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Old 08-09-2012, 02:26 AM   #1601
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PM sent.

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Old 08-11-2012, 02:39 AM   #1602
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I've used the hood on my 50L for every brew to date and have only had the threat of boil over problems with higher gravity recipes using the full capacity of the BM. Pretty satisfied with how it works out. I followed the lead of others here on the forums and use a high draw duct fan and a length of foil/wire ducting from the hood to vent the excess steam and heat out of my brewcave. If I don't it starts to rain from condensation about 40 minutes into the boil! I do believe my evap rate is higher as a result.

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Old 08-12-2012, 09:39 AM   #1603
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I'v now brewed 6 batches with my 50l BM using the 20l malt pipe, and the only thing that's been giving me some headache, except for my great beers, is how to brew higher gravity beers. Managed to get up to 1.082 on an Imperial Stout by stuffing the malt pipe with 6.3kg of grain and a two hour boil, but still wasn't satisfied, because obviously with that amount of grain the efficency suffers. Since I probably won't be doing any 50l batches anyway, I now been juggling with the idea of having the 50l malt pipe cut down so it would fit about 10kg of grain. My only worry is if there is going to be enough water to rinse through the malt bed if I, lets say made a 20 litre batch with 9kg malt using ruffly 32 litres of brewing water?

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Old 08-13-2012, 07:11 PM   #1604
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Default Braumeister Double Mash?

Batfink,

Why don't you consider a double mash? That's what I'll do when I want a high gravity beer using a single sacch' Rest.

The only problem I can see is if you need a multi-step mash schedule. The starting temp of the second mash would be too high.

I'm wondering whether that could be solved by lowering the initial mash water volume, reducing the first mash sparge/rinse water, and topping up with ice cubes/water to get down to the lowest rest temperature required for the start of the second mash.

"pH5.2 Stabilizer" would maintain the pH if that's bothering you - maybe added at the start of each mash?

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Old 08-13-2012, 11:17 PM   #1605
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I can't add to the info on the high grav side of things, but i have brewed a 32/33 litre batch in the 50l, with 8.2kg of grain and it is sufficient water to rinse the bed. i did a 75 min boil and it wound out to about 28l

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Old 08-13-2012, 11:18 PM   #1606
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and that was with the standard 50l pipe

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Old 08-18-2012, 05:52 PM   #1607
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I always thought that after I put my top plate on and screwed it down with the wing nut that I should tighten as little as possible so the grain wouldnt be compacted and would help with circulation. Wrong. Tightening it as much as possible improves the flow over the malt pipe big time. I'm sure it will improve my efficiency.

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Old 08-18-2012, 05:57 PM   #1608
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First time ever seeing the bottom rods when recirculating.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:12 PM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batfink View Post
Managed to get up to 1.082 on an Imperial Stout by stuffing the malt pipe with 6.3kg of grain and a two hour boil, but still wasn't satisfied, because obviously with that amount of grain the efficency suffers.
If you got 1.082 out of 6.3kg (13.86lbs) with a 20L (5.3g) batch size; you had ~ 86% brew house efficiency. I wouldn't quite say your efficiency is "suffering" lol.
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:01 AM   #1610
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Quote:
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If you got 1.082 out of 6.3kg (13.86lbs) with a 20L (5.3g) batch size; you had ~ 86% brew house efficiency. I wouldn't quite say your efficiency is "suffering" lol.
I only got 17l (4.5g) into the fermentor on that brew and Brewmate calculates a 70% brewhouse efficiency.

Seems lika as soon as you go over 5kg (11lbs) grain in a recipe, your effiency starts dropping down to the lower 70s.

I think I just might go for it and fill the 50l maltpipe with 10kg (22lbs) of grain to make a mark on where to cut it, and then go wild with the grinder. Don't think the lap at the top of the pipe is that necessary? Just have to make new lifting bolts by drilling holes and using threaded rod and nuts to create new ones. And of course a longer distance sleeve is needed.
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