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Old 04-14-2011, 12:26 PM   #111
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Here is the pump config for the 200L, that is what I'll be emulating in my build. Maybe this will give you an idea of how to configure things if you decide to go this route?

File Type: bmp kettle_pump_configuration.bmp (171.4 KB, 6232 views)
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 04-14-2011, 01:03 PM   #112
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My dip tube is made from 1/2" copper pipe. The part that fits into the kettle hole is a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. On the 3/8" end I put a small piece of silicon tubing which makes a very tight fit. The whole thing just barely fits between the heating elements and the malt pipe. It probably cost a $1 to make. You should be able to fashion something similar. I think plumbing into the pump fittings would be quite a difficult project.

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Old 04-14-2011, 02:44 PM   #113
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My dip tube is made from 1/2" copper pipe. The part that fits into the kettle hole is a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer. On the 3/8" end I put a small piece of silicon tubing which makes a very tight fit. The whole thing just barely fits between the heating elements and the malt pipe. It probably cost a $1 to make. You should be able to fashion something similar. I think plumbing into the pump fittings would be quite a difficult project.
Yeah, its a great idea in theory, but I don't want to munk with any of that just yet. I'll see what I can come up with. Thanks.
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:11 AM   #114
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Curious...it doesn't matter that the element is touching itself?

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Old 04-15-2011, 12:24 PM   #115
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Curious...it doesn't matter that the element is touching itself?
If the element is a low enough watt-density then it won't really matter, most of the water heater elements we use would have an issue with that. If it's touching itself already then I wouldn't worry too much about moving a coil out of the way to install a dip-tube. Heck, if you can slightly bend it so it's not touching itself in the process then that is a plus in my mind as well.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:00 PM   #116
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It shouldn't matter if the coils touch. The resistive wire is usually encased in porcelain which is then encased in usually a nickel chromium metal. Higher quality ones like on a stove top can operate exposed to air and not self destruct. Others used for water heaters must be submerged. If there was live current on the outside of the coils we would get quite a shock if we touched the water as it warmed or even the pot itself. The only concern I can think of is that the combined heat of the two elements touching might compromise the exterior coating and cause one of the coils to fail sooner. One of my coils touches quite firmly to the vertical leg that goes into the bottom of the pot.

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Old 04-16-2011, 05:24 PM   #117
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Next time I will check to see if I can program 102C in auto, like I could in manual mode. It made a huge difference in the quality of the boil.
Yes, you can.
When programming the mash the last two steps are the duration and temperature of the boil "boiling hops". I allways set it at 102 to maintain a constant boil.


Sparging is not very well covered in the manual. I have started to adjust my amount of mash-in water in the speidel such that I can allways sparge with 9.5 liters of water to achieve my preboil volume of 28 liters (90 min boil for 22 liters of finished wort). I chose 9.5 liters because I have a pot that holds just that and heat it on the kitchen stove. I pour that water through the malt pipe as fast as it will drain through the malt and it doesn't really take that long. The efficiencies on the last couple of brews have been very consistent around 78-80%. I have the machine start for the boil while sparging.
One problem with this amount of sparging is that the wort will fill the kettle up a few cm higher than the bottom of the malt pipe so I've been resting the malt pipe on two pieces of 1 1/2" x 3" timber instead of the stainless thingy designed for the purpose.

The stainless filter screen must be a recent upgrade to the machine. I've had my 20-liter for about six months and it came fith the cloth filters. I'll give my dealer a call and buy the stainless ones as the cloth filter in the bottom is a PITA because it's floating and needs to be stiched to the perforated plate with pieces of wire or weighted down somehow. Some brewers use a lenght of stainless chain for the purpose.

Great idea with the copper fittings for a dip-tube!
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #118
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There do appear to be heating issues with this unit, enough so that Speidels sells an accessory insulating jacket, and I saw at least one other video on YT with someone using a homemade insulating blanket. It's not that one can't DIY this (I did it to my boil kettle when I went AG, and it was a definite improvement),but it suggests that the Braumeister might be a bit underpowered.

BTW, the great information just keeps coming on the Braumeister....keep those posts coming!

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-A. E. Housman (1859–1936). A Shropshire Lad , 1896.

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Old 04-16-2011, 06:04 PM   #119
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2.5 or 3 kW wouldn't hurt for the 20-liter. But with the insulating jacket 2kW is enough. Just remember to set the setpoint at 101 or 102 to prevent the element from shutting off as soon as it reaches boiling.

Just a thought but one simple reason for the small unit being just 2kW might be that they designed it to be used in anyones (european) kitchen on an accessory outlet that often has only a 10A (220V) breaker. The 50-l is not underpowered but needs a 16A breaker which is less common to have everywhere around the house.

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Old 04-16-2011, 07:08 PM   #120
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Beefeater, thank you for coming on board. I think I recognized your name from a forum read from Norway. (had it translated by google).. It was information from that forum that made me purchase the Braumeister. That's great I can adjust the boil temp in auto. I'll be brewing tomorrow and intend to do that. I also sparged by slowly pouring the hot liquor on top of the screen. I didn't get the boil-off I expected but now boiling at the higher temp I should get the finish volume I expect.

This is the simple diptube:
diptube..jpg

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