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03-02-2012, 01:10 AM
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#1291
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: milford, ma
Posts: 340
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BierFest
I too have the 50l unit with the shortened malt pipe. I use beersmith and am also trying to nail down the parameters. As I've only done 3 brews to date on it I'm still figuring it out. I haven't quite figured out stuff such as boil off rate etc. I have created 2 profiles:
- 50l brew
- 20l brew
To date i have only made 20l batches. I have used the parameters supplied by other users for the 20l model in my 20l profile. The only thing i changed was the 'Mash Tun Weight' which I set to 22kg. I will have to figure it out more from that.
Anybody else figured out beersmith parameters for the shortened malt pipe in the 50l model?
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There is a setup profile for the 20l in the beersmith forums
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03-02-2012, 09:06 AM
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#1292
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Verae amicitiae sempiternae sunt.
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Benidorm, Alicante/Spain
Posts: 1,555
Liked 213 Times on 150 Posts Likes Given: 164
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@Bierfest and @Rowlus. Thank you for your replies, I´ve check the profiles on the beersmith forums. It seems like a work in progress I think I just have to play a little with it: it´s a great software but I still have to get used to it and check if it does the job for me to get the full version. I originally tought that the shortened malt pipe was somehow bigger than the malt pipe in the 20l version. All the sites that I´ve seen advertise the short malt pipe to make 25l batches and the 20l unit well for 20l 
I think I was wrong about this. I´ll just have to use a little less water than in my previous calculations.
Anyone has any comments to share about this?
Last edited by Obliviousbrew; 03-02-2012 at 09:12 AM.
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03-02-2012, 01:47 PM
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#1293
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Alchemy Fermentations
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: vernon, ct
Posts: 331
Liked 9 Times on 7 Posts Likes Given: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveKaiBrewing
What up buddy i started this thread a while ago so i guess i was one of the first guys with this machine. just buy a voltage converter man. so easy and you can brew anywhere you want.
as far as the condensation question i dont think it will be a sticky mess since when you boil you are loosing water while all sugars and stuff just stay in the wort. it should just be steam sugar wont evaporate.
good luck on your brewing this machine is really great.
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Thanks mate, i think you replied to my pm after i wrote these questions and made up my mind on going with a voltage converter. Then i can brew inside, outside, at a friends house whatever.
Thank you for the reply about the steam venting too, i think when i brew inside i will just use the dryer vent somehow as it vents to the backside of the apartment by the woods instead of venting into the parking lot and freaking out all of my neighbors 
__________________
Future Brews Graff! - is it beer? is it cider?! is it GOOD?! we will see.
Primary Cherry Apple Wine, White Grape Peach Mango Mead (the mead baby)
Secondary Bog Monster Cranberry Grape Melomel the 2nd
Bottled Bog Monster Cranberry Grape Melomel, Grape Burn and Pillage Pyment
Kegged A Dark Ale w/No Name, Tosh's Cinnamon Challenge Cider, Carabou Slobber
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03-02-2012, 05:35 PM
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#1294
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: San Francisco, California
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bach
Yes it is SS9007 12-8
The BM side of the nipple is the 3/4" BSPP/ISO (british standard pipe parallel) and the ball valve side is the 1/2" NPT
My reason was to eliminate any parts, which would be restricting the
flow, since I recirculate and whirlpool.
It works great.
It is pricey - I paid $65 at local distributor
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According to Adapt All, the manufacturer of this particular part, Fastenal carries their line and this will probably require a special order. They fellow I spoke with at Adapt All also told me they have less than 6 in stock in the factory warehouse. One less, since I ordered it yesterday.
http://www.fastenal.com
A company called Advanced Pressure Fittings might also manufacture a similar part.

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03-04-2012, 07:41 PM
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#1295
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: rossland, bc
Posts: 167
Liked 6 Times on 3 Posts
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Do you guys stir wort after pumps shut off before the boil?
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03-05-2012, 06:08 AM
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#1296
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: ohmihachiman, Japan
Posts: 534
Liked 32 Times on 23 Posts Likes Given: 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beradthefish
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Question on the spigot mod. Is that a 1/2" ball valve? thanks.
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Tempest Bebende!
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03-05-2012, 02:22 PM
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#1297
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Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbia, South Carolina
Posts: 84
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by tektonjp
Question on the spigot mod. Is that a 1/2" ball valve? thanks.
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Yes it is.
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03-06-2012, 03:08 PM
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#1298
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 69
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts Likes Given: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcryan
Do you guys stir wort after pumps shut off before the boil?
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I don't, what do you achieve by doing that?
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03-06-2012, 05:53 PM
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#1299
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: rossland, bc
Posts: 167
Liked 6 Times on 3 Posts
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I was always taught with my old propane set up to stir lots before the boil started because the wort could burn. I was wondering if it was the same for the braumeister.
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03-07-2012, 04:07 AM
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#1300
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 126
Liked 15 Times on 13 Posts
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Received my braumeister today. Still waiting on the insulation jacket and shorter maltpipe. Had my electrician buddy wire up my basement for it and we rewired the plug. I'll post some photos shortly, but wanted to ask:
1. I'm thinking about doing some mods... if I do the diptube mod, I want to be able to whirlpool the wort so I'm getting all the trub in the center. The copper tube from previous posts looked like it had some soldering or welding done to it. I'm not a plumber and I don't think I even have the tools to cut copper. Am I SOL on that particular mod?
2. For the whirlpool, it seems like I'd be better off buying a march pump and recirculating back into the kettle along the side wall to get any sort of decent whirlpool. Nobody has been able to achieve a good whirlpool using The Braumeister's built in pump, by modding the pump inlet by angling it off with a copper tube, right?
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