Originally Posted by hfk2
Next time I will check to see if I can program 102C in auto, like I could in manual mode. It made a huge difference in the quality of the boil.
Yes, you can.
When programming the mash the last two steps are the duration and temperature of the boil "boiling hops". I allways set it at 102 to maintain a constant boil.
Sparging is not very well covered in the manual. I have started to adjust my amount of mash-in water in the speidel such that I can allways sparge with 9.5 liters of water to achieve my preboil volume of 28 liters (90 min boil for 22 liters of finished wort). I chose 9.5 liters because I have a pot that holds just that and heat it on the kitchen stove. I pour that water through the malt pipe as fast as it will drain through the malt and it doesn't really take that long. The efficiencies on the last couple of brews have been very consistent around 78-80%. I have the machine start for the boil while sparging.
One problem with this amount of sparging is that the wort will fill the kettle up a few cm higher than the bottom of the malt pipe so I've been resting the malt pipe on two pieces of 1 1/2" x 3" timber instead of the stainless thingy designed for the purpose.
The stainless filter screen must be a recent upgrade to the machine. I've had my 20-liter for about six months and it came fith the cloth filters. I'll give my dealer a call and buy the stainless ones as the cloth filter in the bottom is a PITA because it's floating and needs to be stiched to the perforated plate with pieces of wire or weighted down somehow. Some brewers use a lenght of stainless chain for the purpose.
Great idea with the copper fittings for a dip-tube!