bit I press the grains with my mash paddle. Using this method I've got 82% efficiency. I recently grabbed a "hot pot" (Sharper Image brand from Tuesday morning ~$50) that holds approx 2L of water at 170*. Using that to re-hydrate the grains and press with paddle again I get approx ~85-90% efficiency. [btw I use latic acid to adjust mash pH]

2. I've used DME, honey or candy sugar to easily make 9-10% ABV beers.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:13 PM   #1645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obliviousbrew View Post
You don't need to buy an extra burner for your sparge water the most water I've used were 11 liters when using the large malt pipe that can easily fit in one or two pots and heat it in your kitchen, also I don't see a reason why you can't preheat water and save it. About this think that you need to keep the water temp for almost two hours but with a good insulated container can be done.
You can make bigger beers with the braumeister longer boils or double mash or both, user Soviet mentioned a 1.093 wort by doing an overnight mash and 3 hour boil. One mash and 70 minute boil got me 1.075 wort two weeks ago... its a little trickier to make bigger beers but I don't brew big beers very often otherwise I'll be wasted 24/7
I'm not sure I'd ever sparge, it just struck me as being overly complicated to have a second heating source. A large part of the attraction of this unit is it keeps everything simple. Why would I want to make it more difficult by adding more stuff?

I did see the post by Soviet. I think the idea of doing an overnight mash is really interesting, but I'd have to read up more on that before I attempted such a thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sj_engr View Post
1. I lift my malt pipe and let is drain as I activate the boil. After a bit I press the grains with my mash paddle. Using this method I've got 82% efficiency. I recently grabbed a "hot pot" (Sharper Image brand from Tuesday morning ~$50) that holds approx 2L of water at 170*. Using that to re-hydrate the grains and press with paddle again I get approx ~85-90% efficiency. [btw I use latic acid to adjust mash pH]

2. I've used DME, honey or candy sugar to easily make 9-10% ABV beers.
I would probably just end up using DME as you said. I really don't have much interest in doing a lot of big beers, I just want to have the option to do one if the mood ever strikes. I'm perfectly ok with boiling down to about 3 gallons (12L or so) to get a more concentrated wort if I do make a big beer, I just wanted to make sure that the water level is still high enough to cover the heating element. I would not be comfortable boiling down to the point the element is exposed to air.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:38 PM   #1646
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I was expecting my effeciency would be around 1.045-1.050 (came in around 1.038). I think this was due to my grain crush being a little large.
perhaps try stirring the mash a few times during pump breaks, many people (myself included) have noted an increase in efficiency doing this, especially when the malt pipe is very full. pause it by pressing the up and down buttons, when it has a pump break, open, turn and stir for a minute, close it back up, restart. efficiency, to be pedantic, is the % of the potential extractable sugars in the grain that you extract. 1.038 is your gravity (i assume your post-boil reading, so original gravity)
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:40 PM   #1647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinnerstick

perhaps try stirring the mash a few times during pump breaks, many people (myself included) have noted an increase in efficiency doing this, especially when the malt pipe is very full. pause it by pressing the up and down buttons, when it has a pump break, open, turn and stir for a minute, close it back up, restart. efficiency, to be pedantic, is the % of the potential extractable sugars in the grain that you extract. 1.038 is your gravity (i assume your post-boil reading, so original gravity)
Agree I do the same thing
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:06 AM   #1648
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Searched through thread and couldn't locate a post. Has anyone tried to brew a large quantity from the 50L? (not big beer in OG but big size)

Seems there is tons of room in the vessel to top up to 80L or so. Eying a brewhemoth so trying to see if I could get 20G batch from the Braumeister. Seems like it would be possible using DME as long as math was done to scale everything up after the all grain mash.

Already bought a heatstick from amazon to aid to boiling power.

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Old 09-05-2012, 12:13 AM   #1649
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Default Report: DFH 90 Min IPA Clone

I just got back from a great Labor day weekend with my BFF (not sure guys have best friends forever, I figure it’s a Paris Hilton kind of thing)
But anyway I will change that to “My Best Beer Drinking Buddy”, BBDB.
It was his birthday and I brewed the clone for the occasion. I made a few mistakes along the way. The one mistake that worried me the most came at the end of the process. Of which I will now have to reproduce due to the fact that my brew was a big hit, even for the folks that normally don’t drink IPA’s. I transferred the beer to the keg and gave it what I thought was a good shot of Co2 and some dark sugar for natural carbonation. I then left for three weeks to visit family in Wyoming. I figured the longer I can leave the beer for conditioning the better. When I got home I wanted to check out how much carbonation had taken place. I lifted the relief valve slightly on the keg and it hissed for less than a half a second. Oh my god the beer didn’t produce any carbonation and what’s the deal with the Co2 I put into the keg before I left. (I had unhooked the Co2 line.) I looked at my gauge and realized I had a problem. The pressure gauge showing the amount of Co2 in the bottle was pegged out at maximum and the other gauge showed zero pressure available for the keg. I’m thinking, I just spent a seven weeks making a load of crap beer. I have to taste it to see just how bad it really is. I don’t want to show up with junk beer. I have a nitrogen setup, so I hooked it up and gave it a good shot, shook the keg around a bit and left it for a while. My curiosity got the better of me, I could only stand to let it sit for about twenty minutes. I opened the tap and got a glass of foam, “ok, just let it settle out….patience” I put the glass in the freezer for fifteen minutes, pulled it out and gave it a sniff. MMMM smells good, …Wow it tasted great. The Nitrogen really brought out the malt, the hops came in great at the end, and the creamy foam from the last sip in the glass was amazing. So I guess the moral of the story is, not all mistakes are bad and don’t forget to try some nitrogen, it’s not just for Guinness.
We tried a comparison with a bottle of the original DFH 90 min IPA. Mine was a little sweeter and of course creamier due to the nitro, the color was slightly darker because of the double mash. All in all, pretty damn close to the real thing. I can’t wait to brew it again. The keg lasted perfectly for the three day weekend, ending with the last glass going to my BBDB. Mission accomplished.
Many thanks to all Braumeister’s
sharpfish-head-90-minute-ipa-2.jpg

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Old 09-07-2012, 03:09 PM   #1650
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Said and done! Got the malt pipe drilled at a friends CNC workshop, ten 12mm holes 12,5cm (5 inches) from the top, and also got a new distance sleeve. I'll be doing a test run monday or tuesday when I get a fermenter free. Really have my hopes up that I finally will be able to brew a high gravity wort, without double mashes, boiling for hours, DME or or other playing around.



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