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Old 08-26-2012, 09:23 PM   #1631
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I now been juggling with the idea of having the 50l malt pipe cut down so it would fit about 10kg of grain. My only worry is if there is going to be enough water to rinse through the malt bed if I, lets say made a 20 litre batch with 9kg malt using ruffly 32 litres of brewing water?

A change in plans. Got this idea from a fellow member on a finnish homebrew forum, that instead of cutting the malt pipe, i'm just gonna drill about ten half inch holes in the side of the pipe. That way I don't have to make new lifting bolts, and if I sometime in the future want to make a 50 l batch, I can just plug the holes with bolts and nuts.

Calculated that 9kg of malt for a 20l batch would make about a 9.8 ABV wort at 70% effiency. So I just filled the 50l malt pipe with 10kg (22lbs) of malt, put in the upper plate and measured at what height to drill the holes (5 inches from the top that is). The only thing that still worries me is if I'm going to have enough brewing water with such small batch size and large grain bill, so that the heating coils won't be partially running dry. That's why I'm gonna do a "no sparge" for my first attempt, just in case.

I'll report back with some pictures on how the brew went. It should either be a success or a total f*#c up.


And NO, I don't wanna do double mashes. Just want to get a high gravity wort (1.100) with a 60 min single infusion mash. Is that really too much to ask for?


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Old 08-27-2012, 05:29 AM   #1632
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Originally Posted by Batfink View Post
A change in plans. Got this idea from a fellow member on a finnish homebrew forum, that instead of cutting the malt pipe, i'm just gonna drill about ten half inch holes in the side of the pipe. That way I don't have to make new lifting bolts, and if I sometime in the future want to make a 50 l batch, I can just plug the holes with bolts and nuts.
a couple of thoughts...

I wonder if you might need to cut a custom length pipe/spacer to keep the top mash screen/sieve below the level of the holes to keep the grain escaping when the pressure inevitably pushes the mash up, thereby raising the screens as well.

I also wonder if slits cut into the sides might make more sense. Maybe use a cut off tool or angle grinder to make them every 1/2" or so, maybe at 45 degrees to the X axis of the pipe, spiral like, if you catch my geometry. You could use something like a Silpat (the big commercial baker kind) wrapped around the interior to keep the seal intact when doing 50l batches. Just wrap in and fill the pipe to keep it in place...less troublesome than bolts and whatnot.

or maybe I'm off base with the concept?


@Yambor: yeah! looking forward to your triumphant return and accompanying videos!




edit: on second thought, maybe every inch or so is better, don't want to compromise the integrity of the pipe itself...


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Old 08-27-2012, 02:01 PM   #1633
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a couple of thoughts...

I wonder if you might need to cut a custom length pipe/spacer to keep the top mash screen/sieve below the level of the holes to keep the grain escaping when the pressure inevitably pushes the mash up, thereby raising the screens as well.
Yes it's exactly what I'm going to do. Tought I'd cut a new distance sleeve - or whatever it's called - from a stainless steel pipe to a lenght so that the upper plate stays about half an inch below the holes. Used 10kg of malt for measuring so that there still will be some room left for the upper plate to move with a 8-9 kg grain bill. When mashing over 6kg with the smaller malt pipe, you have to use some force to get the wing nut screwed on, and the mash becomes really tight, which probably decreases efficiency.


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I also wonder if slits cut into the sides might make more sense. Maybe use a cut off tool or angle grinder to make them every 1/2" or so, maybe at 45 degrees to the X axis of the pipe, spiral like, if you catch my geometry. You could use something like a Silpat (the big commercial baker kind) wrapped around the interior to keep the seal intact when doing 50l batches. Just wrap in and fill the pipe to keep it in place...less troublesome than bolts and whatnot.
With the tools I got, I think I'm gonna stick with the holes, but I can see your vision.

Does anyone by the way have an estimate of the flow rate for the 50l BM? Just wondering if 10 half inch holes will be enough to create a good flow.
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #1634
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Wait so you're going to cut the 50L pipe so you can brew high gravity 5G batches? (tried to read back a few pages but missed the purpose of slicing up the malt pipe)

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Old 08-28-2012, 03:58 AM   #1635
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I just used mine for the first time last weekend. It was awesome to use and very easy. The only problem I had was that my control panel never got above 95C, even though there was a mild boil. I am not sure if it's because I live at 4,000 ft or something is wrong with the control panel. Not a huge detriment as the mash temps were hit and the boil was actually going. All in all, I am very happy with it.
95.7 for 4000 feet is spot on.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:30 AM   #1636
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Wait so you're going to cut the 50L pipe so you can brew high gravity 5G batches? (tried to read back a few pages but missed the purpose of slicing up the malt pipe)
Yes, because the 20l malt pipe won't fit enough grain, and the large pipe is to high to get proper circulation with the amount of water needed for a high gravity 5 G batch. That's why I'm gonna drill holes 5 inches from the top of the malt pipe. That way I can fit around 8-9kg of malt and the wort will be running out through the holes.
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:14 AM   #1637
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Couldn't you just add less water and use the 50L malt pipe as-is for 5G end batch? Guessing you would have extended boil since need min amount to not run pumps dry. Have you checked?

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Old 08-29-2012, 04:49 AM   #1638
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Couldn't you just add less water and use the 50L malt pipe as-is for 5G end batch? Guessing you would have extended boil since need min amount to not run pumps dry. Have you checked?
Here's a post from someone who tried this very thing:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/speidel-braumeister-brewmaster-229225/index158.html#post4271765

Robert
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:07 PM   #1639
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First Brew-

Overall went very well. I had planned on 5 or 6 hours...ended up taking around 10. First problem was when I was cleaning the SB for the brew I realized it didn't have the nozzle/sprout...so ran to Home Depot and made one.

Also create an immersion chiller with ice slush solution that worked great (used a pond pump).

I was expecting my effeciency would be around 1.045-1.050 (came in around 1.038). I think this was due to my grain crush being a little large.

Machine worked perfectly the entire time...had a really nice boil.

Had a great time doing it can't wait for next run at this. Biggest problem was I started drinking beer about 4 hours into brew thinking I should be done in a few hours....so by the time I got to the 10th hour I was rather intoxicated.

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Old 08-30-2012, 04:55 PM   #1640
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Hi all!

After reading over this thread for the last couple days, I have to say I am really jonesing for one of these systems. Unfortunately, I have to pay for a wedding before I can even consider buying it, but one day ... one day...

In the mean time, I have two questions:
1. It seems that a fair number of you sparge your malt tube. It is often mentioned that you "need another burner" to achieve this. Is there some reason you can't heat the water up in the Braumeister using manual mode, drain it into an insulated cooler, and hold onto it until sparge time? This would be easier in my mind and not require a second heat source. I haven't seen any mention of anyone doing this.

2. There's a lot of talk of not being able to do big beers on this system, especially on the 20L model. While I understand this isn't an acceptable option for some, is there any reason you can't do an extra long boil to concentrate your wort? Doing some quick math, it would seem that you could load the unit up with about 13 lbs of grain and boil down to about 3 gals and have a 1.110 wort. Would boiling for that long hurt the unit or beer somehow that I'm not aware of?



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